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Old 01-14-2015, 02:22 PM   #7621
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
Ryan,
What would you tweak on this setup if you wanted the truck to be more aggressive, more twitchy. My track is tigh with a lot of 180 turns. I drove a buddies Tekno and it felt more agressive and rotated better. I know how I want the truck to drive but not sure how to connect the dots. I have your setup referenced above under the truck now. Thanks
The first thing is to make sure you have full steering throw with the alum caster blocks. Place your vehicle on the ground under its own weight and adjust the end points to the end plus about 2 clicks. The Alum caster blocks have more throw to them and I often see people not get the extra throw out of them. From there, it all depends on if you want the steering from the front or the rear. You can go to lighter front diff fluid and lighter center, maybe 5/5/5. You can use a softer front spring. You can match the rear sway bar and go down to a 2.2.

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Originally Posted by huzzler View Post
I went with the front Tekno driveshafts and Integy castor block/steering knuckles and it has a lot more steering then stock. Also Put the pivot block inserts in REAR as Front 1 up Rear .5 in. Then the FRONT block front 1 down rear 1 up. It can turn just as good as my EB48.
In all honesty and nothing to bash any other vendor for sure but the extra steering you are getting isnt form a tekno or integy part. You took toe out of the rear which makes for more rotation and then changed your front kick to only 8 degrees which is good for some flat tracks or non bumpy tracks, but that is where you got your steering from. The TLR alum caster block has more physical throw than the integy ones.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:33 PM   #7622
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
The first thing is to make sure you have full steering throw with the alum caster blocks. Place your vehicle on the ground under its own weight and adjust the end points to the end plus about 2 clicks. The Alum caster blocks have more throw to them and I often see people not get the extra throw out of them. From there, it all depends on if you want the steering from the front or the rear. You can go to lighter front diff fluid and lighter center, maybe 5/5/5. You can use a softer front spring. You can match the rear sway bar and go down to a 2.2.

.

I have full steering throw. I set it with truck on the ground. I want the steering from the front. I don't want to have to drift it to make it turn. I am going to January jam next week. I will have plenty of practice time to tweak setup.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:49 PM   #7623
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
Yes Casper. I didn't put on the 2.3 from the 8ight but I used the 2 from the scte kit. I actually took the front one completely off after running several laps. Still not satisfied.
Softer front spring would be what I try first. You can go lighter on the front diff fluid as well.

A little more front camber.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:43 AM   #7624
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
I have full steering throw. I set it with truck on the ground. I want the steering from the front. I don't want to have to drift it to make it turn. I am going to January jam next week. I will have plenty of practice time to tweak setup.
Try a shorter front camber link. That gives a bit more steering for sure on this truck.
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:08 PM   #7625
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Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
I have full steering throw. I set it with truck on the ground. I want the steering from the front. I don't want to have to drift it to make it turn. I am going to January jam next week. I will have plenty of practice time to tweak setup.
Sounds like your driving style is a lot like mine. More point and shoot. I want my truck to steer from the front. These worked for me.

Go to the original Dunford setup on Casper.-rc but use the #1 front camber link location. Use #3 pistons with 30/25 or 32.5/27.5 depending on temp and traction. If it still doesn't have enough entry steering go inside on rear camber link on hub. I also like a little drag brake usually about 5 percent. I tried the Losi alum caster blocks and went back to stock ones. The integy blocks are the same geometry as the plastic blocks so you're good there. Truck has tons of entry and mid corner steering and just enough exit steering to not push out. If the traction comes up go to 7k in the center or the truck will diff out under acceleration.
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:25 PM   #7626
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maddog what gearing are you using for Sparks?
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Old 01-15-2015, 05:43 PM   #7627
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Try a shorter front camber link. That gives a bit more steering for sure on this truck.
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Sounds like your driving style is a lot like mine. More point and shoot. I want my truck to steer from the front. These worked for me.

Go to the original Dunford setup on Casper.-rc but use the #1 front camber link location. Use #3 pistons with 30/25 or 32.5/27.5 depending on temp and traction. If it still doesn't have enough entry steering go inside on rear camber link on hub. I also like a little drag brake usually about 5 percent. I tried the Losi alum caster blocks and went back to stock ones. The integy blocks are the same geometry as the plastic blocks so you're good there. Truck has tons of entry and mid corner steering and just enough exit steering to not push out. If the traction comes up go to 7k in the center or the truck will diff out under acceleration.
Thanks guys
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:23 PM   #7628
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maddog what gearing are you using for Sparks?
Keep in mind i am running a 4.5t 2 pole. 13 pinion, 41 mip spur. Or 13/40 would be fine.
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:17 AM   #7629
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Sounds like your driving style is a lot like mine. More point and shoot. I want my truck to steer from the front. These worked for me.

Go to the original Dunford setup on Casper.-rc but use the #1 front camber link location. Use #3 pistons with 30/25 or 32.5/27.5 depending on temp and traction. If it still doesn't have enough entry steering go inside on rear camber link on hub. I also like a little drag brake usually about 5 percent. I tried the Losi alum caster blocks and went back to stock ones. The integy blocks are the same geometry as the plastic blocks so you're good there. Truck has tons of entry and mid corner steering and just enough exit steering to not push out. If the traction comes up go to 7k in the center or the truck will diff out under acceleration.
#1 camber link location is for a long front camber link. Did you mean #2? I'm not being a smart*** just trying to clarify.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:02 PM   #7630
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Default Shocks

On the OCRC setup sheet it says overall shock length 89.5mm. Does that mean to measure from center top hole to center bottom hole? Thanks.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:28 PM   #7631
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On the OCRC setup sheet it says overall shock length 89.5mm. Does that mean to measure from center top hole to center bottom hole? Thanks.
yes from center of mounting to center of mounting.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:36 PM   #7632
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SCTE 2.0 in stock at RCHR. Call them. 203-575-9757
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:56 AM   #7633
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You guys need to keep this active so it don't drop so far and I got to go back a few pages to find it....................LOL
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:51 AM   #7634
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I'll keep it going... They haven't raced 4WD SC at my track for months. Couldn't stand seeing the SCTE 2.0 sit on the shelf! Instead of selling it, I made myself an outdoor truggy. Gotta replace the 8ight e stickers on the side, but they'll do for now. Also replaced the hood sticker for the Ten SCTE sticker. This thing is so much fun. Even ran it around on the track last night and it was surprisingly good. SCTE 2.0, Proline 2.8 Trenchers, 8ight-t e 3.0 body and wing. Used the wing and body mounts from the 8ight as well.
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Old 01-23-2015, 04:00 AM   #7635
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that does look pretty cool......
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