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Old 08-13-2015, 08:35 AM   #8566
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I found that 5k center was causing me to balloon the front tires to much on a loose track and found a better medium in 7k.
5k center would seem right for a loose track, no? I understand how thicker center diff oil would help prevent diff unloading and front tire ballooning in general, but don't understand how this relates to a loose track... I would have thought that on lower traction, you would have more rear wheel spin and thus less chance of front wheel ballooning?

Just to say, is it possible that the center diff had leaked a bit and partially empty, thus acting like a lighter diff fluid?

Otherwise, just a caution that a heavier center diff fluid will cause push exiting corners, and will be a bit more unforgiving through rough patches. It may be better to just be a bit smoother on throttle when accelerating.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 08-13-2015, 12:41 PM   #8567
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One last question. Some people were saying earlier in the thread(or maybe a different sct thread) that running low c rated 2s batteries with these motors almost always will puff and damage the battery. Is this true? And if so what would be good C ratings? I run 90c packs but a few people I know have pretty bad luck with batteries and I'm wondering if it's from them having cheap packs that can't cut the amp draw
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:00 PM   #8568
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Pro4 trucks are extremely hard on batteries. You are right u do want a higher c rating. The problem is c rating is very misleading.there is no industry standard to measure this. As a result you may not get what you think your getting. Look up smc-racing.net. they have a very good article on c ratings.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:41 PM   #8569
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I am in 100% agreement to tune the car to you. Don't pick your favorite driver and set it and for get it but you have to start someone and and team setups tend to be great starting points. Not sure how you start from scratch? Kit setup or just "guess"?
I guess "scratch" wasn't really the right word to use.
My long history of model planes sometimes gets twisted into my model car definitions, so bare with me!
But yes, what I meant was from kit stock recommendations or at least something close, then form your own conclusions based from those results to further tune.
I personally however do like to use the no oil spring balance method first to find a good starting point, so unless I have a full spring kit to tool around with I sometimes find that the stock locations are completely different from where I will actually start from. But with that being said, I have tried the stock SCTE 2.0 built per instructions and I thought it did decent enough to be a good starting point without having to go through the entire process for someone new to everything.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:50 PM   #8570
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Originally Posted by stelio279 View Post
5k center would seem right for a loose track, no? I understand how thicker center diff oil would help prevent diff unloading and front tire ballooning in general, but don't understand how this relates to a loose track... I would have thought that on lower traction, you would have more rear wheel spin and thus less chance of front wheel ballooning?

Just to say, is it possible that the center diff had leaked a bit and partially empty, thus acting like a lighter diff fluid?

Otherwise, just a caution that a heavier center diff fluid will cause push exiting corners, and will be a bit more unforgiving through rough patches. It may be better to just be a bit smoother on throttle when accelerating.

