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Old 10-06-2014, 01:02 PM   #7246
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Going to post this here too: Has anyone else experienced bad suspension binding in the rear end? Truck is a 2.0. I'm getting absolutely no rebound. Just rebuilt the shocks. Same as before on old oil. Bent hinge pins?
Could be hinge pins but would say not likely. Do not over tighten the upper shock nuts as this can crush the shock bushing and bind the shock movement. also check your sway bar can move freely.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:38 PM   #7247
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Arms are pretty free. No binding and go to full droop no problem. What shock setup are you guys running? Maybe I'll start playing with the bypass...
check your orings. They may be swollen and with the plastic spacer, they have no where to go other than constricting the shock shaft. That will make it appear to bind. I would replace the orings and use some green slime or o-slip which will help to keep the rings from swelling.
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:27 AM   #7248
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Could be hinge pins but would say not likely. Do not over tighten the upper shock nuts as this can crush the shock bushing and bind the shock movement. also check your sway bar can move freely.
Thanks - yes upper nuts were pretty tight. I'm waiting for some new parts to come in to reassemble the rear end. Hopefully this helps some.

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check your orings. They may be swollen and with the plastic spacer, they have no where to go other than constricting the shock shaft. That will make it appear to bind. I would replace the orings and use some green slime or o-slip which will help to keep the rings from swelling.
Thanks. What exactly do you mean by swelling?
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:55 AM   #7249
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Thanks - yes upper nuts were pretty tight. I'm waiting for some new parts to come in to reassemble the rear end. Hopefully this helps some.



Thanks. What exactly do you mean by swelling?
I just install the nuts until they touch the bushing and stop and then check that the shock cap wiggles on the bushing. You don't want to overtighten these. This is a very common mistake.

The SCTE uses x rings and they really don't swell. This is more of a problem with o-rings where the o-rings will swell up due to contact with the silicone oil and well and this can cause binding of the o-ring on the shock shaft. I have had SCTE o-rings in my shocks for well over a year at a time and significant swelling or binding so I doubt this is the issue.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:34 AM   #7250
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I just install the nuts until they touch the bushing and stop and then check that the shock cap wiggles on the bushing. You don't want to overtighten these. This is a very common mistake.

The SCTE uses x rings and they really don't swell. This is more of a problem with o-rings where the o-rings will swell up due to contact with the silicone oil and well and this can cause binding of the o-ring on the shock shaft. I have had SCTE o-rings in my shocks for well over a year at a time and significant swelling or binding so I doubt this is the issue.
Thanks Casper for the explaination. I also have issues like that but they are built with orings not xrings. Could it be cause from not enough lubricant on the xrings? Such as green slime or o-slip?
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:58 AM   #7251
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Thanks Casper for the explaination. I also have issues like that but they are built with orings not xrings. Could it be cause from not enough lubricant on the xrings? Such as green slime or o-slip?
I assume we are talking about 0-rings still. I think it has to do with the material of the o-ring. Not all manufactures use the same material or even within a company across platforms. I feel the shape of the xring as well has some to do with it as when an x-ring swells it does not grow in the same way an 0-ring does. There are lots of advantages to the x-ring design.
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:46 AM   #7252
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is there any difference in the drive shafts from the stock 2.0 chassis, to the MIP chassis the ones that go between the center diff out to the front and rear diffs.?
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Old 10-09-2014, 12:03 PM   #7253
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No they are the same. The 1.0 scte had the same driveshafts but swapped around F to R
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Old 10-09-2014, 01:29 PM   #7254
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Ran the new setup last night. My first time racing in almost 2 months and it was on a green track, took a few packs to get the feel of it and the new track.
Only 4 guys last night, I TQ'd by 2 laps and was walking away with the main when I decided to make it fun, I waited on my buddy in 2nd and we beat and banged each other all the way to the end, the most fun i've had in a while! I ended up taking the win, barely... my buddy gave me a good dump and run about 2 turns from the loop, as I was getting marshalled, he crashed himself, so I got away clean.

