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Old 04-07-2015, 05:37 PM   #8041
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I would go with a Tekin pro4 HD 4300 and Tekin RX8 Gen2. Hobbywing too is good for lower budget racer.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:00 PM   #8042
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Hey god, You said you are running the Hobbywing 4700, are you running the Hobbywing SCT Pro esc too? I want to get the right stuff the first time
I've been running the sct pro until recently switched to rx8 gen2. Either one works great.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:20 PM   #8043
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Default Build questions......

Don't know the proper name for the part but the metal caps provided with the kit that attaches to the top of the servo. Using a Spektrum 6040, the cap labeled 23S does not slip on. Feel like I'd need to use a hammer, what's the trick?

Also, front and rear left side spindles seem to be creating binding of the large inner bearing. Axle spins freely on the bearing, but when installed in the spindle is very notchy feeling. Both right sides are a lot smoother. What could I have done wrong? Could it be related to the recent parts revisions?
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:20 PM   #8044
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Originally Posted by ignishen View Post
Don't know the proper name for the part but the metal caps provided with the kit that attaches to the top of the servo. Using a Spektrum 6040, the cap labeled 23S does not slip on. Feel like I'd need to use a hammer, what's the trick?

Also, front and rear left side spindles seem to be creating binding of the large inner bearing. Axle spins freely on the bearing, but when installed in the spindle is very notchy feeling. Both right sides are a lot smoother. What could I have done wrong? Could it be related to the recent parts revisions?
Dont use a hammer Try another servo horn that fits a 23 spine, JR should also fit. Aluminum is the way to go.

Not sure about binding. Is this the new kit? If bearing is smooth out of the hub I dont know> Is it rough feeling when the dog bone is in the diff cup, it could be the diff? Test each part one at a time till you find it.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:22 AM   #8045
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Originally Posted by ignishen View Post
Don't know the proper name for the part but the metal caps provided with the kit that attaches to the top of the servo. Using a Spektrum 6040, the cap labeled 23S does not slip on. Feel like I'd need to use a hammer, what's the trick?

Also, front and rear left side spindles seem to be creating binding of the large inner bearing. Axle spins freely on the bearing, but when installed in the spindle is very notchy feeling. Both right sides are a lot smoother. What could I have done wrong? Could it be related to the recent parts revisions?
The spline should be tight however sometimes it is harder. I there are two 23 as mentioned the A for airtronics and the J for JR. J typically has a better fit. You ca get it lined up and then use the screw to press it on to the spline which is what I have had to do on occasion.

Are you using the stock plastic spindles and rear hubs? The plastic should not be put enough pressure on the bearings to cause issues. Where the bearings very hard to get into the hubs. Bearings could just be bad as well. That is odd.
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:01 PM   #8046
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I would go with a Tekin pro4 HD 4300 and Tekin RX8 Gen2. Hobbywing too is good for lower budget racer.
Ok, I will work on getting the Tekin, is 4300 the only option? I see some running 4000 or 4600. Im a real beginner, never raced before but plan to when Im used to my truck, thanks
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:14 PM   #8047
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The spline should be tight however sometimes it is harder. I there are two 23 as mentioned the A for airtronics and the J for JR. J typically has a better fit. You ca get it lined up and then use the screw to press it on to the spline which is what I have had to do on occasion.

Are you using the stock plastic spindles and rear hubs? The plastic should not be put enough pressure on the bearings to cause issues. Where the bearings very hard to get into the hubs. Bearings could just be bad as well. That is odd.
Yes this is the stock plastic, and the bearings aren't that tight if a fit. Maybe inner and outer bearing are out of alignment somehow? I can spin the axle just fine in one bearing or the other, just not both. It's rough with or without the dogbone in, so definitely not the diff.

