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Old 02-27-2015, 09:01 AM   #7771
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. What's diff about the 2.0 balls in the eight. We all have the hard anodized balls in the scte they hold up ok but the plastic wears. Sounds like your saying the plastic only compresses so far then gets tougher with larger balls ?
My experience was the aluminum balls wore, not the plastic. I run on dirt tracks, not clay and the abrasiveness of the dirt was wearing the aluminum. Also happened on my SCTE 2.0 with the "HA" balls. I don't know why the 8ight balls last longer but they do.

The balls from the 8ight 2.0 are the same diameter as the SCTE balls but the camber link balls are longer. The steering link balls are identical in size between 8ight (all models) and SCTE. The inner link balls will interchange fine with a slightly longer screw on the shock tower. The outer link balls are too long to fit between the ears of the SCTE hubs so I shortened them. Possibly could be done with a file or a dremel, but I used a milling machine (which I know is not something most people have handy).
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:23 AM   #7772
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hacker. Ive read alot of this thread recently and have noticed alot of others talking about it also,Just seems like such a dirt cheap part to fix and make better.So your saying the plastics including the ball ends are all better with the 2.3? We can control the trucks with slop also,but not as well as when they are tight and camber, toe,steering all hold true.

The 2.0 scte is one of the best sc class out there. Just a couple things to address to make it so much less maintenance pain in the butt. We really dont mind using the much better techno axles,cvds,driveshafts.mip spur gear Xray diff washers,or mip diff rebuilds.kghdz front dual bearing support. But its surprising how many guys dont know these critical mods at other tracks ive been to and these scte sound and look like a rolling disaster. So many of these are being used like this,it just gives the whole class a bad name in alot of places imho. Most these parts would be VERY cheap to make better

Ive had some success with heat treating all the stock axels,cvds,driveshafts,pins. A molded plastic front motor carrier with 2 bearings would work fine as well. just do the easy stuff at least.

ta-man...very good info,strange that those balls would be made any different,youd think losi would use the same material if they were better. tekno or mip should sell full ball end kits that work with the stock bolts,Everyone already has ti turnbuckes,seems unwise for mip to package them that way.the little seperate standoffs dont make any sense either,why make it harder,suppose to be better and less difficult in the a/m

Last edited by ResultsRC; 02-27-2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:13 AM   #7773
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hacker. Ive read alot of this thread recently and have noticed alot of others talking about it also,Just seems like such a dirt cheap part to fix and make better.So your saying the plastics including the ball ends are all better with the 2.3? We can control the trucks with slop also,but not as well as when they are tight and camber, toe,steering all hold true.

The 2.0 scte is one of the best sc class out there. Just a couple things to address to make it so much less maintenance pain in the butt. We really dont mind using the much better techno axles,cvds,driveshafts.mip spur gear Xray diff washers,or mip diff rebuilds.kghdz front dual bearing support. But its surprising how many guys dont know these critical mods at other tracks ive been to and these scte sound and look like a rolling disaster. So many of these are being used like this,it just gives the whole class a bad name in alot of places imho. Most these parts would be VERY cheap to make better
It is interesting to me that you call many of these "much better" and "critical mods". It is a 2 time national champion and it wasnt using any of those items. However, the updated truck is showing even better wear than the prior generation in both the plastic and metal parts. I was sure to go through each part and make it as good as I could prior to moving to my new role. I do use the MIP spur myself but just to gear differently and because it is quieter and I like that. With both MIP and Robinson making the spurs now, we feel we dont need to make other options.

Many SCTE's sound like a rolling disaster because they are used and abused and keep working well and that is what the class is at most places. It isnt a precision class at most places. Now there are some tracks that it is. Also, I can tell you the updated truck is much quieter now with the ring and pinion gear mesh closely examined.

Anyhow, what and all I really care about is that people are having fun and enjoying themselves with little to no headache and the updated truck goes a step further in this department.
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Old 02-27-2015, 02:41 PM   #7774
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I’ve been biting my tongue to the point of bleed. I was not going to comment, but it was driving me up the wall. And, quite possibly I am way off base here, but this has been mentioned so many times now.

I’d rather the team folks say nothing than ‘it is a 2 time national champion’ so obviously there is nothing wrong here. I’d rather hear that something will use completely different materials on the next pass, with a different part number (or appended with v2 to differentiate it) than saying we made improvements. We have no way of telling we are buying these ‘improved’ parts.

