10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
04-20-2015, 04:21 PM
#8117
The latest kit is still a 2.0. Nothing different but they improved the fits of some stuff as the truck was retooled.
As for the short chassis. Really helps with indoor tracks. Makes the truck turn better with the shorter wheel base but did not really loose any rear traction. If you run on a larger sweeping track the stock chassis may still be the better choice. Again the -3 chassis is a tuning option. We have really liked it indoor though.
As for the short chassis. Really helps with indoor tracks. Makes the truck turn better with the shorter wheel base but did not really loose any rear traction. If you run on a larger sweeping track the stock chassis may still be the better choice. Again the -3 chassis is a tuning option. We have really liked it indoor though.
04-20-2015, 09:44 PM
#8119
I to had this same problem with binding in the bearings and axles. I found that the axles them selves where a touch to large in diameter. It's only off a thousandth or so, probably due to a thick anodizing. All I did to correct the issue was to clamp the axle in a drill chuck like as if it was a bit and then I spun it while laying some 600 grit sand paper against it. It barely cut through the black anodizing and the fit was perfect and all was free as it should be. The second issue I had with my kit was a binding front carrier to the hub. The king pins where slightly tighter on one side and so where the connections of the plastic to plastic. I plan to replace them with the alloy hub carriers anyhow, but you'd think the QC would be a bit stiffer on a $470 truck
^^^^^ This solved my binding wheel!!!!!! I just made a loop with some sandpaper and spun it by hand. Bearing slipped right on and didn't bind. It's not black anymore but it sure spins free.
04-20-2015, 09:48 PM
#8120
At first I thought they were taking good care of you. However, looking at that ECX servo saver link you posted I can confirm you are not getting a part that will help you. Don't even try to use that on your truck. If it did fit you would never get it to drive properly. Pick an aluminum servo horn after you know what servo you plan to keep and that will fix it right the first time. Aluminum horn will have a set number of splines and only fit the brand it was designed for. I think I posted all the links to the servo horns that work on the 2.0
04-21-2015, 02:34 AM
#8121
Horizon sent out a new bearing as they thought it might fix the problem. Popped it in and same thing.
^^^^^ This solved my binding wheel!!!!!! I just made a loop with some sandpaper and spun it by hand. Bearing slipped right on and didn't bind. It's not black anymore but it sure spins free.
^^^^^ This solved my binding wheel!!!!!! I just made a loop with some sandpaper and spun it by hand. Bearing slipped right on and didn't bind. It's not black anymore but it sure spins free.
Not to be a cry baby about it, but it was a bit disappointing to have to knock off the protective coating on a brand new part like this, but it does fix the problem easily enough none the less.
04-21-2015, 12:51 PM
#8122
Tech Initiate
Ran it indoor on a tight track, could pin it out of the corner and had lots of steering, TQ and won by 2 laps.
as for cutting the king headz, it has that extra mount that is only used for the king headz chassis, therefore the center brace that goes into the rear gearbox interferes with the extra mount on the center diff. I should of taken a picture.
P.S. my wallet is fine
04-21-2015, 06:12 PM
#8123
Ran it indoor on a tight track, could pin it out of the corner and had lots of steering, TQ and won by 2 laps.
as for cutting the king headz, it has that extra mount that is only used for the king headz chassis, therefore the center brace that goes into the rear gearbox interferes with the extra mount on the center diff. I should of taken a picture.
P.S. my wallet is fine
as for cutting the king headz, it has that extra mount that is only used for the king headz chassis, therefore the center brace that goes into the rear gearbox interferes with the extra mount on the center diff. I should of taken a picture.
P.S. my wallet is fine
I guess what people, or I anyhow, would like to hear is what your opinion is on how much of an improvement it made from what you where running with the longer pan.
Also I would be interested in seeing that picture also if you can find the time.
04-22-2015, 05:50 AM
#8124
Tech Initiate
If you did that well with the new chassis I can hardly see how you wouldn't have won with the chassis you had originally.
I guess what people, or I anyhow, would like to hear is what your opinion is on how much of an improvement it made from what you where running with the longer pan.
Also I would be interested in seeing that picture also if you can find the time.
I guess what people, or I anyhow, would like to hear is what your opinion is on how much of an improvement it made from what you where running with the longer pan.
Also I would be interested in seeing that picture also if you can find the time.
04-22-2015, 08:03 PM
#8125
it is possible to make the stock kit turn much faster and hold much tighter circumfrenece in a circle with some grinding to the front end parts,I shimmed the whole front end with the losi shim kit and ran tighter balls and links from a 2.0 eight buggy and the turning angle is really tight,Id like to hear some feeback on others,measure 2 marks side by side and try and turn inside those marks with slow throttle then moderate throtte and let us know your turning radius. ive seen some terrible scte turn radius at our track.
also when you turn you front end to the stops under servos power,do both wheels hold full tight on the stops or does the outside wheel still move back and forth a little?
also when you turn you front end to the stops under servos power,do both wheels hold full tight on the stops or does the outside wheel still move back and forth a little?
04-24-2015, 01:38 AM
#8127
Shorter front camber link
More camber
Lighter front sway bar (equal the rear)
Softer front spring
lighter oil in the front diff
All assuming you have full throw of course.
04-25-2015, 03:34 AM
#8128
I have even seen 7k in the front and center, but again not lighter than 5k.
It has always seemed the opposite to what you just suggested in my experience. Maybe also the reason for the factory stock suggestion setting the rear diff with lighter oil than the center or front... If the rear diff is effectively locking/resisting equally to the front, you will always notice under steer and get said push effect.
Seems to me going lighter in the rear would be more effective, or raising up the weight on the front and center.
04-25-2015, 03:56 AM
#8129
it is possible to make the stock kit turn much faster and hold much tighter circumfrenece in a circle with some grinding to the front end parts,I shimmed the whole front end with the losi shim kit and ran tighter balls and links from a 2.0 eight buggy and the turning angle is really tight,Id like to hear some feeback on others,measure 2 marks side by side and try and turn inside those marks with slow throttle then moderate throtte and let us know your turning radius. ive seen some terrible scte turn radius at our track.
also when you turn you front end to the stops under servos power,do both wheels hold full tight on the stops or does the outside wheel still move back and forth a little?
also when you turn you front end to the stops under servos power,do both wheels hold full tight on the stops or does the outside wheel still move back and forth a little?
Also as for any race car, the steering responsiveness can be found in the rear wheel toe degree more than the fronts. Take a degree or two out if your running a tight track and you should notice a drastic difference, but keep in mind your strait line tracking stability under power will be less.
When I had a monster truck years back, I had found everyone to be running a 0 deg front toe and -2 rear, but I could run a 0 toe rear and -1 front toe and it seemed to out perform a lot of the other trucks in the same regard.