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Old 06-05-2015, 07:27 AM   #8326
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
If I am rebuilding the front and rear diff's should I go ahead and replace the ring and pinions? nothing is leaking or making any kind of noise right now, and they both still feel smooth, it's just that I go tthe truck used and have raced it for a year now, and have never had them apart, so I don't even know what oil is in them. Kind of on a budget and they are the most expensive things in the diff's
Ring and pinion should not wear out. I would make sure you relube the gears with a high quality gear grease like Casper-RC extreme grease or at a minimum TLR black grease. Refill the diffs with the oil of your choice for tuning and you should be good to go.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:15 AM   #8327
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Couple questions, I have an older SCTE 1.0 I got for dirt cheap(has the 2.0 shock towers, hd diff casings, and hd outdrives), wanted to make a couple mods to update it to make it a bit more competitive/reliable:
-Considering the Xtreme racing 2.0 CF chassis and converting the truck to 2.0 spec(it'll be cheaper with the xtreme racing chassis vs TLR since I wont' hafta buy the complete battery mount setup, as it's included)
-With the 2.0 setup is the King Headz Motor mount and front diff mount still necessary or helpful?
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:31 AM   #8328
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Originally Posted by captain spauldi View Post
Couple questions, I have an older SCTE 1.0 I got for dirt cheap(has the 2.0 shock towers, hd diff casings, and hd outdrives), wanted to make a couple mods to update it to make it a bit more competitive/reliable:
-Considering the Xtreme racing 2.0 CF chassis and converting the truck to 2.0 spec(it'll be cheaper with the xtreme racing chassis vs TLR since I wont' hafta buy the complete battery mount setup, as it's included)
-With the 2.0 setup is the King Headz Motor mount and front diff mount still necessary or helpful?
I run the kh mount because I use mip pucks. If you're going to stick with stock or tekno driveshafts the stock mount is fine imo. The HD diff cases take most of the play out of the outdrives so the kh stuff isn't as important as with the 1.0 diffs.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:43 AM   #8329
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I have a 2.0 and run the KH center diff support simply because I like the double bearings. And thanks for the info on th ering and pinion gears, in all reality I probably do not have to rebuild the diff's as everything is smooth, with no weird noise, I just want to get in them and make sure what it all looks like and so I can make sure exactly what oils are in them. Casper I haven't looked at the manuals yet as far as tear down and rebuild were does the grease go is the diff's are filed with oil?
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Old 06-05-2015, 11:42 AM   #8330
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I run the kh mount because I use mip pucks. If you're going to stick with stock or tekno driveshafts the stock mount is fine imo. The HD diff cases take most of the play out of the outdrives so the kh stuff isn't as important as with the 1.0 diffs.

Great, thnx for the info!
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:22 PM   #8331
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Are the diffs interchangable between the losi scte 1.0 and the losi ten-rally x 4wd? Thanks
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:48 PM   #8332
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I run the king headz on mine. Imo...they are a necessity. They take out all the slop. Money very well spent.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:06 AM   #8333
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Putting together my new 2.0. I am assembling the front axle in the spindle. Pushed the axle through the spindle but the hole in the axle for the hex doesnt push through the outside bearing. I forced the axle through and got the hex pin hole past the outside bearing but when turning the axle its super gritty. The other side is fine. Has this been addresed in earlier posts? Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:19 AM   #8334
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Putting together my new 2.0. I am assembling the front axle in the spindle. Pushed the axle through the spindle but the hole in the axle for the hex doesnt push through the outside bearing. I forced the axle through and got the hex pin hole past the outside bearing but when turning the axle its super gritty. The other side is fine. Has this been addresed in earlier posts? Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks
Someone had that problem recently. I believe the fix was to lightly sand the axle with emery cloth or light sandpaper. Just enough that the axle slides thru the bearing. Might just be a small burr so don't take too much off.
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Old 06-06-2015, 01:59 PM   #8335
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Someone had that problem recently. I believe the fix was to lightly sand the axle with emery cloth or light sandpaper. Just enough that the axle slides thru the bearing. Might just be a small burr so don't take too much off.
Thanks...
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:19 PM   #8336
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Are the diffs interchangable between the losi scte 1.0 and the losi ten-rally x 4wd? Thanks
Losi SCTE V1, V2.0, Ten-Rally, 810 Nitro, Troy Lee, Nitro SCTE, Ten T Nitro all share same diff design as well as many other parts. Might be others, but that's what I can remember without looking it up. Design has been around a long time. Most all parts interchange. Hubs, bearings, a arms, shocks, camber/steering rods, out drives and drive shafts. Ten T and 810 had different stub axles. The 2.0 HD diff cases, shock bodies, towers and other upgrade parts are better than earlier versions in any form.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:49 AM   #8337
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Originally Posted by Whitey_Wangster View Post
Putting together my new 2.0. I am assembling the front axle in the spindle. Pushed the axle through the spindle but the hole in the axle for the hex doesnt push through the outside bearing. I forced the axle through and got the hex pin hole past the outside bearing but when turning the axle its super gritty. The other side is fine. Has this been addresed in earlier posts? Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks
This sometimes happens because ther are 2 different length pins and some reverse them. It is important to have calipers when building a vehicle. There are 9.8mm length pins and 10mm length pins. If you put the 10mm length pins into the axle or cv build, then the pin is actually too long for the inner race of the bearing. The 10mm length pins are for the hex pins.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:23 PM   #8338
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This sometimes happens because ther are 2 different length pins and some reverse them. It is important to have calipers when building a vehicle. There are 9.8mm length pins and 10mm length pins. If you put the 10mm length pins into the axle or cv build, then the pin is actually too long for the inner race of the bearing. The 10mm length pins are for the hex pins.
Thanks Ryan I noticed the pins were to long causing the problem. I didnt realize there were two sizes. Problem has been solved.
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:06 PM   #8339
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I've got the 4250kv. It's a light, strong motor that works well on smaller indoor tracks. It would probably work fine on a big track if it's geared properly and your truck isn't too heavy. If you buy it be sure to lock-tite the little screws that hold the can to the end bell. And don't over-tighten the motor mount screws because the can is made of some really soft aluminum that strips easily.


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Has anyone tried out the Trackstar 4 pole motors, specifically the 4250kv?
I need a ROAR approved motor for regionals and I like the price point on that one.
I currently run the HW 4000kv and its been great, especially considering the price.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:17 PM   #8340
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Is anyone running the shorter chassis? Curious to see how it performs.
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