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Old 05-07-2015, 08:11 AM   #8221
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Did some financial forecasting , and it looks like you might be right. It's probably cheaper to go for a new pan in the end, or just sell it for whatever it's worth.
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I understand your reasoning. What I said is just my personal opinion. I don't know how long they would last for my area tracks, but if they only last a few races and cost what they seem to be selling for, it just seems to me that would most likely end up costing the same as just replacing a few screw and eventually a pan. Only without the hassle In between. I personally have never worried about resale value on a race vehicle, as when I'm ready to sell it, it will go cheap most likely due to there being something new out that may potentially leave my last obsolete in the eyes of the public.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:58 AM   #8222
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Yeah, I can believe it.
Back in the early 90's molded graphite chassis' was king, and it resolved the rigidity and abrasion durability issues presented. It was also much lighter than alloy used in conjunction with bolt on molded components.
If I had to take a stab at it and guess why it still isn't being used, I'd go with production cost. AKA being cheap. But for business reasons I understand such out-cost reductions.
However, what the market needs for now is a full length chassis skid guard.
One made from delrin or an equivalent self healing/lubricating composite, with an injected silicone property. With that sort of media being used, it could remain light, thin and strong enough as not to distort the function or lines of the vehicle, yet remain intact from hard impacts.
Think of it like an otterbox for your chassis. It would eliminate the problem of constant sticker replacement and take care of the abrasion issues of critical parts at the same time.

Now that 3D printers are becoming more readily available and are getting much more practical in material types yielded, these companies had better start thinking outside the box, or they will not last into the next 15 years due to open sourcing.
I personally am already working with these techs and before long I will be able to put my money where my mouth is on design and build a chassis from the ground up to demonstrate the feasibility of this fact.
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:43 AM   #8223
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This stuff works great, easy to take off and is cheap. Way thicker than most chassis protectors too. Enough on a roll to do at least 10 vehicles for $5 a roll.

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Old 05-07-2015, 10:36 AM   #8224
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Thinking about the Kyosho post earlier made me question myself.

WHAT TRUCK AM I RACING?

I started with Kyosho in the late 80s, yeah I'm and old kid. Right from the beginning I used Tamiya and Yokomo light wt hardware and tires that worked on the local tracks in Japan. Even the Tamiya Gold Motor made its way among trinity motors used to win frequently.

I'm a tinkering motor head and just like my full size Trucks, the mods are parts from any thing that looks good, works better, last longer, weighs less, runs faster and sometimes cost less. Can't remember last time that cost less one worked out for me.

All these different parts really blur the lines of what car or truck I'm racing, but we all do that with upgrades that often come from several manufacturers. The Kyosho shocks on my X-Factory buggy, which is already a mix of it's own, is a good example. Those K shocks are still near or at the top as the best ever made.

On to the SCTE. What Truck am I racing???? It has parts/products from TLR/Losi, MIP, Tekin, Hobby Wing, Airtronics, Bearings from all makes, Vision Racing, ByPass one, Pro Line, AKA, Kyosho, Traxxas, CEN, Tamiya, Parma, GOOP, Gorilla, SMC, Orion, Tekno, Robinson Racing, XRAY, Much More Racing, 3 Racing, Ofna, Radio Shack, JConcepts, Deans, ProTek, and Parma. I know there must be a few more, but thats all I could think of without going to the workshop.

I'm sure most of you that have been in the hobby a while can make a list like this for your Truck. After a while the lines get so blured about what Truck I'm racing that I program it on my radio as MIP, Losi 1, SCTE, TLR 2.0, BCE 1, SNR, Pro8 or Jammin.

So, even though I might call my Truck a Losi or TLR 2.0 or just 2.0 when bench racing. About the only stock parts still used no matter what config it is today are gear boxes, diff housings, Gears, Out drives, a arms, shock towers bumpers and body mounts. Wow, I should have started with the few Losi parts and skipped buying the kit Something to think about.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:51 PM   #8225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Not to bring up a sore subject or anything, but...
Gil Losi himself was in charge of "Kyosho America" regarding product quality control and R&D from what I understand. If that is in fact still the case, then it's sort of ironic that one would use Kyosho parts on a Losi vehicle.
Gil worked for Kyosho for a short period of time and no longer does. Although it would have been great to see Gil have more input at Kyosho I really do not think he had much impact on the Kyosho line of cars due to many factors that were really out of his control. As a result he moved on and help create AKA tires and has moved on since then

As for chassis protectors. As with anything there are lots of choices out there and some are better than others. I run them when I got outdoors blue groove or sugar type tracks as those really chew up stuff but in general I don't feel they are needed for more typical indoor clay track. If you do run one on a SCTE make sure the protector goes all they way up the bumper.

