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Old 05-26-2015, 06:23 PM   #8296
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
Thinking about racing ROAR regionals this year... I don't follow the rules that closely but as I understand it, 4 pole motors are NOT legal, correct?
If thats the case, what are my choices in the 550 can/ 2 pole market?
Using a Hobbywing SCT ESC as well.
Thanks in advance
I think what's banned are 550 4-pole motors. A 540 4-pole should be ok. I have run a Schuur Speed 540 in my SCTE 2.0 and have done very well with it.
Indoors it seemed to have no issues and had the added addition of being 55 grams lighter than a Tekin 4300kv HD motor.
When I went outdoors and had to run triple A-Main's it got too hot. I guess I could have run a fan but, didn't want to have the extra issues with that. And with it being light, if wind picked up I saw issue's with parachuting.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:46 PM   #8297
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http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/print_brushlessmotors.php

2 pole 550 and 4 pole 540 are approved. Check the list before you buy a motor to be roar legal.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:35 PM   #8298
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what is every one running on there rx8 esc setting wiseo n a low traction track I am running a tekin rx8 and a hobbywing 4000kv
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:32 AM   #8299
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Can I get the orings for.the diffs separately? Anyone know the size? Can I get an.equivalent at a home depot or something? Lol
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:14 PM   #8300
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Can I get the orings for.the diffs separately? Anyone know the size? Can I get an.equivalent at a home depot or something? Lol
The only way to get the stock seals would be to buy a new HD diff case or what I call spider or crown gear set. I'm sure others have found something that will work from McMaster Carr or other RC rigs. Maybe they will chime in.

With plenty of grease and the XRAY washers, my seals have lasted nearly long enough to need a new HD Diff case. It would be nice if they offered the diff and shock o-rings separately for those of us that rebuild and or take our trucks apart often.

Many have ask for the o-rings for diffs and shocks. The common answer we get is... They last long enough, so just buy the parts kit that contains the o-rings and be happy. That's a weak answer for those asking. If you find the diff seals that work, please share them here.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:19 PM   #8301
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Thanks Thunder.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:41 PM   #8302
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Can I get the orings for.the diffs separately? Anyone know the size? Can I get an.equivalent at a home depot or something? Lol
With a few different parts sets but not separate.

http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB3568

Is the lease expensive option.

They do not come with the gears. They do come as part of the std outdrives (not HD) and they come with the HD diff cases.
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Old 05-28-2015, 04:50 AM   #8303
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Can I get the orings for.the diffs separately? Anyone know the size? Can I get an.equivalent at a home depot or something? Lol
I've had really good luck with these orings in my diffs http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...ptk-1001/p2670
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:48 AM   #8304
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Thank you ANR you are the man!! Ordering now.
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:52 PM   #8305
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Quick question,
drover truck on the track today, running great again. (still need those orings)

There's a real tight S section that I'd like to get more speed going thru. What helped turn in is moving the hubs forward. I couldn't test anything else. My battery is in the back position but I'm going to try center but I dont want the rear to step out.

I'm running Dunford setup with black front springs and silver rears with 30 wt oil all around.

I think if I decrease body roll I'll get thru that section a little quicker. (seems like I have too much)

Should I, go up in shock oil or put a beefier rear sway bar?
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:30 PM   #8306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Quick question,
drover truck on the track today, running great again. (still need those orings)

There's a real tight S section that I'd like to get more speed going thru. What helped turn in is moving the hubs forward. I couldn't test anything else. My battery is in the back position but I'm going to try center but I dont want the rear to step out.

I'm running Dunford setup with black front springs and silver rears with 30 wt oil all around.

I think if I decrease body roll I'll get thru that section a little quicker. (seems like I have too much)

Should I, go up in shock oil or put a beefier rear sway bar?
Try reducing droop by a couple mm and see how it feels.
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:11 PM   #8307
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put limiters inside shocks or can I adjust that externally?
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:29 PM   #8308
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put limiters inside shocks or can I adjust that externally?
There are droop screws in the arms that you can use to limit shock travel so you do not have to take the shocks apart.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:57 AM   #8309
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Had no idea droop affects body roll. I'll try it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:27 AM   #8310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Quick question,
drover truck on the track today, running great again. (still need those orings)

There's a real tight S section that I'd like to get more speed going thru. What helped turn in is moving the hubs forward. I couldn't test anything else. My battery is in the back position but I'm going to try center but I dont want the rear to step out.

I'm running Dunford setup with black front springs and silver rears with 30 wt oil all around.

I think if I decrease body roll I'll get thru that section a little quicker. (seems like I have too much)

Should I, go up in shock oil or put a beefier rear sway bar?
Oil could make it worse, the thicker bars would probably work better.
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