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Old 11-20-2015, 09:57 AM   #8776
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any plans on a new 3.0 with big changes soon,Everyone that is competitive is going with the new 410.3 at most tracks ive been too. Why is losi coming out with new models for other models and leaving the sct the same for so long?
The 2.0 is not that old. TLR has recently released the new center drive shafts and the 22 shocks. They are not ignoring the platform and the SCTE is still at the top of the heap IMO. That class is basically a two horse race between TLR and Tekno. Guys will switch back and forth as the new truck comes out but at least here in So Cal when guys try the latest Tekno they seem to always come back home.
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Old 11-20-2015, 12:24 PM   #8777
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The 2.0 is not that old. TLR has recently released the new center drive shafts and the 22 shocks. They are not ignoring the platform and the SCTE is still at the top of the heap IMO. That class is basically a two horse race between TLR and Tekno. Guys will switch back and forth as the new truck comes out but at least here in So Cal when guys try the latest Tekno they seem to always come back home.
If you actually look at the truck it was a little ahead of its time. It's a proven chassis that keeps working. Could TLR change the chassis a little and add all of the upgrades put it in a new box and call it a 3.0? Sure, but why would they. They got this truck right the first time and it's going to be hard to improve on it a whole lot.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:00 PM   #8778
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If you actually look at the truck it was a little ahead of its time. It's a proven chassis that keeps working. Could TLR change the chassis a little and add all of the upgrades put it in a new box and call it a 3.0? Sure, but why would they. They got this truck right the first time and it's going to be hard to improve on it a whole lot.
I would imagine the 3.0 being just the same except with 4 bolt vertical diff access.
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:35 PM   #8779
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that could be said of most high tech rc cars out today,yet most other cars find faster setups and make those changes every yr. I love losi cars,and im sure the pros and semi pros can make anything fast but the changes that have happened with tekno are hard to ignore,im finally trying the .3 now,Ive found between .5 to 1 second per lap consistently with it. I went from a stock 2.0 to a mip conversion and picked up a little speed with a tin of dremel work on the front end for steering. went to the tekno.3 and gained double that in a week of running it bone stock.surprised me really. I dont usually care for heavy sc type vehicles. The tekno is pretty expensive with you factor in all the things the 2.0 comes with,metal shock parts,carbon towers,billet pin holders ect ect.
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:56 AM   #8780
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Default Is it time for a new SCTE Truck

I have noticed the improvements made on the SCTE truck in the last few years. They go unnoticed if you didn't own the older versions or didn't keep one long enough to wrench on it often.

A few improvements on the 2.0 stand out to me.

- HD diff case with molded inserts, better diff screws and thicker diff gasket
- Graphite shock towers with more camber rod location options
- HD and lighten out drives
- Harden shock bodies
- Aluminum shock caps with emulsion bleed screw
- Improved pivot balls, even though they inherited the sloppy fit
- chassis with battery location options, better balance
- Harden black machined ring and pinion gears for front and rear diffs

I do think its time to offer a Professional Racer Kit version of the truck. Call it the SCTE 2.0 PRO. Yes it will cost more, but all the goodies up front cost less than adding them later. Many racers would pay extra up front knowing nothing else would be needed. Folks on a budget could still buy the standard 2.0 kit and buy the upgrades over time.

The new 2.0 PRO should include every TLR upgrade part available along with some vendor parts to make at least four improvements before release.

My thoughts on Vendor parts needed:

1. Add HD diff washers/shims like the X-Ray washers. They greatly enhance longevity of diffs to include diff gears and seals. They also greatly reduce outdrive wobble.

2. A ball bearing ackerman plate such as the Vision Racing carbon graphite version takes slop out of the steering.

3. 6.8mm steel balls for all rod ends. They fit the stock plastic rod ends just right and last a year or two. They weigh more, but last and last.