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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Thinking about the Kyosho post earlier made me question myself.

WHAT TRUCK AM I RACING?

I started with Kyosho in the late 80s, yeah I'm and old kid. Right from the beginning I used Tamiya and Yokomo light wt hardware and tires that worked on the local tracks in Japan. Even the Tamiya Gold Motor made its way among trinity motors used to win frequently.

I'm a tinkering motor head and just like my full size Trucks, the mods are parts from any thing that looks good, works better, last longer, weighs less, runs faster and sometimes cost less. Can't remember last time that cost less one worked out for me.

All these different parts really blur the lines of what car or truck I'm racing, but we all do that with upgrades that often come from several manufacturers. The Kyosho shocks on my X-Factory buggy, which is already a mix of it's own, is a good example. Those K shocks are still near or at the top as the best ever made.

On to the SCTE. What Truck am I racing???? It has parts/products from TLR/Losi, MIP, Tekin, Hobby Wing, Airtronics, Bearings from all makes, Vision Racing, ByPass one, Pro Line, AKA, Kyosho, Traxxas, CEN, Tamiya, Parma, GOOP, Gorilla, SMC, Orion, Tekno, Robinson Racing, XRAY, Much More Racing, 3 Racing, Ofna, Radio Shack, JConcepts, Deans, ProTek, and Parma. I know there must be a few more, but thats all I could think of without going to the workshop.

I'm sure most of you that have been in the hobby a while can make a list like this for your Truck. After a while the lines get so blured about what Truck I'm racing that I program it on my radio as MIP, Losi 1, SCTE, TLR 2.0, BCE 1, SNR, Pro8 or Jammin.

So, even though I might call my Truck a Losi or TLR 2.0 or just 2.0 when bench racing. About the only stock parts still used no matter what config it is today are gear boxes, diff housings, Gears, Out drives, a arms, shock towers bumpers and body mounts. Wow, I should have started with the few Losi parts and skipped buying the kit Something to think about.

One of the great things about this hobby is we have aftermarket companies that give us choices to customize our cars/trucks. It is up to the consumer to determine if an upgrade is wanted or needed however few change the geometry and drive line (significantly) which is typically set from the OEM and IMO that determines what you call the car. different chassis stiffeners or alum drive line does not make it an MIP truck... Anyway it is always fun to tinker with the trucks to make them look better or go faster.

Someone else was asking about tools.
nuts are 5-40 and us a 1/4 nut driver.
Most screws use a 2mm (5/64). You will also want a 3/32, 1/16, .050 but those are used less.
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:47 PM   #8226
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what do you guys think.
larger pinion or smaller pinion
for longer run time.
med to large outdoor track loam.
running a 14 pinion now
switching to the 39t mip spur.
have an endure coming 90 minutes.
non stop less batt changes better.
hobbywing sct pro 3656 4000 .
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:05 PM   #8227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68sportcoup View Post
what do you guys think.
larger pinion or smaller pinion
for longer run time.
med to large outdoor track loam.
running a 14 pinion now
switching to the 39t mip spur.
have an endure coming 90 minutes.
non stop less batt changes better.
hobbywing sct pro 3656 4000 .
I wouldn't change the gearing, just take 5-10% off the throttle travel/EPA. That'll be far more effective.
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:57 PM   #8228
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Our local outdoor track has opened back up so it looks like I'll finally get to run my SCTE 2.0 again.

It's been over a year since I have been able to use it so I am sure much has changed.

The track I'll be running is very loose. What is a good current setup to use? Hopefully I'll be able to tell from this whether there are any new parts I'll need to pick up.

Thanks.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:05 PM   #8229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Gil worked for Kyosho for a short period of time and no longer does. Although it would have been great to see Gil have more input at Kyosho I really do not think he had much impact on the Kyosho line of cars due to many factors that were really out of his control. As a result he moved on and help create AKA tires and has moved on since then

As for chassis protectors. As with anything there are lots of choices out there and some are better than others. I run them when I got outdoors blue groove or sugar type tracks as those really chew up stuff but in general I don't feel they are needed for more typical indoor clay track. If you do run one on a SCTE make sure the protector goes all they way up the bumper.




One of the great things about this hobby is we have aftermarket companies that give us choices to customize our cars/trucks. It is up to the consumer to determine if an upgrade is wanted or needed however few change the geometry and drive line (significantly) which is typically set from the OEM and IMO that determines what you call the car. different chassis stiffeners or alum drive line does not make it an MIP truck... Anyway it is always fun to tinker with the trucks to make them look better or go faster.