I haven’t felt one of these trucks which won the championships, but I have a feeling they are not running with a slop like most of us. Again, I could be wrong here. But the championship drivers have resources most of us common folk don’t.

Most of us are not sponsored and paying $80/year to replace the rod ends and balls is not chump change. I run my truck until the first rod end literally slide off of the ball. Then I replace them all at the cost of $40. I do this twice a year. Not quite apples to apples, but I have been running my Mugen buggy for 2 years. Although at this point it has some slop, it is much less than my SCTE half way through the rod end/ball replacement cycle. Yes the parts are bigger, but the rig is also heavier and stressed more.

Love the truck (have 3x TLR rigs), appreciate all the help from the team guys. I am very fortunate to be able to do this. But had to get this off my chest. It seems like such a minor part of the kit to improve on.
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:05 PM   #7775
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Default The SCTE Slop Fix with Steel Pivot Balls

I have to agree with rcus3r. I feel your pain. Having owned about 5 of the SCTE trucks and two of the 2.0 rigs now, I know what parts wear out fast and the balls are first to go. The aluminum and dirt grind away the plastic at a fast pace. Diff washers/shims are soon to follow. With each release of the SCTE I have waited for a fix that has yet to happen. 3 years ago I started trying everything I thought would last longer. I hate to admit it, but some TRA___S rod ends lasted a long time slop free.

Like many others, I found my own solution. The fix is to use 6.8mm steel pivot balls and a vision racing ball bearing Ackerman plate. I have been using the stock plastic rod ends with steel pivot balls from a CEN truck. The 3mm hardware/cap screws work fine. These steel balls and stock links have lasted over a year so far with minimum slop. I think HPI, Kyosho or others make a 6.8 steel pivot ball if you want to give it a try. I just used what I had in spares from an older kit.

If you always run on a groomed track with little or no loose dirt, the HA balls do last a long time. For the rest of us, we need something better.
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:47 PM   #7776
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I bought my truck used from a member here, he did something cool which works.
He put the Durango 1/8 scale turnbuckles and balls, I have zero play.

Even with the slop the Losi is the best truck out there, second would be Tekno.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:17 PM   #7777
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Default slop

I have never felt that the slop in the truck was that much of a problem,and the plastics I have never seen as sub par.I have never broken an arm, rear hub or any front suspension component on the 2.0. That being said not buying those items, I am okay with having to replace the wear items ,axels,drive shafts etc.The cost seems to even out if you look at it this way.Yes when racing full time I would replace the ano balls maybe 3 x a year. I have put this truck on the wall and run full tilt as I don't like to lift (lol) If you bash at the track and call it racing then yes your toe and camber will be affected.My truck remains on point to that regard almost constantly, does rarely change.Put your truck on the strait away with the toe and camber set correctly (WITH THE SLOP) And give it full throttle the truck will track strait as an arrow with the slop.Explain that?? The diff washers, I use mugen ones and that is fine with me! p.s. I do run on very nice groomed tracks not sand,gravel or dirt!!Cheers!
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:15 PM   #7778
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For Ryan's OCRC setup do I purchase losb2222 for the thicker rear sway bar? Or can I find a single sway bar (Tekno)? The same with the rear red springs do I need to buy losb2963 or is it possible to find the rear springs by them self (MIP)?

+.5mm rear hex's are installed in the front correct?

