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Old 12-23-2014, 02:04 PM   #7531
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Been having a nose dive issue for the longest time. Sporadic. Even sometimes down a long straight into a turn, it feels/looks like the truck is slamming on the brakes. I've tried everything to fix it. Rebuilt shocks, diffs, suspension pins... About everything. I even talked to the Tekin guys to make sure my ESC was setup right. Drag Brake is on zero. The truck used to be mint, now it's got this issue.

Today I found this (see picture). The "A" wire between the motor and ESC is partially broken, right next to the ESC. It's not hitting anything. Just partially broken. Could that cause things to short? I'm replacing, but wanted to get your opinions.
What do the drive cups and the cvd pins look like? They may be binding causing the braking feeling.
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #7532
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Default Chipping Teeth on the Ring Gear

Lately I've been going through a lot of teeth on the ring gear in the rear diff. I have replaced the housing, ring and pinion gears, bearings, and changed to the aluminum bearing holders. The only thing I can think of is the gear mesh. I have been pulling the pinion all the way out and then tightening down the driveshaft to keep it from moving in. But I afraid this is causing too much of a gap between the teeth pairs. Pushing it in and tightening the driveshaft just allows it to pull back out and now the pinion is moving in and out.

How does one properly shim them? I've read around on a few threads but they weren't very descriptive of what shims to use where and how much. Should the two gear be as tight as possible?
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:38 PM   #7533
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Lately I've been going through a lot of teeth on the ring gear in the rear diff. I have replaced the housing, ring and pinion gears, bearings, and changed to the aluminum bearing holders. The only thing I can think of is the gear mesh. I have been pulling the pinion all the way out and then tightening down the driveshaft to keep it from moving in. But I afraid this is causing too much of a gap between the teeth pairs. Pushing it in and tightening the driveshaft just allows it to pull back out and now the pinion is moving in and out.

How does one properly shim them? I've read around on a few threads but they weren't very descriptive of what shims to use where and how much. Should the two gear be as tight as possible?
Usually you shim the diff over so the ring gear tightens the mesh, but I've also shimmed the pinion in slightly when using the plastic inserts. You want as little mesh as possible without binding. Check it with the diff installed and screws tightened on the case. Hold the driveshaft and rock the diff back and forth and you should feel a tiny bit of play. Or hold the out drives and rock the pinion. When you think you have it right spin the diff and make sure there is no binding.
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:52 PM   #7534
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Usually you shim the diff over so the ring gear tightens the mesh, but I've also shimmed the pinion in slightly when using the plastic inserts. You want as little mesh as possible without binding. Check it with the diff installed and screws tightened on the case. Hold the driveshaft and rock the diff back and forth and you should feel a tiny bit of play. Or hold the out drives and rock the pinion. When you think you have it right spin the diff and make sure there is no binding.
"plastic inserts"?
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:09 PM   #7535
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"plastic inserts"?
The inserts you put on the diff to fit it into the case. The stock plastic ones aren't adjustable for mesh. The aluminum losi ones are.
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:12 PM   #7536
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The inserts you put on the diff to fit it into the case. The stock plastic ones aren't adjustable for mesh. The aluminum losi ones are.
Gotcha. I have upgraded to the aluminum bearing inserts, but I didn't know they were adjustable. I don't seen anything about them to adjust.

I did figure out the shims to shim the diff over. I must have missed the shims during the original build and never did know what those shims were for. Thankfully I hung on to them. Since I have the MIP outdrives, I had to tear apart the diff to get the shims past the outdrives and on the inside of the bearings. I used two shims and put it back together to test the mesh. It seems to work very well.

Before I assembled everything, I press the pinion to the front and lock down the driveshaft to prevent backwards movement into the diff to prevent binding. With the diff shimmed over, this set up a really tight mesh but not so tight that it caused it to bind or be noisy.