Someone else was asking about tools.
nuts are 5-40 and us a 1/4 nut driver.
Most screws use a 2mm (5/64). You will also want a 3/32, 1/16, .050 but those are used less.
Appreciate the insider on Gil. Sifting through old articles can only tell a person so much. The Losi family sure left a giant legacy in they're wake, and I agree on it being unfortunate with his lack of personal access to the Kyosho line. They should of let him create a signature version of one of the platforms targeted for here in the states. Prolly would have done well here.

As for the nut driver question you posted about, I think what he was asking about was for those sizes specifically, not the hex's.
The 4-40 1/4" is just one of them, but its difficult to find the outer size dimensions used for the rest of them, as its not listed in the manual at all in the tools introduction, but are later in the build side charts. The inner shock nuts aren't listed period. It would be nice if Losi would include this list in the future for compatibility instances.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:52 PM   #8230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Appreciate the insider on Gil. Sifting through old articles can only tell a person so much. The Losi family sure left a giant legacy in they're wake, and I agree on it being unfortunate with his lack of personal access to the Kyosho line. They should of let him create a signature version of one of the platforms targeted for here in the states. Prolly would have done well here.

As for the nut driver question you posted about, I think what he was asking about was for those sizes specifically, not the hex's.
The 4-40 1/4" is just one of them, but its difficult to find the outer size dimensions used for the rest of them, as its not listed in the manual at all in the tools introduction, but are later in the build side charts. The inner shock nuts aren't listed period. It would be nice if Losi would include this list in the future for compatibility instances.
The only other size I believe you need for a nut driver on the SCTE is the 7mm for the wheel nuts. There are not other size nuts on the SCTE. Just 5-40 which use the 1/4" nut driver and the 4mm wheel nuts that use a 7mm nut driver
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:10 PM   #8231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The only other size I believe you need for a nut driver on the SCTE is the 7mm for the wheel nuts. There are not other size nuts on the SCTE. Just 5-40 which use the 1/4" nut driver and the 4mm wheel nuts that use a 7mm nut driver
TRL336000 - 4mm x 7mm < the wheel nuts
LOSA6302 - 5-40 x 1/4" Shock mounts/brace mounts
LOSA6306 - 4-40 x 3/16" Granted these are all over the truck, but all in self locking counter sunk cavities, negating the need for a driver
LOSB2906 - ? < These are the internal shock shaft/piston nuts that there is no listing on size what so ever.

Maybe they are also outer dimension 3/16"? But there is no mention and I don't recall which end of the supplied driver I used to tighten these.
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:46 AM   #8232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
TRL336000 - 4mm x 7mm < the wheel nuts
LOSA6302 - 5-40 x 1/4" Shock mounts/brace mounts
LOSA6306 - 4-40 x 3/16" Granted these are all over the truck, but all in self locking counter sunk cavities, negating the need for a driver
LOSB2906 - ? < These are the internal shock shaft/piston nuts that there is no listing on size what so ever.

Maybe they are also outer dimension 3/16"? But there is no mention and I don't recall which end of the supplied driver I used to tighten these.
Yeah the few spots you need the min lock nuts they are captured in plastic parts.

5-40 and 4-40 std nuts both use a 1/4" nut driver.

I am 95% certain the shock uses a std size nut in there.
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Old 05-08-2015, 11:25 AM   #8233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Yeah the few spots you need the min lock nuts they are captured in plastic parts.

5-40 and 4-40 std nuts both use a 1/4" nut driver.

I am 95% certain the shock uses a std size nut in there.
Yep, the shock uses the std size nut.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:42 AM   #8234
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Originally Posted by 68sportcoup View Post
what do you guys think.
larger pinion or smaller pinion
for longer run time.
med to large outdoor track loam.
running a 14 pinion now
switching to the 39t mip spur.
have an endure coming 90 minutes.
non stop less batt changes better.
hobbywing sct pro 3656 4000 .
90 min enduro!!!! That sounds interesting. I think you can wear out a 2-3 sets of tires and be ready for a complete rebuild after that race. Is it on carpet or dirt? One driver or team?
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Old 05-09-2015, 03:13 PM   #8235
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Any info on when the rear ring and pinion will be available? Lost a couple teeth on mine and they seem to be back ordered everywhere Also anyone have a part number for the shims you would use to set pinion to ring gear mesh or can tell me what works best for this? Thanks
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