Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Does anyone know if the TLR tuning kits for the 2.0 come with shock towers? and if so what difference is there from the 2.0 stock ones, and the MIP ones? I got a truck on trade and trying to figure out what all is on it. For some reason I can only get the ride height down to around 30 and most of the setups I see are around 25-27, my brother has a stock 2.0 and can get down to the lower numbers, we measured and compared shocks and that are the same and we run the same shocks. Cannot figure out what the difference is I have the MIP chassis but that should not be a height difference.

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

are you running the same spring as him? I would try to put his springs on yours to see if your ride height drops any. It sounds like its running a stiffer spring.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

yes we both are running the same springs they were purchased a couple weeks apart but same spring sets, and weight.

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Adjust the droop nd you will be able to lower it more

hpiaddict

iTrader: (17)

+1 also check the shock eyelets and make sure that yours are not unscrewed some. Also check and make sure that you have the same distance from the preload to the shock cap.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

The only thing that will affect ride height is how heavy the truck is and the pre-load collar. So, different motors or batteries, etc.

This is of course you dont have o-rings sticking or rod ends binding or your lower screws(the two really long ones) screwed in too tight pinching the arms(this is very common). When those screws are too tight, the arms are literally pinched between the two toe blocks and do not move freely. Your arms should move back and forth on the hinge pin ever so slightly.

MIP MATT

Hey Ryan I found a good little fix for the pinched arms issue. Some of the MIP Bypass Tuning valves work awesome as a little spacer that goes inbetween the diff case and the A (front) and D (rear) hinge pin blocks. And presto, no longer do you have to worry about over tightening the screws. http://miponline.com/store/mip12129.html

They are easily modified and come in different thicknesses if needed.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Hey all, something we have been working on is making the scte so you can drive it harder and in turn have more confidence and produce faster lap times. Here is the latest indoor setup sheet. You will notice a thicker front sway bar, the one from the 8 will work if you dont want to make your own. This is what myself and Jake Thayer and Casper have all been running over the last month or so and it is fast.

MIP MATT

+1 on this , for the past 1.5 years I have run a modified Mugen 2.3 bar. Got the idea from Ty and Gord Tessmann at the Roar Nationals when it was at West Coast Rc. Great on high bite tracks when you want to push it or on low bite when you have a ton of steering.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Going to sparks Park tomorrow for some practice I hope to get something worked out on my truck. The ride height thing only bothers me because I cannot figure out why I can't get it down as low as others are running. As far as handling goes I liked it where its at I just need more confidence in my driving and track time, as I have only raced it 2 times so far. And getting it down farther where it should be may help even more if I like it now. I have 37.5 oil in my shocks and seen some of Matt's were running 50wt. so heavier oil may also improve the handling, man I got a lot to learn...

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

+1. I have been running a modified 8ight 2.5 bar in the front and 2.3 rear for the past 8 months indoor and outdoor with excellent results.

FabsSpeed

my Losi is finally done and did some testing yesterday... runs perfect

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

well I went and did some practicing yesterday and I'm still about 3-4 secs off from the a-main guys ...... lol got some work to do

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

Casper or Hacker... quick question.
Are you guys running the .5mm hexes on the front and rear, or just one?

For some reason I thought I read where you were only running them on the rear, then I noticed on the newest setup sheet you mention the hexes and that the arms and steering links will have marks on them, and to Dremel accordingly.

That makes me think you're running them on all 4 corners.
Just a little confused, thanks for the help.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

We are only running the .5 hexes in the rear. They will make the truck too wide if you put them in the front. The new caster blocks are the reason for the possible need to dremel the front end.