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Old 09-07-2014, 11:47 AM   #7126
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anyone have a parts list to convert a 1.0 to a 2.0?
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:10 PM   #7127
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Thanks Matt I'll see what matches my track I race at and give them a try, I am new to the off road racing but been in RC oval racing a long time before this
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:26 PM   #7128
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Hey guys, tried out the scte 2.0 for first time yesterday and truck was awesome with the exception of every jump I hit it kept nose diving, any tips on how to prevent this, thanks
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:54 PM   #7129
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Hey guys, tried out the scte 2.0 for first time yesterday and truck was awesome with the exception of every jump I hit it kept nose diving, any tips on how to prevent this, thanks
Stay on power when you jump and reduce drag brake if you have it.
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:29 PM   #7130
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Thanks
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:15 AM   #7131
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I noticed the same thing on mine, it was wanting to nose dive on every jump no matter how big or small it was. I run no drag break, but I did find if I would hit the throttle in air it did help a lot. I was jumping and just letting it do what it wanted to and not trying to control it in the air, I am switching from dirt oval where there are no jumps so I never though of it at first. got a learning curve in making the switch.
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:43 AM   #7132
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Originally Posted by TLRrunner View Post
anyone have a parts list to convert a 1.0 to a 2.0?
Chassis plate
Chassis braces
Side guards with the screws (they come separately)
Battery strap and mount
Servo mount
Thats pretty close to all you'll need, am I forgetting anything else guys?
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:29 AM   #7133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLRrunner View Post
anyone have a parts list to convert a 1.0 to a 2.0?
Here is a list of the parts I used to convert my SCTE1.0.

Battery Thumb Screws (2) TLR231003
Battery Stops w Posts (2) TLR231004
Servo Mount TLR231005
Chassis Battery Pads TLR231007
MIP Pro4mance Chassis Braces #13249
HA Chassis TLR231009
Mud Guard w Side Guard (2) TLR231000

Plus some extra screws:
5-40 x 1/2" FH Screws (10) - 4x Battery Tray Installation LOSA6271
4-40 Aluminum Mini-Nuts (10) - 4 x Side Bumper Installation LOSA6306
4-40 x 5/8" Button Head Screw (6) 4 x Front Body Mount Assembly, 4 x Body Mount Installation , 4 x Side Bumper Installation LOSA6283

Optional:
Body Mount Spacers (4) TLR231006
Carbon Front Tower SCTE 2.0 TLR234001
Carbon Rear Tower SCTE 2.0 TLR234002
Team Losi Racing Differential Top Plate w/Tunnel TLR231001
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:09 AM   #7134
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thanks a lot everyone!
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:37 AM   #7135
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
I noticed the same thing on mine, it was wanting to nose dive on every jump no matter how big or small it was. I run no drag break, but I did find if I would hit the throttle in air it did help a lot. I was jumping and just letting it do what it wanted to and not trying to control it in the air, I am switching from dirt oval where there are no jumps so I never though of it at first. got a learning curve in making the switch.
Yes there is a lot to the art of jumping. Throttle gets nose up and brake brings the nose down. Wiggling the wheels will affect the roll of the car as well but that is more advanced. 4wd cars react to throttle inputs in the air much more than 2wd cars for obvious reasons but same principles apply. For guys coming from 2wd cars to 4wd cars due to how you have to take off from jumps they feel 4wd jump nose down and I suppose they do, but you just need to stay on throttle a little longer with a 4wd car.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:58 PM   #7136
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I'd definitely recommend the MIP aluminum Center Braces as the stock ones tend to wear out or bend/break. Also the diff kits are a help as they help the efficiency of the diffs with machined parts that don't break down after a couple runs. Keeps the oil clean and will probably last the life of the truck. Will need three kits to cover the car

http://miponline.com/store/mip13246.html

http://miponline.com/store/mip13249.html

Also Kings head center diff mount will help with keeping the center diff from binding up and give the outdrives more support with the double bearing feature.

Beyond that the Center puck system http://miponline.com/store/mip13120.html but something to upgrade once your current centers go out.

Best of luck.
Matt, I have no issues with you promoting the MIP products and they are great products. But saying the existing pins and shims "break down" in a couple of runs is a bit harsh dont you think?
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:32 PM   #7137
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when changing the front diff housing do you just put the pinion gear thru the hole and let if float then put on the center cvd ? seems like there's a lot of back and forth play . or should I push the pinion thru holding it against the bearing then place the center shaft on the pinion then tighten it ??
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:07 PM   #7138
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when changing the front diff housing do you just put the pinion gear thru the hole and let if float then put on the center cvd ? seems like there's a lot of back and forth play . or should I push the pinion thru holding it against the bearing then place the center shaft on the pinion then tighten it ??
Make it tight.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:37 AM   #7139
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does that make it to far away from the ring gear ?
or did you mean to push the pinion gear into the ring gear then tighten ? sorry for the questions but the instructions are lacking bad in info....
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:06 AM   #7140
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does that make it to far away from the ring gear ?
or did you mean to push the pinion gear into the ring gear then tighten ? sorry for the questions but the instructions are lacking bad in info....
Tight meaning there is no play in the pinion. If you have it loose it will wear the driveshaft pin and possibly wear into the diff plastic.
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