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Old 06-16-2015, 08:06 PM   #8356
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We also offer wider ones for the rear if you want them, that part number is TLR332014.
Are these hexes (the +.50 mm) actually wider or just spaced out more? I'm looking for a little more meat contacting the wheel...I've a couple wheels strip and see a couple more are looking like they're starting to go.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:34 AM   #8357
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Are these hexes (the +.50 mm) actually wider or just spaced out more? I'm looking for a little more meat contacting the wheel...I've a couple wheels strip and see a couple more are looking like they're starting to go.
The hex is wider but the hex area of the wheel is the limiting factor here as I have seen. It is critical you use a serrated nut for these cars. A std wheel nut will back off and this will ruin the wheel.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:06 PM   #8358
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I have to agree with Casper. Speaking from my experience with this truck, I have a HobbyWing 4700kv eating on a 100C battery with 5 timing and the punch settings on 6. It has more than enough grunt. But I haven't had the slightest bit of hex strip. The inner wheel hex hubs still look fine after beating the snot out of it almost daily. The most common culprit I have seen with SCT's breaking down during a race (besides lack of maintenance), is often from just loosing a wheel due to the fact they weren't tightened down enough. I would imagine if the wheels are stripping out, it's due to the fact there is just enough play still in there to allow a slip and strip like your experiencing.
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:35 PM   #8359
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My new rear ring and pinion gear arrived today. Very nice quality.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:17 AM   #8360
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My new rear ring and pinion gear arrived today. Very nice quality.
Remember to put some grease on those gears.

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Old 06-20-2015, 10:23 AM   #8361
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The hex is wider but the hex area of the wheel is the limiting factor here as I have seen. It is critical you use a serrated nut for these cars. A std wheel nut will back off and this will ruin the wheel.
Thank you. I'm aware of the need for serrated wheel nuts and checking them often. What I just found...looking at various brand wheels I have...the Associated KMC wheel (which I have the majority of my tires mounted on unfortunately) have some play, front to back, where the hex sets in. I'm sure that's why the wheel nut loosens in the first place, from the chucking back and forth. My TLR wheels are much better (less play) but my DE wheels have virtually no play at all. My AKA wheels have a LOT of play. I'm going get some DE Trinidad wheels.
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:08 AM   #8362
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Does anyone have an issue with the truck jumping nose heavy?
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:35 PM   #8363
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Does anyone have an issue with the truck jumping nose heavy?
This has been a topic of much discussion with the SCTE. It has been less a problem with the SCTE 2.0, and it will further help if you rear mount the ESC behind the battery tray. If the ESC is to large like mine, I suggest simply making a top tray like I did. That seemed to help the layout weight balance for me.

I used Kydex, a thermoform plastic generally used for holsters and knife sheaths. But any robust plastics, delrin, poly, or best yet, carbon fiber could be used. If you notice how I have the back two screw holes drilled, it will allow for moving the battery forward and still retaining the ESC most rearward placement if need be for what ever reason. If you look close you will see that the way I cut the top ESC plate so it flows into the ribbing of the rear diff case. The reasoning behind this closed ended contact is to help support the rearward over hang as well as to support the chassis as a brace would in the event of a hard impact.
The latter reasoning may be minuscule in effect, but sometimes that's what makes the difference in if you break or not.




Last edited by Josh L; 06-20-2015 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:47 PM   #8364
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Has anyone tried 16mm shocks on their 2.0 yet? Such as the tekno 410 uses. I know the 2.0 shocks are fine for most tracks, but as the power/performance increases and more people are starting to run 8th scale big jump tracks, I was considering trying it out to see if it made a significant difference. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-20-2015, 04:47 PM   #8365
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Iv'e run on a 8th scale track (Mills Pond, Ft Laud, Fl) and have had no problems with stock shocks. The 8th scale shocks wont get your ride height down so you'll be more likely to tip over.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:37 PM   #8366
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Iv'e run on a 8th scale track (Mills Pond, Ft Laud, Fl) and have had no problems with stock shocks. The 8th scale shocks wont get your ride height down so you'll be more likely to tip over.
I understand what you mean, and I wasn't trying to insinuate there is anything wrong with the losi.
But I don't quite understand what you mean about ride height. I would think that would be dictated by the spring length and collar adjustments as with any shock.
I'm just a tinkerer and in my mind if the shocks where larger, "theoretically" there should be less variance through the moment of action in regards to the compression and rebound strokes, which should increase the trucks consistency in handling. So that is why I am interested.
I guess I will just have to buy a set and test that out for myself.
The down side will be weight increase, but the upside should be as tekno explains, an increase in stability, more durability with less rebuilds and less bottoming out?....
We shall see I suppose.
I won't be surprised if a big bore option don't make it's way into the line up in the future. It would be an interesting tactic to combat the tekno, as that seems to be a selling point for them. Just my 2-cents.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:51 PM   #8367
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if the length was the same, Id say go for it. Since the weight doesn't call for it and since it doesn't jump and soar like a 1/8 scale buggy there simply is no need.

the only way to know if bigger in diameter is better is to test, but i'm talking the same spring length, etc. upside is you could run lighter oil and it would be good on ruttier conditions.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:22 PM   #8368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
if the length was the same, Id say go for it. Since the weight doesn't call for it and since it doesn't jump and soar like a 1/8 scale buggy there simply is no need.

the only way to know if bigger in diameter is better is to test, but i'm talking the same spring length, etc. upside is you could run lighter oil and it would be good on ruttier conditions.
I agree the truck would benefit in the way you mentioned with the lighter oil ability. I feel like the larger shock parts would also add a since of slop control by taking advantage of thicker parts and seals, thus reducing rebuilds and possibly any inconsistencies of the smaller variant.
Obviously this option wouldn't be as beneficial to a clay track with small jumps, but I can certainly see where it would help on the large outdoor tracks. Especially loamy home built types with cracks and ruts.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:27 PM   #8369
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Using this shock tower: http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...products_id=17

...you can put Losi 8 shocks on a SCTE and get the same droop, plus a little extra up-travel compared to the stock shocks.

There is no need to get the rear tower they make (at least I have not seen the need). I've run Losi 8 1.0/2.0 shocks on my SCTE 1.0 since 2012.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:28 PM   #8370
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I appreciate the info. I will give it a whirl and see what I think.
Is there any specifics on the setup you have? As in what spring compares to stock compression rates, etc...
And I am now curious as to whether the SC410 shocks would have better spring choices since it is already made for a SC chassis and/or if the tekno shock would just drop in place as a whole unit...

Last edited by Josh L; 06-22-2015 at 01:12 AM.
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