They aren't marked A or J. The kit came with 23S, 24, and 25. I figured going with a Spektrum servo it would all just fit. I did try the screw tightening but still seemed like it was forcing it too much. Kind of weird to need another part. Can you point me in the direction of what I'm looking for? Maybe I got the wrong part in the kit?
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Last edited by ignishen; 04-08-2015 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:20 PM   #8048
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Ok, I will work on getting the Tekin, is 4300 the only option? I see some running 4000 or 4600. Im a real beginner, never raced before but plan to when Im used to my truck, thanks
The Tekin 4300 is a Pro4HD and the Tekin 4600 is the Pro4. If you're just starting out consider the HobbyWing 4000 or 4700 setup. For $200 you get the motor, esc, and a programming box. You'll be almost double that with Tekin. If you get the 'larger' motor be prepared to do a lot of tweaking with the ESC if you're running on a small track.
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:34 PM   #8049
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Yes this is the stock plastic, and the bearings aren't that tight if a fit. Maybe inner and outer bearing are out of alignment somehow? I can spin the axle just fine in one bearing or the other, just not both. It's rough with or without the dogbone in, so definitely not the diff.

They aren't marked A or J. The kit came with 23S, 24, and 25. I figured going with a Spektrum servo it would all just fit. I did try the screw tightening but still seemed like it was forcing it too much. Kind of weird to need another part. Can you point me in the direction of what I'm looking for? Maybe I got the wrong part in the kit?
Oh you are using the stock servo arm. It may be a bit of a press still. The two should got on. Most of us use an alum servo arm. The stock one is fine but an alum arm flexes less.

That is odd about the bearings. I would make sure the bearings are fully seated. get the axle/ bone assy in place and hex on and then push and pull on the assembly to make sure everything is seated properly as it could be a very small alignment issue but the parts should be good.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:09 PM   #8050
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Just an FYI for getting max steering throw from your truck. Took mine apart and noticed the linkage that connects the steering servo was pretty chewed up in the front where it connects to the steering rack. The rod end was hitting the Ackerman link at full throw. I raised the link up with a .060" shim and it clears and allows more throw to that side.
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:35 PM   #8051
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Oh you are using the stock servo arm. It may be a bit of a press still. The two should got on. Most of us use an alum servo arm. The stock one is fine but an alum arm flexes less.

That is odd about the bearings. I would make sure the bearings are fully seated. get the axle/ bone assy in place and hex on and then push and pull on the assembly to make sure everything is seated properly as it could be a very small alignment issue but the parts should be good.
I'm betting that one of the bearings is slightly out of alignment. This happened on mine. Couldn't see it with the naked eye. Took a socket and hammer and fully seated the bearing. All is good.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #8052
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Unfortunately no, it doesnt work like that. You will have to check the walls at your local shop until we all know that all of the old stock is gone.

I can tell you that right now, the rear ring and pinion did run out of the old stock, so once we get them back in, if you have a back order, it would fill with the new one.

There are about 50 of the older front one left still in stock.
thanks for the info.....
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:35 PM   #8053
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MMMM, should not use a hammer on bearings. Socket does help spread the load, but the balls can dent or they can dent the bearing race surface and shorten its life. JMO Light taps should be enough.

Wish it was on my work bench. Good job explaining the problem. There should be no binding. 1,000 mile screw diver is never the perfect tool.

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Old 04-08-2015, 09:35 PM   #8054
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Oh you are using the stock servo arm. It may be a bit of a press still. The two should got on. Most of us use an alum servo arm. The stock one is fine but an alum arm flexes less.

That is odd about the bearings. I would make sure the bearings are fully seated. get the axle/ bone assy in place and hex on and then push and pull on the assembly to make sure everything is seated properly as it could be a very small alignment issue but the parts should be good.
Thanks everyone. I'll double check all the bearings tomorrow and see what I come up with. Otherwise I'll put a call in to Horizon.

What part number aluminum horn do you run? Don't see one referenced specifically for the SCTE.
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:07 AM   #8055
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Ok, I will work on getting the Tekin, is 4300 the only option? I see some running 4000 or 4600. Im a real beginner, never raced before but plan to when Im used to my truck, thanks
Well, it's up to you, I started racing two year ago with a 4300 and never had problem since then. If you have too much power you can turn the current down in the hotwire. I am currently having the current at 80%. The hobbywing SCT combo is good too, but you wont have the same reliability and customer support then Tekin.
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