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Old 11-10-2014, 03:17 AM   #7351
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I just picked up one of these...a used roller...

I've got all other current TLR 1/10's and an 8e3.0....have had a lot of success with the 1/10....just don't like the heavy 8th scales on our tight track...time to try this truck....

On the current setups, I see notes on the bottom of the page about spacing the rear hex's out...OK, I think I understand that.....but what's the note mean about witness marks and a dremel?
You can also run these rear hex's if you don't want to space out your stockers.
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...-Width/p275670
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:51 AM   #7352
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Gratz on the TQ and win. Are you going to the race this Saturday at Sparks, the 15th? I did a lot of changes to mine, hope the changes make it better to drive, or at least I can drive it better.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:55 AM   #7353
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The newest Ryan Dunford setup has this trucked dialed. I was able to TQ and Win at the CRCRC WRL 4.2 at the Ohio RC Factory. This was my first ever TQ and Win at a WRL event. TLR sweep of the podium.
Like I said on facebook your truck was on rails, you almost lapped the field in the main. It was some really good runs. I'll have to have you take a look at my truck next time we race together, I was running the red and black truck with red wheels and my buddy adam wiford had my backup truck it was white with red blood splatter paint. He made the A and was on a few tq paces with it. My truck I think I have something going on with the steering servo. I am going to go through it this week.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:12 AM   #7354
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Gratz on the TQ and win. Are you going to the race this Saturday at Sparks, the 15th? I did a lot of changes to mine, hope the changes make it better to drive, or at least I can drive it better.
Taking a week off. I will be there for the Wrl 4.3

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Originally Posted by bigemike View Post
Like I said on facebook your truck was on rails, you almost lapped the field in the main. It was some really good runs. I'll have to have you take a look at my truck next time we race together, I was running the red and black truck with red wheels and my buddy adam wiford had my backup truck it was white with red blood splatter paint. He made the A and was on a few tq paces with it. My truck I think I have something going on with the steering servo. I am going to go through it this week.
Thanks man! Yep i remember you were chasing my dads orange truck for the bump spot. And I have no problem taking a look at it the next time we race. I would double check the servo saver is tight. There is slop in the steering thats what makes this truck fast and you can't do much about that.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:07 AM   #7355
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Originally Posted by Bivens View Post
I just picked up one of these...a used roller...

I've got all other current TLR 1/10's and an 8e3.0....have had a lot of success with the 1/10....just don't like the heavy 8th scales on our tight track...time to try this truck....

On the current setups, I see notes on the bottom of the page about spacing the rear hex's out...OK, I think I understand that.....but what's the note mean about witness marks and a dremel?
TLR made hexes so you don't need to space the rear end.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332014
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:10 PM   #7356
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Default Rebuilt SCTE Differentials Leaking

My SCTE I thought had the new HD diffs and I noticed after running a whole afternoon at the track (now about 4 days later) that my front and rear diffs have some oily mess around the outdrives. Not a lot but it's still there. I filled the diffs full when reassembling according to some instructions I was following. Is this a problem? What would you do?
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:26 AM   #7357
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My SCTE I thought had the new HD diffs and I noticed after running a whole afternoon at the track (now about 4 days later) that my front and rear diffs have some oily mess around the outdrives. Not a lot but it's still there. I filled the diffs full when reassembling according to some instructions I was following. Is this a problem? What would you do?
If they are not the hd diffs i would either get the hd diff or take your current ones apart and glue the metal hex into the plastic case. You want a nice consistent diff every time you drive or rebuild them so yes this is a problem.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:46 AM   #7358
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
LOSB4109 are the originals if you need something in a bind.
That worked! Thanks.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:54 AM   #7359
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Not slamming on TLR / Losi at all but I recently got some new parts for my truck because I went back to the stock 2.0 chassis from the MIP one I got a new stock rear bumper and it had no hardware in it, I got new side mud guards that go on the chassis, and nerf bars and again no hardware. I have in the past ran other brands and anytime I ever got something new they always came with the screws/nuts whatever was required. It just really shocks me that a truck of this caliber does not come with what is needed to mount new parts.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:14 AM   #7360
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Not slamming on TLR / Losi at all but I recently got some new parts for my truck because I went back to the stock 2.0 chassis from the MIP one I got a new stock rear bumper and it had no hardware in it, I got new side mud guards that go on the chassis, and nerf bars and again no hardware. I have in the past ran other brands and anytime I ever got something new they always came with the screws/nuts whatever was required. It just really shocks me that a truck of this caliber does not come with what is needed to mount new parts.
I apologize but we have never included any hardware with a true replacement part as its meant as just that, to replace the part that broke. That would mean that you have the hardware from the part that broke. It keeps the pricing as low as we can get it and helps the typical user with just the part they require rather than paying extra for extra hardware they dont need.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:19 AM   #7361
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I apologize but we have never included any hardware with a true replacement part as its meant as just that, to replace the part that broke. That would mean that you have the hardware from the part that broke. It keeps the pricing as low as we can get it and helps the typical user with just the part they require rather than paying extra for extra hardware they dont need.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:01 AM   #7362
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I agree with that theory, but in my case I needed the HDW. because I am not replacing a broken part. I bought a screw kit that was supposed to be for the 2.0 from Jammin products and it was a sad excuse of a screw kit.
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:13 AM   #7363
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I apologize but we have never included any hardware with a true replacement part as its meant as just that, to replace the part that broke. That would mean that you have the hardware from the part that broke. It keeps the pricing as low as we can get it and helps the typical user with just the part they require rather than paying extra for extra hardware they dont need.

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Old 11-14-2014, 10:49 AM   #7364
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I agree with that theory, but in my case I needed the HDW. because I am not replacing a broken part. I bought a screw kit that was supposed to be for the 2.0 from Jammin products and it was a sad excuse of a screw kit.
You are the exception and not the rule however. I do understand your frustration thought.

all the hardward is sold separately and can be found on the exploded parts sheet that comes with the kit.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...oded_MULTI.pdf
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:59 PM   #7365
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Differentials seem to be leaking, more so the center and its leaking on the opposite side of the spur. I've replaced the o-ring and yet again leaks after a lap. Any fixes? Could I possibly be over filling them? I'm sure the front and rears are leaking as well as they look a little oily. Frustrated that my whole time at the track today was spent trying to fix the differentials.
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