4. Chassis braces/stiffeners such as the MIP eliminate the plastic rod ends that do fail on large track crashes.

Here is a list of Losi and TLR items that should be added to the new 2.0 PRO Kit:

- Shock Conversion Set, SCTE to 22: SCTE 2.0 [ TLR334029 ]

- Team Losi Racing TEN-SCTE 2.0 Center Dogbone Driveline Set [TLR332015]

- Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set (2) [TLR3100]

- Team Losi Racing Aluminum 15 Degree Front Spindle Carrier (+2mm) [TLR334017] To get the most from these spindle carriers you will need Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft & Lightened Outdrive Set [TKR2210X]

- Team Losi Racing SCTE Aluminum Rear Hex Set (+0.5mm Width) [TLR332014] Tuning parts

- Losi Aluminum Rear Hub Set [LOSB2130]

- Losi Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Ten-T) [LOSB2222] Tuning part

- Team Losi Racing Carbon Battery Strap [TLR331006]

There might be a few others, but this was what came to mind about parts that should be in the SCTE 2.0 PRO Kit. That is, if it is ever released.

Hope your listening Santa. I know what I want for Christmas

Last edited by Thunder Trail; 10-03-2016 at 02:13 AM.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:24 PM   #8781
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any plans on a new 3.0 with big changes soon,Everyone that is competitive is going with the new 410.3 at most tracks ive been too. Why is losi coming out with new models for other models and leaving the sct the same for so long?
These types of comments always crack me up.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:31 AM   #8782
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any plans on a new 3.0 with big changes soon,Everyone that is competitive is going with the new 410.3 at most tracks ive been too. Why is losi coming out with new models for other models and leaving the sct the same for so long?
Well, we are still the reigning National champion in the class. This was with stock off the shelf parts. That being said, many people like to try out the latest stuff in this hobby. There is no longer any brand loyalty and even if something works extremely well, if its been out for a bit, it must be slower (thats the mentality). We are always working on things and have some ideas of course so you just never know.

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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
that could be said of most high tech rc cars out today,yet most other cars find faster setups and make those changes every yr. I love losi cars,and im sure the pros and semi pros can make anything fast but the changes that have happened with tekno are hard to ignore,im finally trying the .3 now,Ive found between .5 to 1 second per lap consistently with it. I went from a stock 2.0 to a mip conversion and picked up a little speed with a tin of dremel work on the front end for steering. went to the tekno.3 and gained double that in a week of running it bone stock.surprised me really. I dont usually care for heavy sc type vehicles. The tekno is pretty expensive with you factor in all the things the 2.0 comes with,metal shock parts,carbon towers,billet pin holders ect ect.
I guess the question I would always ask is, how old was your SCTE versus going to a brand new 410.3? A lot of time, tenths of seconds come from newness just as much as chassis layout. This is why you always see the pros with newer cars or highly refreshed rides. We did see that we needed more steering throw in our vehicle and this is why the 15 deg alum caster blocks exist among other reasons. They changed a LOT of stuff for the front end with one part. More camber, more steering throw, more dogbone plunge. I have personally tried a very well setup 410.3 to a very well setup SCTE and I can tell you, I am faster with an SCTE. But these were both fairly new builds and both tuned into the track.
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:33 PM   #8783
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I tried the tlr 15 deg alum castors,It drove a lil better but one bent pretty easy in a crash and the truck was switched to integy alum casters and spindles . They are pretty nice also and more stout in a crash,allow for better articulation of steering knucles,nothing helped more than the vison short drag link and grinding on side of front diff case,and back side of A arms. Steel losi 8 2.0 buggy balls and links. On our track though the extra weight and geom of the tekno,makes it feel like it transitioning through the corners WAY more smooth,it just feels like its driving itself to some degree. It is very new,but the losi has like new xray built diffs,new pills,and A arms.tekno axles,mip shafts and everything else,kng hdz motor mounts. Ton of mods,really helped it alot,smoothed it out,quieter,tighter,but mostly way more durable,still not on the level of my newer stock tekno.It just seems alot more easy to drive for a amateur driver.bone stock out of the box,no mods and rips.They really should have made the king pin holders billet stock and. it would be solid
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:26 PM   #8784
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Just installed the new dog bone center driveshafts. I have two questions:

1. Is it normal that the set screw for the coupler on the front and rear pinion shafts to stick out as far as it does? The old style counter sunk, the new ones appear to stick out about 1/4 inch or so

2. Are the new out drives for the center diff the same as the outdrives in the front and rear diffs for the axles?
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:52 PM   #8785
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Originally Posted by 87MagnumII View Post
Just installed the new dog bone center driveshafts. I have two questions:

1. Is it normal that the set screw for the coupler on the front and rear pinion shafts to stick out as far as it does? The old style counter sunk, the new ones appear to stick out about 1/4 inch or so

2. Are the new out drives for the center diff the same as the outdrives in the front and rear diffs for the axles?
1. They are that long due to the molded cover used for CVA's. Admittedly, that probably should have been updated...