Just my 2 cents
If your on a track that has decent jumps, your going to have a higher ride height, more droop. With one or both of these factors, you are going to see more transfer on acceleration. The rear gets the most traction on acceleration, thus with light center diff oil you will see a lot of power lost to the front if you drive aggressively to hit jumps.
The thicker fluid helps put some of that power back to the rear for me.
And yes your correct. You do get more push, so there is a trade off.
I personally drive a bit heavy fingered, so when I hit the straits I let er eat. But I also like to dive into corners and use a quick brake blip to transfer the energy to the front end and whip the rear around. So the push isn't as much of an issue as it might be for those who run more efficient.
This is why I don't really like to make suggestions to people, because it very well may not suit their style and it could just as easily hurt their intentions. But to each their own, right? I peronally like the heavier fluid and find it does better for corner exit jumps. It really will depend on a lot of things as to whats best per driver, with the track layout being a major factor etc.
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:04 PM   #8571
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Originally Posted by Turtlex View Post
One last question. Some people were saying earlier in the thread(or maybe a different sct thread) that running low c rated 2s batteries with these motors almost always will puff and damage the battery. Is this true? And if so what would be good C ratings? I run 90c packs but a few people I know have pretty bad luck with batteries and I'm wondering if it's from them having cheap packs that can't cut the amp draw
I have seen people find this out the hard way myself.
Many at my track run SMC, but I have noticed more than a few of them puffed up. Do yourself a favor and buy a good battery. I have been running protek 100C batteries and have yet to puff one of them. They are expensive, but have great resistance readouts and completely eat some of the other packs I have tried when it comes to putting a load on them with higher timing and punch.
I get a lot of grief and eye rolls when I tell people I dropped a Benjamin on a battery, but I also never have problems like some of them do and I have personally seen and felt the difference.
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:46 PM   #8572
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I have seen people find this out the hard way myself.
Many at my track run SMC, but I have noticed more than a few of them puffed up. Do yourself a favor and buy a good battery. I have been running protek 100C batteries and have yet to puff one of them. They are expensive, but have great resistance readouts and completely eat some of the other packs I have tried when it comes to putting a load on them with higher timing and punch.
I get a lot of grief and eye rolls when I tell people I dropped a Benjamin on a battery, but I also never have problems like some of them do and I have personally seen and felt the difference.
I have puffed many smc batteries!
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:04 PM   #8573
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I have never puffed a smc battery. I would say that they are the battery of choice at my track.very popular and I would put them up against any battery.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:04 PM   #8574
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I have never puffed a smc battery. I would say that they are the battery of choice at my track.very popular and I would put them up against any battery.
Yeah, I'll agree with they are highly popular, and they are prevalent in numbers at my track to. But in my experience I have to disagree with what your saying about taking on any battery. My protek has lower resistance than any SMC I have owned and it looks as good as it did when I bought it with at least 35 runs on it now an no sign of even a minute amount of swell.
SMC has decent packs that do fine for most, but it really boils down to price in my opinion as to why so many have them and stand by the claims.
C ratings being a false advertisement number or not, the proteks win in performance and over all quality. But it comes with a cost.
Further more, SMC has been out of race formula batteries for what seems like a decade now.
They say, "Stop paying to much for so-called high performance packs with fancy 90C, 100C and 150C labels" yet they have nothing to sell you unless your happy with low C standard spec batteries. I will stick to paying to much for something I can actually get my hands on.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:48 PM   #8575
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Would like to know if anyone has tried the smc 4 pole 4500 in the losi yet, chime in anyone and let me know cause i ain't got no 150 smacks to lay down on a tekin and i've heard good stuff about their batteries so just wondering about this motor too, thanks.
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:31 PM   #8576
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Would like to know if anyone has tried the smc 4 pole 4500 in the losi yet, chime in anyone and let me know cause i ain't got no 150 smacks to lay down on a tekin and i've heard good stuff about their batteries so just wondering about this motor too, thanks.
I can't speak for their motors personally, but I have seen a few and they looked like they did just fine.
Another motor to consider is the hobbywing cans.
I have a 4700 and it has some serious grunt. Hangs right with the tekin guys at my tracks and stays nice and cool.
I had people try and steer me away from them when I asked opinions about them, but it was on unfounded speculation. I did my research and went ahead and bought one. Now that I have one and have set a couple track fast lap records with it, no one has much to say to me negatively anymore.

Hobbywing 4700

You can also buy the entire ESC motor combo that includes the LCD field programmer box for less that you can buy just a tekin ESC. Crazy!

Hobbywing SCT Combo

The only think I will for warn you about is, the ESCs internal BEC is not programmable and only outputs 6v @ 3amps. This is fine for most servos, but if your like me and go with a digital HV servo, like the futaba 9352, then you will want to go ahead and either directly wire the servo red/black wires strait to the battery input cable, leaving the signal wire to the rx, or just bypass the ESC's BEC with an external BEC like the CC adjustable unit.
You have to program the CC BEC with a castle link however, but you can take it upto 7.4 @ 10amps.
Either way you will then eliminate any underpowering (steering mush) issues and reduce ESC internal resistance to keep everything cooler. I would do this with all ESCs anyhow.

Last edited by Josh L; 08-16-2015 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:08 AM   #8577
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Yeah, i've also be eyeballing that Hobbywing motor to. just came across the smc motor the other day and was just wondering how well of a motor it was.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:07 AM   #8578
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I can't speak for their motors personally, but I have seen a few and they looked like they did just fine.
Another motor to consider is the hobbywing cans.
I have a 4700 and it has some serious grunt. Hangs right with the tekin guys at my tracks and stays nice and cool.
I run the HW 4700 and its a beast. My 14 yr old son runs the Tekin, and I cant touch him, but thats him and not the motor. I out pull him down the straight w the same gearing and speedo set up. His buddy runs the SMC 4500 and he may out pull the both of us. Similar gearing, but I dont know his esc settings or temps. We all run the Gen2. For the cost, its worth a look.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:41 PM   #8579
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Their is 2 different colour Losi Rear Ring & Pinion Gear Set - LOSB3572

Which is current - Black-local HS or AMAIN Aluminum/Metal(not sure)?

Both same part numbers. Was there an update?
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:21 PM   #8580
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Their is 2 different colour Losi Rear Ring & Pinion Gear Set - LOSB3572

Which is current - Black-local HS or AMAIN
Aluminum/Metal(not sure)?

Both same part numbers. Was there an update?
yes there was an update- black one is the new one - I'm sure if u order from Amain it will be the same - they just haven't updated the pic
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