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Old 06-05-2014, 08:35 AM   #6841
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
I'll try 3-3-2 this weekend at my local low bite track.

Curious if you would recommend the same for 1/8 ebuggy?

Thx!
3-3-2 will create more heat in your electronics so make sure you monitor them very closely. I haven't had the need to get below 5-5-3 in the 2.0, and that is VERY rare. 5/5/5 is about as far as I normally go.

As far a s buggy, nope, way too light.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:09 AM   #6842
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
I'll try 3-3-2 this weekend at my local low bite track.

Curious if you would recommend the same for 1/8 ebuggy?

Thx!
I would suggest Drakes outdoor setup for low bite off the TLR web site.
for 8th scale that is.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:02 AM   #6843
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Default Replacement Parts

Hello,

I finally got the courage to tear down my SCTE 2.0 (I purchased it used/assembled). The good news is I am learning a lot the bad news is every time I take something apart I find another broken part. I am surprised by whole truck didn't just seize up to be honest.

So I am trying to take one section of the truck apart at a time so I can remember how everything goes. I have the manual but I find it easier if I only work on one section at a time so I don't get confused, misplace parts etc. The huge downside to this is I have to wait 3-5 days for the new parts I ordered to arrive and at this rate I might be done my rebuild by Christmas.

There are a couple local hobby shops in the area (10-15 minutes) but they don't stock a lot of Losi parts. So I was wondering if anyone could recommend some substitute parts that could work. The other option is a 2 hour round trip to a shop that carries Losi.

Here is a list of parts I need to replace -

1) TLR332001 (Washer and O-Ring) - I searched online and when I type in the part # I get the entire Differential Housing with integrated insert. I was wondering if it is possible to buy these washers and O-rings in bulk or do I always have to purchase the entire diff housing?

The one good thing is the top of rear diff case got chewed up from a bearing that locked up and my center diff needs the washer and o-ring. So I need the complete package this time around in order to fix my center and rear diffs. However in the future it would be nice to have replacement parts ready so I can quickly replace the wore parts and get back on the track as soon as possible without having to purchase the entire diff housing. Finally are there any traxxas, ofna or HPI parts that could be used as the o-ring and washer?

2) LOSA6264 - Two of my screws are stripped but I ordered another replacement pack of screws. My concern here is my current screws are stainless steel and the only LOSA6264 screws you can order are black which I believe aren't as strong. Is there another brand that anyone could recommend for the 32 x 3/8" screws?

3) General bearing question - So all my bearings look awful, I am using an exacto knife to pop the seal and then spraying them out with motor spray. I watched a tutorial on youtube so I am following that. They sound a lot better but when I put my bearing oil in it appears that all of the oil just runs out. My biggest concern is the bearings will seize up when I start racing due to lack of oil. Is it normal for the oil to run out? Should I be using thicker bearing oil (currently I am using Parma TQ bearing oil). I know people will probably suggest just getting replacement bearings and I will eventually go this route but I am new to the hobby and I have dropped $3000-$4000 easily already. Which doesn't sound like much to some people that have been doing this for years but in a 3-4 month period it is a lot for me. So I am trying to find ways to save money so I can use purchase things like tools, soldering station etc.

Thanks and I apologize for another long post but I wanted to lay out as much information as possible and if anyone wants to reply they have all the details.

Kevin
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:13 AM   #6844
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Originally Posted by A2Racing View Post
Hello,

I finally got the courage to tear down my SCTE 2.0 (I purchased it used/assembled). The good news is I am learning a lot the bad news is every time I take something apart I find another broken part. I am surprised by whole truck didn't just seize up to be honest.

So I am trying to take one section of the truck apart at a time so I can remember how everything goes. I have the manual but I find it easier if I only work on one section at a time so I don't get confused, misplace parts etc. The huge downside to this is I have to wait 3-5 days for the new parts I ordered to arrive and at this rate I might be done my rebuild by Christmas.

There are a couple local hobby shops in the area (10-15 minutes) but they don't stock a lot of Losi parts. So I was wondering if anyone could recommend some substitute parts that could work. The other option is a 2 hour round trip to a shop that carries Losi.