I really feel this will vastly help the breaking of teeth on the ring gear.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:40 PM   #7537
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i put the shims between the bearing and diff case. takes a couple times removing the bearing but when you get it set properly no more messing with shims. i also shimmed the pinion to sit deeper in the diff housing.
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:06 PM   #7538
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Originally Posted by ctuinstra View Post
Gotcha. I have upgraded to the aluminum bearing inserts, but I didn't know they were adjustable. I don't seen anything about them to adjust.

I did figure out the shims to shim the diff over. I must have missed the shims during the original build and never did know what those shims were for. Thankfully I hung on to them. Since I have the MIP outdrives, I had to tear apart the diff to get the shims past the outdrives and on the inside of the bearings. I used two shims and put it back together to test the mesh. It seems to work very well.

Before I assembled everything, I press the pinion to the front and lock down the driveshaft to prevent backwards movement into the diff to prevent binding. With the diff shimmed over, this set up a really tight mesh but not so tight that it caused it to bind or be noisy.

I really feel this will vastly help the breaking of teeth on the ring gear.

Thanks for the help.
Cool. Glad it helped.
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:21 PM   #7539
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Picked up a set of MIP pucks for my 2.0 last week, previously I had the Tekno driveshafts on it, immediately I could feel a signifigant difference in weight between the 2, but when I ran it... It was too quiet!! Seriously, it sounds like a 2wd or the belt driven AE now!! But it was very smooth, I couldn't tell if it helped acceleration or not, the track was very dry and dusty.
Time will tell when I take it to the indoor tracks, but so far I like them, i'm assuming its being more efficient with the noise level down, more power is being put to the wheels instead of being wasted making all that racket!
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:14 AM   #7540
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
Picked up a set of MIP pucks for my 2.0 last week, previously I had the Tekno driveshafts on it, immediately I could feel a signifigant difference in weight between the 2, but when I ran it... It was too quiet!! Seriously, it sounds like a 2wd or the belt driven AE now!! But it was very smooth, I couldn't tell if it helped acceleration or not, the track was very dry and dusty.
Time will tell when I take it to the indoor tracks, but so far I like them, i'm assuming its being more efficient with the noise level down, more power is being put to the wheels instead of being wasted making all that racket!
Are you running the stock center diff mount or the king headz mounts?
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Old 12-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #7541
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Arrow MIP Puck for SCTE 2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
Picked up a set of MIP pucks for my 2.0 last week, previously I had the Tekno driveshafts on it, immediately I could feel a signifigant difference in weight between the 2, but when I ran it... It was too quiet!! Seriously, it sounds like a 2wd or the belt driven AE now!! But it was very smooth, I couldn't tell if it helped acceleration or not, the track was very dry and dusty.
Time will tell when I take it to the indoor tracks, but so far I like them, i'm assuming its being more efficient with the noise level down, more power is being put to the wheels instead of being wasted making all that racket!
Let me start by saying MIP makes some of the best and most thought out RC related products. With this center Pucks system they definitely hit a home run. I was skeptical they they could handle the power and abuse dealt by Me myself and the Tekin 4600 power plant. I was pleasantly surprised! I thought how can the plastic pin covers endure the rigors of racing. I have MONTHS of racing and just only changed the front , not only is it quiet the drive line and reduce rotating weight. It also Lasts and Lasts. So do not hesitate to use this as an upgrade. I recommend them to any serious racer.
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Are you running the stock center diff mount or the king headz mounts?
I run the kings head dual bearing Mount ( front) helps keep the out drive from premature wear and wobble. The motor mount I run is a Elete unit I think no longer made. Never slip's.. I have spare sper's and never need to replace them . I'm happy with the truck.
What got me yesterday was the ALU. rear hub's .
Went to change bearings after I had yet another TLR drive shaft split and loosen the pin ( That goes into the out drive). So I try and press out the bearings and the bearing falls apart leaving the outer race stuck inside.
I was successful after fabricating special too to remove one. But the other I warped and could not use.. So I have one Plastic and one Alum rear hub.
My OCD self feels like I have two different sox on. LOL In conclusion I am excited that there will be some Performance upgrades available in the near future. I'm a TLR guy my whole life. I'm now 50 years old and can still make the A Main in most cases... lol I have an Maintenance program to support the 6 yes SIX classes I run every weekend .
I run mostly Outdoor Med. /Large Clay tracks. I'm not a sponsored driver... why.... as crazy as it sounds I don't mind paying and supporting the Hobby. I Work on the track and help all that approach me .
Merry X Mass and a Happy new year to all.....
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Old 12-24-2014, 08:13 AM   #7542
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Are you running the stock center diff mount or the king headz mounts?
I have the KHZ mounts, front and rear.
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Old 12-24-2014, 09:08 AM   #7543
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Originally Posted by XXXDad View Post
Let me start by saying MIP makes some of the best and most thought out RC related products. With this center Pucks system they definitely hit a home run. I was skeptical they they could handle the power and abuse dealt by Me myself and the Tekin 4600 power plant. I was pleasantly surprised! I thought how can the plastic pin covers endure the rigors of racing. I have MONTHS of racing and just only changed the front , not only is it quiet the drive line and reduce rotating weight. It also Lasts and Lasts. So do not hesitate to use this as an upgrade. I recommend them to any serious racer.

