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Old 03-21-2015, 05:39 AM   #7906
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Also when setting end points put the car on the ground. Don't set them with the wheels hanging.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:06 AM   #7907
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the guys I've had to help with their trucks usually had something funny going on with their front ends. usually something wasn't assembled correctly after a rush diff service or they didn't build the servo to anchorman arm correctly.

I actually lengthened that arm so it would make contact and flex the chassis, then I dialed out the steering in the radio so it wouldnt make contact. I gained so much steering (especially usable steering travel) over the box set up I had to bump my front spring rate to take some of it away.

I've tried a few diff lengths of servo steering arms. I've grinded ends of ball joints on them and into carbon Ackerman bar. I have the steering as far as it can go. I've even grinded the outside edge of a arms a bit so at full lock they don't rub the back side of the wheels. some brands of wheels need grinding to run this extreme steering. place truck on ground like a g pad test as real cars test apply light throttle the truck turns a super tight radius apply med throttle it holds it. turning to right its wider radius apply throttle and it pushes way farther right immediately. what mms length servo arm do you use. every 2.0 I come across I use the g pad test on. it's a common issue
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:30 PM   #7908
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I have to rebuild my diff's. The out drives move on the diff's. The washers inside the diff's. Is in a cone shape when I took the center diff apart. I don't want to buy new diff drums. What is everyone using to replace the washer inside the diff's?
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #7909
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Why is this truck sold out everywhere?
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:57 AM   #7910
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Why is this truck sold out everywhere?
"there is a parts supply issue"

now "there is an update coming"
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:02 PM   #7911
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I've tried a few diff lengths of servo steering arms. I've grinded ends of ball joints on them and into carbon Ackerman bar. I have the steering as far as it can go. I've even grinded the outside edge of a arms a bit so at full lock they don't rub the back side of the wheels. some brands of wheels need grinding to run this extreme steering. place truck on ground like a g pad test as real cars test apply light throttle the truck turns a super tight radius apply med throttle it holds it. turning to right its wider radius apply throttle and it pushes way farther right immediately. what mms length servo arm do you use. every 2.0 I come across I use the g pad test on. it's a common issue
I don't have the truck any more (/sadface) but I think it was only 2mm longer than the book says. and they are right when they tell you to set your end points with the truck on the table. I even compress mine and let it settle. Tweaking the settings like this helped my 2.0 get the steering my 1.0 had.... but still keep the rear planted.

edit: I really like a pushy truck that I have to overdrive.... i really had to dial steering out and no one at my local tracks ever had steering issues with 2.0s... especially once they started tuning with end points.
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:22 PM   #7912
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Some one have the list of the updated parts of the new SCTE 2.0 ?
My end link have so much play, would like to swap for the updated parts.
Maybe some one have an idea?
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:43 AM   #7913
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I am going to reset my EPA on my steering with the truck setting on the ground like suggested, I think right now I have it down both ways close to 50% or less and both sides are not the same. I hope this gains me some more steering, on right hand turns it just pushes a lot more than it does to the left if I remember correctly. As far as my setup goes I have 30wt oil in all 4 shocks w/#3 pistons. stock sway bars, stock rear toe and droop. battery in middle, black springs on the front and orange on rear. My shock positions are stock manual positions. The truck jumps nice and comes out of the corners nice, it may just be my driving style and slowing down to much on entering the corners to, as I might not be staying on the power as needed, just because I am still learning to drive off road. So Maybe as my comfort level and skill improve the corner handling might improve as well. I'd hate to drop the springs any as the truck already feels real soft, and I'm afraid if I go softer it will bottom out more on the landings which is not a good thing either.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:47 AM   #7914
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I am going to reset my EPA on my steering with the truck setting on the ground like suggested, I think right now I have it down both ways close to 50% or less and both sides are not the same. I hope this gains me some more steering, on right hand turns it just pushes a lot more than it does to the left if I remember correctly. As far as my setup goes I have 30wt oil in all 4 shocks w/#3 pistons. stock sway bars, stock rear toe and droop. battery in middle, black springs on the front and orange on rear. My shock positions are stock manual positions. The truck jumps nice and comes out of the corners nice, it may just be my driving style and slowing down to much on entering the corners to, as I might not be staying on the power as needed, just because I am still learning to drive off road. So Maybe as my comfort level and skill improve the corner handling might improve as well. I'd hate to drop the springs any as the truck already feels real soft, and I'm afraid if I go softer it will bottom out more on the landings which is not a good thing either.
Are you setting your end points to where they physically stop moving or making them even on the transmitter?
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:13 AM   #7915
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I am stopping them when they hit something, and then 1 or 2 more so that there is no bind. But I did it on the stand with the tires hanging and not under load so to speak like someone else suggested.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:40 AM   #7916
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I am stopping them when they hit something, and then 1 or 2 more so that there is no bind. But I did it on the stand with the tires hanging and not under load so to speak like someone else suggested.
Oh ok just checking.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:26 PM   #7917
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I cannot do it at even same numbers each way because they hit at different points and I want as much as possible, as our track is high bite, and usually a technical track layout.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:15 PM   #7918
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just use the losi 2.0 steel balls and slightly more beefy rod ends. The alum is just a bad idea in the sc world of 5 to 6 lb trucks. Its worth the few extra grams of weight.

Hacker..I cant tell ya how many people Ive met with turning issues with 2.0 Do you have any parts that make it easy to get more tight turning and less push with it..

where is your battery positioned to get that weight balance you posted with the scale?
You seem to be rather stuck on the amount of travel or degrees that the truck itself steers. I can tell you that if you want more steering travel, you can use the aluminum 15 degree caster blocks. I have never had a problem steering with my truck. As long as you ensure your right and left steering link are the same length as they should be, you should be fine. I dont dremel anything in my steering at all and had no issues turning under anyone this last weekend.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:17 PM   #7919
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I am stopping them when they hit something, and then 1 or 2 more so that there is no bind. But I did it on the stand with the tires hanging and not under load so to speak like someone else suggested.
You always want to set end points on a vehicle at ride height. That is typically when arms are level and you have the most throw out of all of the part in the steering system.
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:07 PM   #7920
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Dang Ryan, You got Hacked so bad in the main on Sat, I don't think You even had the chance to turn!!!!
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