Truck drove awesome, I ran the new setup to the letter except for the sway bars, I just got them yesterday and didnt have time to install them. I was also running HB MegaBites in pink compound on a hard pack/slick/green indoor track.
Hobbywing 4000kv geared 15/39 (MIP spur)
Im pretty sure if the track wasnt slick it would've been pulling wheel stands.
My only complaint was it seemed to lack off power steering and had a definite push, probably the green track.
Too many variables and too little time to really narrow it down, all in all, great setup.
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:18 AM   #7255
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Ran the new setup last night. My first time racing in almost 2 months and it was on a green track, took a few packs to get the feel of it and the new track.
Only 4 guys last night, I TQ'd by 2 laps and was walking away with the main when I decided to make it fun, I waited on my buddy in 2nd and we beat and banged each other all the way to the end, the most fun i've had in a while! I ended up taking the win, barely... my buddy gave me a good dump and run about 2 turns from the loop, as I was getting marshalled, he crashed himself, so I got away clean.

Truck drove awesome, I ran the new setup to the letter except for the sway bars, I just got them yesterday and didnt have time to install them. I was also running HB MegaBites in pink compound on a hard pack/slick/green indoor track.
Hobbywing 4000kv geared 15/39 (MIP spur)
Im pretty sure if the track wasnt slick it would've been pulling wheel stands.
My only complaint was it seemed to lack off power steering and had a definite push, probably the green track.
Too many variables and too little time to really narrow it down, all in all, great setup.
Def change the sway bars. They are that final piece that let you drive the truck much harder. Plus the front is only .1 thicker than the rear versus the traditional .2 difference most run today and so that helps with steering.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:37 PM   #7256
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whats the best place to start for indoor track we are usually on super soft deja vu's or pink beams
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Old 10-10-2014, 09:27 PM   #7257
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Casper or hacker,
On the newest setup you have "0" inserts on the inner and outer hinge pin blocks with the new 15deg aluminum caster blocks, what should we use if we are still using the stock plastic units? Would it be the same? Thanks, I plan on getting them soon but I have to get 2 sets when I do and it's hard to justify spending $100 on them haha.
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:02 AM   #7258
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Casper or hacker,
On the newest setup you have "0" inserts on the inner and outer hinge pin blocks with the new 15deg aluminum caster blocks, what should we use if we are still using the stock plastic units? Would it be the same? Thanks, I plan on getting them soon but I have to get 2 sets when I do and it's hard to justify spending $100 on them haha.
Stock plastic in the front are 0,0 and the rear would 3 antisquat and 3 toe in. So same as the current setup so you dont need the upgrade.
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:15 PM   #7259
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
Ran the new setup last night. My first time racing in almost 2 months and it was on a green track, took a few packs to get the feel of it and the new track.
Only 4 guys last night, I TQ'd by 2 laps and was walking away with the main when I decided to make it fun, I waited on my buddy in 2nd and we beat and banged each other all the way to the end, the most fun i've had in a while! I ended up taking the win, barely... my buddy gave me a good dump and run about 2 turns from the loop, as I was getting marshalled, he crashed himself, so I got away clean.

Truck drove awesome, I ran the new setup to the letter except for the sway bars, I just got them yesterday and didnt have time to install them. I was also running HB MegaBites in pink compound on a hard pack/slick/green indoor track.
Hobbywing 4000kv geared 15/39 (MIP spur)
Im pretty sure if the track wasnt slick it would've been pulling wheel stands.
My only complaint was it seemed to lack off power steering and had a definite push, probably the green track.
Too many variables and too little time to really narrow it down, all in all, great setup.
Ya, Doogie that sounds Fun !Been runnin 4 wd buggy lately but do have a 2.0 in parts, that's starting to resemble a race truck again.
My old truck had so much steering off and on it was stupid,too bad I sold it LOL I Miss not having to lift and still not breaking parts
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:42 AM   #7260
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Casper or hacker,
On the newest setup you have "0" inserts on the inner and outer hinge pin blocks with the new 15deg aluminum caster blocks, what should we use if we are still using the stock plastic units? Would it be the same? Thanks, I plan on getting them soon but I have to get 2 sets when I do and it's hard to justify spending $100 on them haha.
I would still leave the inserts at 0/o in the front. The reality is we were trying to give you some of the great stuff we learned with the 3.0 8ight line with those new aluminum caster blocks. You get the 15 degree but you also get more steering throw and we moved the spindle up 2mm to give more on power steering. So, overall, you get more steering and more rear grip where its needed. They are pretty significant.

The biggest thing is you have to figure out the droop with the new setup if you are using the plastic caster blocks as the spindle isnt raised and since we use the shock to measure droop, droop with the same length shock with the 2 different caster blocks will be very different.
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