2. Yes, same as Front/Rear diff outdrives.
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Old 12-01-2015, 12:33 PM   #8786
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I tried the tlr 15 deg alum castors,It drove a lil better but one bent pretty easy in a crash and the truck was switched to integy alum casters and spindles . They are pretty nice also and more stout in a crash,allow for better articulation of steering knucles,nothing helped more than the vison short drag link and grinding on side of front diff case,and back side of A arms. Steel losi 8 2.0 buggy balls and links. On our track though the extra weight and geom of the tekno,makes it feel like it transitioning through the corners WAY more smooth,it just feels like its driving itself to some degree. It is very new,but the losi has like new xray built diffs,new pills,and A arms.tekno axles,mip shafts and everything else,kng hdz motor mounts. Ton of mods,really helped it alot,smoothed it out,quieter,tighter,but mostly way more durable,still not on the level of my newer stock tekno.It just seems alot more easy to drive for a amateur driver.bone stock out of the box,no mods and rips.They really should have made the king pin holders billet stock and. it would be solid
We did update the aluminum castor blocks some time back as well. They are pretty darn strong now.
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Old 12-01-2015, 01:46 PM   #8787
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Where would you benefit using aluminum 15 degree castors? Indoor, outdoor, tight technical courses, big tracks?
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:21 AM   #8788
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Where would you benefit using aluminum 15 degree castors? Indoor, outdoor, tight technical courses, big tracks?
Well, with all the changes we added into these castor blocks, they really are a benefit everywhere. We added castor which tends to make the car easier to drive overall. We then raised the spindle 2mm which helps on power steering. We also increased steering throw which helps everywhere.
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:23 AM   #8789
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Default Aluminum Caster Blocks

The good... They seem to help everywhere, but like all mods the changes in handling might not fit your driving style. I like them. I would say my truck gets more traction on corner exit and turns better. I just like how my truck drives with them. Many parts we buy do little or nothing to improve handling. These hubs make a notable change that can be realized immediately.

Now for the bad. IMO I'm a clean driver rarely needing help from a turn marshal. That said, I have bent 3 caster blocks multiple times. I did straighten them each time, but it bends easier next time. I can tell when its bent during a race because the front of the truck will sit too low and look like a broken shock. The suspension stays compressed because the bent hub binds the a arm. I get P OFF when they bend. At nearly $50 a set I would be really happy to see them made of the same material as the stock parts which never break.

So are they worth it? For most people I would say no. If you are a clean driver who doesn't crash much and can afford them, yes they are. Most people will be better off spending that money on tires and track time. If you have done that why not try them. Cost about as much as new set of quality tires and wheels.
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:40 AM   #8790
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The good... They seem to help everywhere, but like all mods the changes in handling might not fit your driving style. I like them. I would say my truck gets more traction on corner exit and turns better. I just like how my truck drives with them. Many parts we buy do little or nothing to improve handling. These hubs make a notable change that can be realized immediately.

Now for the bad. IMO I'm a clean driver rarely needing help from a turn marshal. That said, I have bent 3 caster blocks multiple times. I did straighten them each time, but it bends easier next time. I can tell when its bent during a race because the front of the truck will sit too low and look like a broken shock. The suspension stays compressed because the bent hub binds the a arm. I get P OFF when they bend. At nearly $50 a set I would be really happy to see them made of the same material as the stock parts which never break.

So are they worth it? For most people I would say no. If you are a clean driver who doesn't crash much and can afford them, yes they are. Most people will be better off spending that money on tires and track time. If you have done that why not try them. Cost about as much as new set of quality tires and wheels.
If you are having bending issues, when did you buy them? Is there anyway you can send me a picture of them where they are bending? rdunford@horizonhobby.com I would like to see which revision you have.
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