Here is a list of parts I need to replace -

1) TLR332001 (Washer and O-Ring) - I searched online and when I type in the part # I get the entire Differential Housing with integrated insert. I was wondering if it is possible to buy these washers and O-rings in bulk or do I always have to purchase the entire diff housing?

You can't really get these in "bulk" per se but they do sell them with a few different parts bags and this replacement gasket bag is only 4.99 http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3568

The one good thing is the top of rear diff case got chewed up from a bearing that locked up and my center diff needs the washer and o-ring. So I need the complete package this time around in order to fix my center and rear diffs. However in the future it would be nice to have replacement parts ready so I can quickly replace the wore parts and get back on the track as soon as possible without having to purchase the entire diff housing. Finally are there any traxxas, ofna or HPI parts that could be used as the o-ring and washer?

2) LOSA6264 - Two of my screws are stripped but I ordered another replacement pack of screws. My concern here is my current screws are stainless steel and the only LOSA6264 screws you can order are black which I believe aren't as strong. Is there another brand that anyone could recommend for the 32 x 3/8" screws?

The black oxide screws are stronger than silver 18-8 screws. Both should work just fine though

3) General bearing question - So all my bearings look awful, I am using an exacto knife to pop the seal and then spraying them out with motor spray. I watched a tutorial on youtube so I am following that. They sound a lot better but when I put my bearing oil in it appears that all of the oil just runs out. My biggest concern is the bearings will seize up when I start racing due to lack of oil. Is it normal for the oil to run out? Should I be using thicker bearing oil (currently I am using Parma TQ bearing oil). I know people will probably suggest just getting replacement bearings and I will eventually go this route but I am new to the hobby and I have dropped $3000-$4000 easily already. Which doesn't sound like much to some people that have been doing this for years but in a 3-4 month period it is a lot for me. So I am trying to find ways to save money so I can use purchase things like tools, soldering station etc.

Companies like Avid sell bearings for $1 a piece and have entire car kits for replacement bearings so replacing bearings is not as expensive as you might think. www.avidrc.com. Bearing oil is typically very light and it will run out. There are some very good bearing oils out there but they will all be light and although your bearings will be VERY free going this route they will require a bit more maintaince as you will want to clean and oil them. You can pack the bearings with some bearing grease or again you can get replacements for $1. We are all on budgets and I get it but some things are more effort than they are worth.....

Thanks and I apologize for another long post but I wanted to lay out as much information as possible and if anyone wants to reply they have all the details.

Kevin
Responses in blue. Just another comment. These trucks get abused. Sounds like with the coin you dropped already you could have gone new. Anyway it helps to either know the guy or see pictures of the a clean car when buying new. Also the SCTE is built like a tank and as a result guys get very lazy with maintenance since they just keep running so when it does get all beat up and lots of miles on it I am sure it is all worn out like you got.

There is a great community of guys on this thread so if you have any other questions or anything else we can help with let us know.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:41 AM   #6845
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First let me start by asking where did the 3-4,000 go? I am there also but that includes 3 cars including a 1:5th scale so I am assuming you have other cars?

I too did a recent rebuild and you are doing it rite in doing one section at a time instead of blowing the entire truck apart. My rebuild included a new chassis (mine cracked, my fault trying dumb stuff at the track) all 3 diffs, new bearings, new Puck drives, replaced my burned ESC and a shock service. Can be overwhelming at first but its not really that bad when its all said and done. Best part is I am no longer afraid to do my own service and vow not to run this thing into the ground again! Like Casper said, these trucks are built like a tank but are by no means a basher truck, once you get it dialed and do the normal maintenance you should be trouble free.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:31 AM   #6846
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Thanks Casper that is great info. I will check out Avid bearings and I hate to say it but the condition of the truck is solely on me. It was in mint condition not a single scratch when I bought it used, mainly I was buying it pre-assembled since my skill level is pretty low.

Embarrassing as it is to say, I have between 75-100 hours of track time on my SCTE 2.0 so that is a testament about the quality and durability of these trucks. I jumped into RC head first so I am learning a lot on the fly and now understand the importance of frequent maintenance. It is actually quite enjoyable and I am going to take pride in keeping my trucks in top form.