Thank you -Jonathan

Last edited by ragekills; 02-27-2015 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:17 PM   #7779
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Gee the weez I don't think it's that complicated. The pivot ball I.D is larger than the bolt! Maybe some metric and English comfermise but that is where all the slop is. Would it be that difficult to size hole and bolt properly.
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:52 PM   #7780
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hacker don't misinterpret my thinking. I appreciate your time in making it better in many ways. I'm just referring to the basics that would be nice certainly to see the truck have. ball ends are pennies to make. most other plastics are fine. Super durable truck. sure it tracks straight even with slop but the more important fact is how it turns with slop how true is your toe and camber going through a slop shop turn. I don't want to use larger ball ends just stronger we already have to grind down the ends of steering linkage balls and the side of front diff case to get max steering for hairpin turns . also sure a brand new championship caliber truck is tight and nice. but a well used club race truck could be too if it had better made basics.
nice to hear gear mesh and diff case plastics better. that will quite them down. please put a delron mip style spur in the kit so all the others that don't wanna upgrade it or don't know better aren't out there making insane noise and causing people to rag on sc indoor class worse. a dual bearing in the front center diff holder would eliminate alot noise and worn wobbling leaking center diffs with the small offset supported with extra bearing it would last 10 x longer
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:04 AM   #7781
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Well... it looks like a free for all, so I'll add my $0.02....
With or with out the slop, the truck is a beast and very competitive. There are lots of good trucks out there and each have their place, but I feel it's the best... with a couple of mods its nearly as durable (The Tekno is a beast...it just is... The SCTE is no potato chip, but respect where its due) and is more agile than the Tekno. Some, I feel, give the truck a competitive advantage, and some are for durability.
The MIP links remove a majority of the slop, are Titanium, and last a ton longer than the stock. (At least the stock stuff I last used which is admittedly 2 years ago) We replace the dubro ends about once a year. They give full articulation and steering and work GREAT from every perspective.
The MIP diff kit absolutely lengthens the wear life on the diffs.
The KH ctr diff mounts work great and I have them on both of our trucks, but if you really stay after the maintenance, I'm not sure they are an absolute must... We run ours HARD so I feel better and have never had center diff or bearing failure with them so...
I replace the gear boxes every 4 or 5 months along with the rear ring and pinion. The rear wears out and I've found nothing that slows that down. I keep 'em lubed and shimmed, but wear is wear. The front ring and pinion usually gets replaced with every other rear.
I like the Tekno front and rear set up and the MIP pucks system in the drive train. Keep the pucks lubed and they last fine. Replace the pucks timely and the outdrive seem to NEVER wear. My son says the truck is more responsive set up like this.... He's fast so I'll take his word (and results) for it.
The MIP spur gives tuning options, and set right, is quieter.
The MIP real shock valve / piston set up is a game changer. The rougher the track the bigger the difference. I can't speak highly enough for them. GAME CHANGER.
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:16 PM   #7782
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
I bought my truck used from a member here, he did something cool which works.
He put the Durango 1/8 scale turnbuckles and balls, I have zero play.

Even with the slop the Losi is the best truck out there, second would be Tekno.
Thanks for sharing that. I like the Durango 1/8 hardware. I will try that next time since I have those parts in spares.

There is a reason this slop topic keeps coming up again and again. It is a much needed upgrade and the SCTE guys like myself can't understand why such attention to detail continues to be overlooked. Just think how much better it could be if camber and toe were not self adjusting after a dozen lipos. Bottom line, we don't want the slop and would like to use a stock Losi or TLR part to fix it.
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:17 PM   #7783
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wicker9. you get that much of a result from the mip shock pistons upgrade? I use to rebuild the diffs with the mip kit,but never found any wear with the pins or holders,just the diff washers. A 10 pack of xray diff washers is cheaper than one mip kit.they seem to last just as long also.So does the mip rod end dubro kit come with titanium balls,or just the turnbuckels ti?
IVe never looked at durango 1/8 rod ends,are they as small as the losi
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:25 AM   #7784
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wicker9. you get that much of a result from the mip shock pistons upgrade? I use to rebuild the diffs with the mip kit,but never found any wear with the pins or holders,just the diff washers. A 10 pack of xray diff washers is cheaper than one mip kit.they seem to last just as long also.So does the mip rod end dubro kit come with titanium balls,or just the turnbuckels ti?
IVe never looked at durango 1/8 rod ends,are they as small as the losi
Just the turnbuckles are Ti... the rod ends aren't. The balls don't seem to wear as much as the plastic seems to stretch and wear over time.
I haven't tried the xray washers, but agree, the washers wear faster than any other component in the diffs by a lot.
YES! - The piston upgrade is awesome. Truck is just planted.
We run brown valves. Blue or yellow MIP spring in the front, orange TLR rear. He's at 27.5 AE all the way around. I like 30 in the front.
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:32 PM   #7785
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Wicker9, thanks for sharing about the MIP shock valves. I have looked at them but was a bit intimidated as to too much tune-ability..

I am running the current Dunbar set-up on a good size indoor 1/8 scale size track. The truck feels good but like a typical hobby guy, always willing to try something to get that extra 'oh yeah'...
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