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Old 07-28-2014, 02:13 PM   #7006
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Double-check that the little aluminum blocks fit flush in the side groves of the diff case, and also check the alignment of the cross-pins. I have seen both happen and cause the problem you described.
It sounds like your talking about the Diff itself. The problem I'm having is with the gearbox. If you look at the top of the pinion it rubs on the plastic. I can dremel it, just want to make sure i'm not missing something...
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:49 PM   #7007
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It sounds like your talking about the Diff itself. The problem I'm having is with the gearbox. If you look at the top of the pinion it rubs on the plastic. I can dremel it, just want to make sure i'm not missing something...
The issue I described was that as the result of the internal gears not being flush the ring gear did not fit well enough and rubbed on the front gearbox. It was on the outer side, near the outdrive. I see your ribs on the opposite side, near the center. Is the front the same? I have not yet tried the aluminum inserts, with them the diff proportions seem strange.
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:57 PM   #7008
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The issue I described was that as the result of the internal gears not being flush the ring gear did not fit well enough and rubbed on the front gearbox. It was on the outer side, near the outdrive. I see your ribs on the opposite side, near the center. Is the front the same? I have not yet tried the aluminum inserts, with them the diff proportions seem strange.
Man I don't know, I've taken the Diff apart multiple times to check the innards. I'm going to redo the Diff's with new housing's and new Bearing's since I can't get them off the old housings. Hopefully that will fix it as this has really delayed my build.
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:15 PM   #7009
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It shouldn't be a problem if the ring gear rubs on the gear box. A little bit of trigger will remove any offending material. Or you could Dremel it a bit before hand. I don't see that you have done anything wrong from your picture.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:49 PM   #7010
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Looking to get into Sc. Looks like this is the truck to get!
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:26 AM   #7011
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I ended up dremeling the inside of my diff housing due to rubbing. Thought I lost my rebuild skills since this truck is solid and doesn't need much work

It happens during the manufacturing process, but this is the first time I heard it mentioned.
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Old 07-29-2014, 12:14 PM   #7012
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With the stock steering links, you cannot gain full shock compression due to the inner ball end not being able to push up any further on the bellcranks. When you compress, you can only compress the shock about 80-90% of full travel.

I know MIP makes the dubro kit, but the dubros are not free within the pivot ball at all, so its almost worse since its not free. It does allow full compression however.

Curious if other folks have a remedy for this.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #7013
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Just finished build, Tekin RX8 & Pro 4 HD 4300 here we come.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:09 AM   #7014
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"I know MIP makes the dubro kit, but the dubros are not free within the pivot ball at all, so its almost worse since its not free. It does allow full compression however.

Curious if other folks have a remedy "



Just use some pliers to squeeze the dubro ends together and they will free up. Do a little at a time.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:23 PM   #7015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
"I know MIP makes the dubro kit, but the dubros are not free within the pivot ball at all, so its almost worse since its not free. It does allow full compression however.

Curious if other folks have a remedy "



Just use some pliers to squeeze the dubro ends together and they will free up. Do a little at a time.
Consider the outer camber link pivot balls from a Losi 8 2.0 (not the 1.0 and not the 3.0). They fit the SCTE rod ends and are taller than the SCTE pivot balls.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:13 AM   #7016
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Ordered along with the front mount and going to give MIP Pucks a go
Awesome just make sure to use the blue thread lock on the set screws in the coupler (barrel) and on the screws for the pucks. Best method for installing the pucks is to use 2 x .050 wrenches on each side and spin them the opposite direction to tighten up the screws. Also grease the pucks with some molly based grease. I recommend the 5203 MIP grease as it is what our team drivers have had the best luck with. The part # for extra pucks would be 13121.

Good luck and if there are any complications let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
With the stock steering links, you cannot gain full shock compression due to the inner ball end not being able to push up any further on the bellcranks. When you compress, you can only compress the shock about 80-90% of full travel.

I know MIP makes the dubro kit, but the dubros are not free within the pivot ball at all, so its almost worse since its not free. It does allow full compression however.

Curious if other folks have a remedy for this.
Just work them a bit with some needle nose pliers it will form the plastic to the ball. They all seem to stick at first but free up after that considerably and after a couple runs will be butter smooth, dubro makes a great product .

Quote:
Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
"I know MIP makes the dubro kit, but the dubros are not free within the pivot ball at all, so its almost worse since its not free. It does allow full compression however.

Curious if other folks have a remedy "

Just use some pliers to squeeze the dubro ends together and they will free up. Do a little at a time.
Thumbs up to this one
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:23 AM   #7017
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Cheers Matt, I've already ordered the Cup Grease and 2 sets of replacement Pucks, so I should be set for a few months
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:35 AM   #7018
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Default Canadian Offroad Champs

Hey guys another great round with the MIP Pro4 and Pro8 ended up taking TQ in both 4x4 SC and 1/8. Won Pro4 in the first two mains which is a feat because in the first main you line up normal but the second one you line up in reverse order of what you qualified so had to come from last. Had an awesome battle with TLR/MIP Dave Henry he was wicked fast as well and using many MIP upgrades on his TLR 2.0 including center braces, diff kits, and bypass1 pistons.

I was using the MIP Pro4mance package with all the MIP goodies here http://miponline.com/store/Losi_TLR_...pUp_Parts.html

In 1/8 I tied for first but lost it on a tie breaker, car had the fastest times all weekend. Again and again the Pro8 is coming up through the ranks, car is unbelievable to drive, if you guys ever see me at the track ask to take her for a spin.

Here are my setups for each vehicle
Truck:
https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_19525378955

Buggy:
https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_19525418425

Have a great day pullin trigger
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:46 AM   #7019
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Guys,

I am running a proline (Product ID : 3355-17) flo-tek body on my SCTE 2.0. I like the body but the hood hangs almost an inch over the front bumper so on impact the body is taking a lot of impact and cracking the hood. I am on my second body already and was wondering if maybe you guys run a different model, brand etc that does not extend past the front bumper.

The TLR body would be perfect but it is paper thin in spots, I am using shoe goo to extend the life of it.

So does anyone have any recommendations for other brands/models? I searched online but finding dimensions and details about the fit are kind of tricky. It is almost like you have to test each one out and see how they fit.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:06 AM   #7020
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Got my "Pucks" and KHZ diff mounts fitted, gave it a quick run up and down the street and the power delivery is smooth as butter, reminds me of my mates old Durango 4wd SC, TC smooth lol

While I was stripping the centre diff I also fitted a MIP Super diff kit



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