I run the kings head dual bearing Mount ( front) helps keep the out drive from premature wear and wobble. The motor mount I run is a Elete unit I think no longer made. Never slip's.. I have spare sper's and never need to replace them . I'm happy with the truck.
What got me yesterday was the ALU. rear hub's .
Went to change bearings after I had yet another TLR drive shaft split and loosen the pin ( That goes into the out drive). So I try and press out the bearings and the bearing falls apart leaving the outer race stuck inside.
I was successful after fabricating special too to remove one. But the other I warped and could not use.. So I have one Plastic and one Alum rear hub.
My OCD self feels like I have two different sox on. LOL In conclusion I am excited that there will be some Performance upgrades available in the near future. I'm a TLR guy my whole life. I'm now 50 years old and can still make the A Main in most cases... lol I have an Maintenance program to support the 6 yes SIX classes I run every weekend .
I run mostly Outdoor Med. /Large Clay tracks. I'm not a sponsored driver... why.... as crazy as it sounds I don't mind paying and supporting the Hobby. I Work on the track and help all that approach me .
Merry X Mass and a Happy new year to all.....
I am sorry you had some bearings fail on you. I would definitely recommend running either both alum or both plastic rear hubs. They have a slightly different feel to them so your truck will feel a bit off with different ones on each side.
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Old 12-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #7544
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Originally Posted by ctuinstra View Post
Lately I've been going through a lot of teeth on the ring gear in the rear diff. I have replaced the housing, ring and pinion gears, bearings, and changed to the aluminum bearing holders. The only thing I can think of is the gear mesh. I have been pulling the pinion all the way out and then tightening down the driveshaft to keep it from moving in. But I afraid this is causing too much of a gap between the teeth pairs. Pushing it in and tightening the driveshaft just allows it to pull back out and now the pinion is moving in and out.

How does one properly shim them? I've read around on a few threads but they weren't very descriptive of what shims to use where and how much. Should the two gear be as tight as possible?
It is important with the extreme power we are putting through these things and the amount of brakes many use to shim the diff to very close to no back lash. I will say though that if you feel your ring gear has broken prematurely, please contact horizon customer service and they will send you out a new one. The ring gears should break that easily, that is for sure.
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #7545
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I have the KHZ mounts, front and rear.
Ok was asking because I run the kh mounts and go months without wearing out the pucks, but some guys here have reported very fast wear when using the stock mounts. When I recommended the kh parts I was basically told I didn't know what I was talking about by some tool.
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