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Old 04-10-2015, 08:44 PM   #8086
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At first I thought they were taking good care of you. However, looking at that ECX servo saver link you posted I can confirm you are not getting a part that will help you. Don't even try to use that on your truck. If it did fit you would never get it to drive properly. Pick an aluminum servo horn after you know what servo you plan to keep and that will fix it right the first time. Aluminum horn will have a set number of splines and only fit the brand it was designed for. I think I posted all the links to the servo horns that work on the 2.0
I kind of thought that when I was talking to them on the phone. The proper parts are all out of stock and they have no kit returns to rob. I suggested the aluminum horn that you posted but they nixed that right away.

If this ECX part doesn't work I'll be a little annoyed. I specifically chose to buy the Spektrum 6040 and Spektrum transmitter because they would all be backed by the same company. I have a Savox in my 22SCT that I suppose I could swap too.....

Do you have a pic of the aluminum horn setup on a truck at all? I'd like to see how that goes together. I have a plastic horn from my 22SCT that looks similar to what you posted.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:53 PM   #8087
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I pulled apart all four spindles and narrowed it down to either the axels being too wide or the bearings being a touch too small. The axles that wouldn't rotate free in the bearing also had a very tight fit on the inner race to the axle. Support is sending out bearings as they say that is most likely the culprit.
I to had this same problem with binding in the bearings and axles. I found that the axles them selves where a touch to large in diameter. It's only off a thousandth or so, probably due to a thick anodizing. All I did to correct the issue was to clamp the axle in a drill chuck like as if it was a bit and then I spun it while laying some 600 grit sand paper against it. It barely cut through the black anodizing and the fit was perfect and all was free as it should be. The second issue I had with my kit was a binding front carrier to the hub. The king pins where slightly tighter on one side and so where the connections of the plastic to plastic. I plan to replace them with the alloy hub carriers anyhow, but you'd think the QC would be a bit stiffer on a $470 truck
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:32 AM   #8088
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Originally Posted by ignishen View Post
I kind of thought that when I was talking to them on the phone. The proper parts are all out of stock and they have no kit returns to rob. I suggested the aluminum horn that you posted but they nixed that right away.

If this ECX part doesn't work I'll be a little annoyed. I specifically chose to buy the Spektrum 6040 and Spektrum transmitter because they would all be backed by the same company. I have a Savox in my 22SCT that I suppose I could swap too.....

Do you have a pic of the aluminum horn setup on a truck at all? I'd like to see how that goes together. I have a plastic horn from my 22SCT that looks similar to what you posted.
Take a look at this Tekno video that explains the issue. The last half of this video is what you want to see. Shows high and low servo horns. Take Note of the info he provides about a spacer to level out the steering rod.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...d=0CEwQMyglMCU
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Old 04-14-2015, 05:29 AM   #8089
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With the end of our indoor season over, and my brother having shoulder surgery, we are done racing for a while I want to replace my front and rear diffs. I am going to order the new HD cases, and wait a while so I hopefully get the newer gears for them. If I do end up with the newer stuff for the rebuild do I still need to buy after market washers and such? This will be the first time I been inside TLR diffs as this truck was used when I got it, so other than looking at the instructions I never had them open.
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Old 04-14-2015, 07:22 AM   #8090
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Anyone tried or using the Hot Racing aluminum diffs? Seams they would be rebuildable for alot longer...
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Old 04-14-2015, 08:43 AM   #8091
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I never knew Alum. ones was available, we used to run alum ones on our old RC10's years ago, but in this class on a already heavy truck you would think that would add even more weight. got a link to them would be cool to see.
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:18 PM   #8092
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...I am going to order the new HD cases, and wait a while so I hopefully get the newer gears for them. If I do end up with the newer stuff for the rebuild do I still need to buy after market washers and such? This will be the first time I been inside TLR diffs as this truck was used when I got it, so other than looking at the instructions I never had them open.
If the gears inside the diff are OK, all you will need with your HD diff case are either the GMK or the Xray washers. Good to have more washers since the case, the gears, and outdrives outlast the two that come in the rebuilt kit.

Although it took me couple tries to figure out the right oil weight for my driving style, once I figured it out, I went a whole season without rebuilding mine. Still full when I opened them.
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #8093
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Anyone tried or using the Hot Racing aluminum diffs? Seams they would be rebuildable for alot longer...
No advantage to using the HR case since the TLR HD case is available. They just look cool where you can see them in the center diff. Quality control on some of there stuff could be better.
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Old 04-14-2015, 08:06 PM   #8094
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No advantage to using the HR case since the TLR HD case is available. They just look cool where you can see them in the center diff. Quality control on some of there stuff could be better.
Ok, copy that. But as far as being heavy I dont see that they would be much more being as small as they are. Im using the TLR hd's, was just curios because I seam to strip out the screws in the plastic
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Old 04-14-2015, 08:46 PM   #8095
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It may only be a few ounces heavier but being rotating mass it's going to put alot more strain on your drivetrain
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:39 AM   #8096
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I actually think the gears are still in good shaps as it still seems to be running ok, I do know I need to replace the outdrives, they are wore pretty good. I was planning on fif money allows to get all new front and rear diffs. and mount them to start off the season with and then rebuil dthe old ones with different oils, that way I could swap them out and it would be easier and faster to experiment.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:30 PM   #8097
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Does anyone know if I will still be able to use my MIP SCTE 2.0 center drive system with the new TLR -3mm chassis?
I would like to buy the new -3mm but, am hesitant if I cannot use the MIP system.

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2015, 04:00 AM   #8098
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Does anyone know if I will still be able to use my MIP SCTE 2.0 center drive system with the new TLR -3mm chassis?
I would like to buy the new -3mm but, am hesitant if I cannot use the MIP system.

Thanks
They said it uses all the same driveline stuff best I remember so I would assume the MiP puck setup would be the same.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:31 AM   #8099
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Does anyone know if I will still be able to use my MIP SCTE 2.0 center drive system with the new TLR -3mm chassis?
I would like to buy the new -3mm but, am hesitant if I cannot use the MIP system.

Thanks
I would have to see the MIP stuff in person to know for sure. But, the chassis removes the length all in the rear. So, as long as the MIP outdrives have the slot in them deep enough like the stock center outdrives, they would be ok. What you need is to move the rear drive shaft in 3mm, and then still have 2-3mm room for chassis flex.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:44 AM   #8100
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Originally Posted by Fader12 View Post
Does anyone know if I will still be able to use my MIP SCTE 2.0 center drive system with the new TLR -3mm chassis?
I would like to buy the new -3mm but, am hesitant if I cannot use the MIP system.

Thanks
Looking at mine with the mip pucks, it will be close to bottoming out the driveshaft in the cup in the rear. The slot is deep enough but the bone itself might bottom under chassis flex and bend. Hard to say without trying it.
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