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Old 04-16-2015, 03:31 PM   #8101
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I would assume so. TLR did not change the center drives shafts to accommodate the -3 chassis so I would have to assume the MIP ones will still work as well.
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:34 PM   #8102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
They said it uses all the same driveline stuff best I remember so I would assume the MiP puck setup would be the same.
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I would assume so. TLR did not change the center drives shafts to accommodate the -3 chassis so I would have to assume the MIP ones will still work as well.
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Looking at mine with the mip pucks, it will be close to bottoming out the driveshaft in the cup in the rear. The slot is deep enough but the bone itself might bottom under chassis flex and bend. Hard to say without trying it.
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They said it uses all the same driveline stuff best I remember so I would assume the MiP puck setup would be the same.
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I would have to see the MIP stuff in person to know for sure. But, the chassis removes the length all in the rear. So, as long as the MIP outdrives have the slot in them deep enough like the stock center outdrives, they would be ok. What you need is to move the rear drive shaft in 3mm, and then still have 2-3mm room for chassis flex.
Thanks for the replies guys! I think I will buy it then since the consensus is that it should be okay.
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:11 PM   #8103
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I am looking to replace the flanged balls on my rear chamber links since they are severely worn and have flat spots. I have found the LOSB2187 pack but it is $26 and has a lot of extra pieces that I don't need at this time. I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand of flanged balls that would work?

The other question I have is about the pins on the CV couplers (LOSB3565), I am replacing these pins quite frequently and was wondering if there is a bulk option for buying just the pins in like a pack of 20.

Thank you,
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:53 PM   #8104
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
I am looking to replace the flanged balls on my rear chamber links since they are severely worn and have flat spots. I have found the LOSB2187 pack but it is $26 and has a lot of extra pieces that I don't need at this time. I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand of flanged balls that would work?

The other question I have is about the pins on the CV couplers (LOSB3565), I am replacing these pins quite frequently and was wondering if there is a bulk option for buying just the pins in like a pack of 20.

Thank you,
Those balls it is odd you are only wearing out the rear ones? I would get the pack and replace them all.

Pins. Measure them. You can typically find small pins like that at a place like McMaster

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dowel-pins/=wsoyku
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:29 PM   #8105
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Default Is this kit available anywhere?

Does anyone have a line on this kit? I can't find it anywhere in stock and would like one for the start of the summer season.
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:18 PM   #8106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
I am looking to replace the flanged balls on my rear chamber links since they are severely worn and have flat spots. I have found the LOSB2187 pack but it is $26 and has a lot of extra pieces that I don't need at this time. I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand of flanged balls that would work?
I also find that the inner balls wear much faster than the outer ones and I have no explanation for it.

I now use the inner flanged balls from the Losi 8ight 2.0 (Not the 1.0 and not the 3.0). Part number is LOSA6055. I have found they last longer than the SCTE specific HA balls. You may need a longer screw because these balls are longer than the SCTE balls.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:40 PM   #8107
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Hey Casper or Ryan.... Quick question for you guys. I've been running the original 2.0 for about 3 racing season. I mainly run on a low to medium grip outdoor track. My question is am I going to see a difference in grip with the shorter chassis on the updated chassis and truck? Wanting to do a rebuild on my truck but I'm considering keeping it as a backup or possibly just selling it and starting fresh. Let me know what you guys have experienced with the new truck!! Thanks!!!
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:47 AM   #8108
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Originally Posted by Chiudioni752 View Post
Hey Casper or Ryan.... Quick question for you guys. I've been running the original 2.0 for about 3 racing season. I mainly run on a low to medium grip outdoor track. My question is am I going to see a difference in grip with the shorter chassis on the updated chassis and truck? Wanting to do a rebuild on my truck but I'm considering keeping it as a backup or possibly just selling it and starting fresh. Let me know what you guys have experienced with the new truck!! Thanks!!!
The latest kit is still a 2.0. Nothing different but they improved the fits of some stuff as the truck was retooled.

As for the short chassis. Really helps with indoor tracks. Makes the truck turn better with the shorter wheel base but did not really loose any rear traction. If you run on a larger sweeping track the stock chassis may still be the better choice. Again the -3 chassis is a tuning option. We have really liked it indoor though.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:38 AM   #8109
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Awesome! Thanks for all the help in this thread. This truck is beyond awesome. So the retooled kit coming out will come with the new -3 chassis correct? So I would still be able to get a fresh kit and order just the standard 2.0 chassis for outdoor tracks?
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:43 AM   #8110
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New kit is not -3 chassis.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #8111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiudioni752 View Post
Hey Casper or Ryan.... Quick question for you guys. I've been running the original 2.0 for about 3 racing season. I mainly run on a low to medium grip outdoor track. My question is am I going to see a difference in grip with the shorter chassis on the updated chassis and truck? Wanting to do a rebuild on my truck but I'm considering keeping it as a backup or possibly just selling it and starting fresh. Let me know what you guys have experienced with the new truck!! Thanks!!!
i would say that the grip will increase a tinge in the rear but with the truck rotating much better, it will feel about the same.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:57 AM   #8112
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Originally Posted by Chiudioni752 View Post
Awesome! Thanks for all the help in this thread. This truck is beyond awesome. So the retooled kit coming out will come with the new -3 chassis correct? So I would still be able to get a fresh kit and order just the standard 2.0 chassis for outdoor tracks?
A current stock 2.0 truck comes the same as an old one with a std chassis. The -3 chassis is and aftermarket tuning aid. If you buy a kit today you would still need to purchase a separate -3 chassis if you want to run it.
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:53 AM   #8113
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Originally Posted by TrollStomper View Post
Does anyone have a line on this kit? I can't find it anywhere in stock and would like one for the start of the summer season.
We will have kits back in stock before months end.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:13 PM   #8114
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Ran the -3mm chassis this passed weekend, used the MIP puck system and had no problems at all, but anyone using the king headz center diff will have some cutting to do.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:00 PM   #8115
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Originally Posted by jay_959 View Post
Ran the -3mm chassis this passed weekend, used the MIP puck system and had no problems at all, but anyone using the king headz center diff will have some cutting to do.
Good info, did you run indoors? What did you notice with the -3mm chassis from the original? Thinking about trying the -3 myself. Thanks
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