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Old 03-18-2015, 10:27 AM   #7891
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your using a tlr chassis or the production bce model. What changed exactly in the front end from the 1.0 to the 2.0 ? Caster blocks? carriers? head angle on chassis?
Nothing.

The chassis layout and the parts it comes with changed. The chassis layout will certainly affect things and the reality is, we made the truck more stable for the average user. However, we didn't feel we lost any steering making it more stable. We just gained rear traction.
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:38 PM   #7892
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Maybe TLR guys can make us a list.
just use the losi 2.0 steel balls and slightly more beefy rod ends. The alum is just a bad idea in the sc world of 5 to 6 lb trucks. Its worth the few extra grams of weight.

Hacker..I cant tell ya how many people Ive met with turning issues with 2.0 Do you have any parts that make it easy to get more tight turning and less push with it..

where is your battery positioned to get that weight balance you posted with the scale?
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:49 PM   #7893
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just use the losi 2.0 steel balls and slightly more beefy rod ends. The alum is just a bad idea in the sc world of 5 to 6 lb trucks. Its worth the few extra grams of weight.

Hacker..I cant tell ya how many people Ive met with turning issues with 2.0 Do you have any parts that make it easy to get more tight turning and less push with it..

where is your battery positioned to get that weight balance you posted with the scale?
Battery in middle
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:36 PM   #7894
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
just use the losi 2.0 steel balls and slightly more beefy rod ends. The alum is just a bad idea in the sc world of 5 to 6 lb trucks. Its worth the few extra grams of weight.

Hacker..I cant tell ya how many people Ive met with turning issues with 2.0 Do you have any parts that make it easy to get more tight turning and less push with it..

where is your battery positioned to get that weight balance you posted with the scale?
Any parts number for the conversion would be appreciate? I'm not really into 1/8 things.
Thanks you.
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:53 PM   #7895
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more turn in? run a lighter front spring. run rear hubs all the way fwd.

my truck has tons of steering , guess I got a fluke LOL.
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:10 AM   #7896
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Here are some things that have worked for me to add more steering.

Run a thin front sway bar or none
Stiffer silver springs on rear shocks
Less toe-in on rear suspension holder insert
Less caster up front
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:32 AM   #7897
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Hey there guys. Just have a question. I'm building my 2.0 and on the front end I put the king pin in the 2 inserts and then put the inserts in the blocks and tightened them to the diff case. The arm slides back and forth with about 1-2mm of slop. Is this normal? Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:41 AM   #7898
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got a pic it may help show exactly where.
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:51 AM   #7899
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Hey there guys. Just have a question. I'm building my 2.0 and on the front end I put the king pin in the 2 inserts and then put the inserts in the blocks and tightened them to the diff case. The arm slides back and forth with about 1-2mm of slop. Is this normal? Thanks for the help.
Yes it's normal, make sure the arm goes up and down freely.
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:35 PM   #7900
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Here are some things that have worked for me to add more steering.

Run a thin front sway bar or none
Stiffer silver springs on rear shocks
Less toe-in on rear suspension holder insert
Less caster up front
Ive always run rear hubs all the way forward,never really noticed much diff with that,I run blue front and orange rear,track is a little rough and you cant get to stiff,Ive run the front shocks at very steep angles.angles. Ive not done alot of the sway bars,is that making a big diff for you? what have you tried for rear toe in and front caster that worked well?
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Old 03-19-2015, 05:43 PM   #7901
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running rear hubs fwd also gives the rear a lot of traction too so you may want to space it backwards more. What weight are your oils?
what kinda surface are you running on?

try running a black front spring, middle up top, out on the bottom.
less caster
more toe in the rear.

Have you verified the ride height?

what oil do you have in your diffs?
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Old 03-19-2015, 10:36 PM   #7902
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Ive always run rear hubs all the way forward,never really noticed much diff with that,I run blue front and orange rear,track is a little rough and you cant get to stiff,Ive run the front shocks at very steep angles.angles. Ive not done alot of the sway bars,is that making a big diff for you? what have you tried for rear toe in and front caster that worked well?
The bars are key for me. I like the silver bar up front. Stock one is huge. Thin allows chassis to roll which seems to put more wt on outside front tire. To get a good idea how much it matters, just take the front bar off and run a few laps, then go back to the bar. Makes a big difference. Change front inserts taking caster out til you find what you like. Less caster keeps tire tread flatter in turns, more tire touching the ground. Can make it too sensitive on turn in, its not for everyone. Moving rear hubs back will put more wt on front tires, more steering but you will loose some traction under throttle out of turns. Run stock inserts on rear. Don't change that until you try the other front end changes. It works for me.
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:00 PM   #7903
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those are my shock positions currently. 3 pistons 35 front 30rear 3 5 7 diffs 41/14 gearing steering savor full tight. grinded carriers and spindles and side of diff case. carbon bearing drag link new tight losi eight steel balls and plastic ends. black sway bars tekno front cvd kit ride height is as high as I can run with no traction rolls. this changes with traction on blue groove decent traction clay

mostly higher speed rights 3low speed left's. truck turns so hard left had to reduce steering end point. to the right it still pushes slam locked on steering end point. I can still win with it but I have to go much slower coming out of rights to keep out of the wall. it turns so hard left the rear left tire comes off the ground a bit on hard breaking left's and rear will slide out so I have to drift slide it a bit. need this extreme left setting for the other 2 left hair pins. so the higher speed left requires concentration and smooth throttle and steering. I could rip the bce 1.0 without even thinking about it on the same track with almost identical setup
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:21 PM   #7904
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
those are my shock positions currently. 3 pistons 35 front 30rear 3 5 7 diffs 41/14 gearing steering savor full tight. grinded carriers and spindles and side of diff case. carbon bearing drag link new tight losi eight steel balls and plastic ends. black sway bars tekno front cvd kit ride height is as high as I can run with no traction rolls. this changes with traction on blue groove decent traction clay

mostly higher speed rights 3low speed left's. truck turns so hard left had to reduce steering end point. to the right it still pushes slam locked on steering end point. I can still win with it but I have to go much slower coming out of rights to keep out of the wall. it turns so hard left the rear left tire comes off the ground a bit on hard breaking left's and rear will slide out so I have to drift slide it a bit. need this extreme left setting for the other 2 left hair pins. so the higher speed left requires concentration and smooth throttle and steering. I could rip the bce 1.0 without even thinking about it on the same track with almost identical setup
You've checked your shock lengths and made sure the chassis isn't tweaked?
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Old 03-21-2015, 05:00 AM   #7905
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Originally Posted by ResultsRC View Post
just use the losi 2.0 steel balls and slightly more beefy rod ends. The alum is just a bad idea in the sc world of 5 to 6 lb trucks. Its worth the few extra grams of weight.

Hacker..I cant tell ya how many people Ive met with turning issues with 2.0 Do you have any parts that make it easy to get more tight turning and less push with it..

where is your battery positioned to get that weight balance you posted with the scale?
the guys I've had to help with their trucks usually had something funny going on with their front ends. usually something wasn't assembled correctly after a rush diff service or they didn't build the servo to anchorman arm correctly.

I actually lengthened that arm so it would make contact and flex the chassis, then I dialed out the steering in the radio so it wouldnt make contact. I gained so much steering (especially usable steering travel) over the box set up I had to bump my front spring rate to take some of it away.
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