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Old 09-16-2015, 06:33 AM   #8656
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Hello Peeps. I bought another scte 2.0 to race and need some help. I use Dunfords set-up on the first page of this forum and I can not to save my life find the part number for the 22#55 shock pistons, could someone be kind enough to provide me the part number for these shock pistons,,, Thanks Millions,
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:44 AM   #8657
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Thanks hacker and josh..
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:40 PM   #8658
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you cannot get just the orings for the shocks. you will have to buy the rebuild kit unfortunately or find a metric size x-ring which is nearly impossible however I have heard Kyosho X rings fit. just go to Google and type in SCTE 2.0 explode. you will get a full exploded view of every part with its number. also search bulletproof diff on these forums and you will see a guide to using different parts for better diff rebuilds
I don't need all the other rebuild stuff. I thought there was a black o ring seal avail separately. same for diffs I don't need new housing. I already have the xray washers. I havent seen any mention of better seals for diffs ?
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:12 AM   #8659
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I don't need all the other rebuild stuff. I thought there was a black o ring seal avail separately. same for diffs I don't need new housing. I already have the xray washers. I havent seen any mention of better seals for diffs ?
I read somewhere - not sure where now, maybe the 1.0 thread - that the Amain Protek Mugen Diff O-Rings worked well. I just installed them in the center diff and they fit fine. Can't really comment yet if they are better than stock Losi ones though. Part number PTK-1001
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:10 AM   #8660
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I don't need all the other rebuild stuff. I thought there was a black o ring seal avail separately. same for diffs I don't need new housing. I already have the xray washers. I havent seen any mention of better seals for diffs ?
ProTek RC Mugen Differential O-Ring Replacement Set
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:15 PM   #8661
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Questions??

Another question I cant seem to remember...Does the kit supplied parts have you build the shocks Emulsion style?

Thanks,
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Old 09-19-2015, 01:47 AM   #8662
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Yes, at least mine was two years ago
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:29 AM   #8663
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Another question I cant seem to remember...Does the kit supplied parts have you build the shocks Emulsion style?

Thanks,
Yes 2.0 comes with Emulsion style shocks with bleeder screw caps.
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Old 09-21-2015, 04:25 PM   #8664
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Default Diff seals

Just received replacement LOSB3568 diff gaskets and the clear X seals have been replaced with black o-rings. Hope this is an improvement don't really care for the black o-rings in the 22 sct gear diff. However they do feel softer than those.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #8665
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roken.is this just the seals,not the whole hd diff?


anyone have a aftermarket part number for for shock seals for the bottom of shocks
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:55 PM   #8666
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roken.is this just the seals,not the whole hd diff?


anyone have a aftermarket part number for for shock seals for the bottom of shocks
I just buy two rebuild kits whenever i need to do a rebuild. I usually replace the plastics as well because they seem to wear out and then the shocks are more prone to leaking i've noticed.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:29 PM   #8667
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Trying to fix a friends 2.0,the steering is not giving full left articulation,the steering knuckle is hittting the ackerman before the wheels get full turn,all steering rod ends look to be equal,whats the fix for this issue?

apexracing...I have a ton extra of those parts,Im looking for just the lower seals,anyone make a aftermarket better seal?
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:49 PM   #8668
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Trying to fix a friends 2.0,the steering is not giving full left articulation,the steering knuckle is hittting the ackerman before the wheels get full turn,all steering rod ends look to be equal,whats the fix for this issue?

apexracing...I have a ton extra of those parts,Im looking for just the lower seals,anyone make a aftermarket better seal?
Just a guess, but have you had a good look at the drag link screw positions?
I would suspect if the link was secured in the wrong holes, or say one side in the correct hole and the other side in the wrong one, you might have a binding issue to one side. The short drag link should be screwed into the inner holes, while the long link would be screwed to the outer holes on the bellcranks.

Here's a illustration of the difference of the outer and inner hole positions with correctly mounted short and long drag link locations in yellow.



Also, in case of an aftermarket short link like the vision racing version shown in the picture, the left bellcrank "servo saver side" will bind if the bell crank is not shaved down with a file or dremel. Here is a pic showing what has to be done here>


Last edited by Josh L; 09-24-2015 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:11 PM   #8669
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i use the short vision racing link and have no issue,this truck im speaking of has the stock long link in the correct holes,the pictured steering rod end coming off the servo is hitting the drag link before steering lock occurs.it looks like the one pictured is hitting in the same spot by the marks on it,Ive seen this occur in alot of losi sc. The other issue in the steering end hit the side of the tranny case before full left steering stop occurs, thats a easy dremel fix, Ive tried grinding down the back side of the drag link,but it gets to thin to use before interference is solved
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:14 PM   #8670
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i use the short vision racing link and have no issue,this truck im speaking of has the stock long link in the correct holes,the pictured steering rod end coming off the servo is hitting the drag link before steering lock occurs
That is strange. Will have to look at mine and think about it for a minute

Having some pics or even better, a video would certainly help
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