It kind of goes hand in hand but with the maintenance, I will be challenging myself to have my trucks finish as many races as possible. I know there will always been things you can't avoid but there has been several things I could have avoided with proper maintenance and breaking down my trucks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Responses in blue. Just another comment. These trucks get abused. Sounds like with the coin you dropped already you could have gone new. Anyway it helps to either know the guy or see pictures of the a clean car when buying new. Also the SCTE is built like a tank and as a result guys get very lazy with maintenance since they just keep running so when it does get all beat up and lots of miles on it I am sure it is all worn out like you got.

There is a great community of guys on this thread so if you have any other questions or anything else we can help with let us know.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:16 AM   #6847
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It looks really bad when I list everything out Almost makes me sick to my stomach, I didn't know anything at the start and dropped money in trucks that are bashers and not race trucks.

The Slash 2wd is my back-up race truck and it has come in handy twice already when my ball diff went in my 22 SCT. So it isn't all negative but the start up costs and then just figuring things out have been costly. I am sure I have left several things off the list but you can see why I am trying to stop the bleeding and start putting more towards racing and maintenance so I can avoid large expenditures.

Introduce to RC -
Traxxas T-Maxx – $600
Traxxas Slash Ultimate - $500
Traxxas Slash 2wd VXL– $450
Ofna JL10E (Used with electronics and batteries) - $250
Dynamite Quattro Prophet Charger – $299

When I decided to start racing -
Losi SCTE 2.0 preassembled with electronics – $650
Losi SCTE 2.0 Kit - $425 (I am building a back-up race truck)
Losi 22 SCT barely used with electronics – $390
Tekin RX8 Gen 2 - $220 (replacing broken Novak Havoc ESC)
Spektrum 4XR Controller - $320 (replaced my traxxas controller)
Lipo Batteries (SMC, SPC, RC King, Onyx) - $600
Tools and Equipment (Hex wrenches, Gauges, Scales, body reamer etc) - $150
Short Course Bodies and Paint - $125
Replacement Parts, Oils, Grease, Etc - $200
My Lap Transponders - $160
Tires, Tire Glue, Tire Spray (Protek Tru Grip, Simple Green) - $250

Total - $5589

It is a fun hobby though and my wife and son are both involved. My wife has been the biggest supporter and is encouraging RC racing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
First let me start by asking where did the 3-4,000 go? I am there also but that includes 3 cars including a 1:5th scale so I am assuming you have other cars?

I too did a recent rebuild and you are doing it rite in doing one section at a time instead of blowing the entire truck apart. My rebuild included a new chassis (mine cracked, my fault trying dumb stuff at the track) all 3 diffs, new bearings, new Puck drives, replaced my burned ESC and a shock service. Can be overwhelming at first but its not really that bad when its all said and done. Best part is I am no longer afraid to do my own service and vow not to run this thing into the ground again! Like Casper said, these trucks are built like a tank but are by no means a basher truck, once you get it dialed and do the normal maintenance you should be trouble free.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:07 AM   #6848
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Hi y'all, just ordered a kit I will mainly be running on high grip Astro, can someone point me in the right direction for a set up sheet? Cheers
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:40 PM   #6849
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Hi y'all, just ordered a kit I will mainly be running on high grip Astro, can someone point me in the right direction for a set up sheet? Cheers
I would try Datotah's Cactus setup

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...assic_2014.pdf

Or my high bite setup.

www.casper-rc.com
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:33 PM   #6850
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Cheers Casper
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:51 PM   #6851
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After a day of practice/racing question:

I take out the battery, get it a good going over with the air compressor and visual inspection.
Once done, Ive been spraying some Simple Green all over and let it sit for the night in the garage. The next day I bring it inside to my desk clean & good as new.

Will a little overspray hurt my esc or motor?

Last edited by braderb; 06-17-2014 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:54 PM   #6852
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Originally Posted by braderb View Post
After a day of practice/racing question:

I take out the battery, get it a good going over with the air compressor and visual inspection.
Once done, Ive been spraying some Simply Green all over and let it sit for the night in the garage. The next day I bring it inside to my desk clean & good as new.

Will a little overspray hurt my esc or motor?
If you are going to spray it with simple green, you want to let it sit a bit or hit it with a brush and then use the air compressor again. You dont want that sitting on your bearings and all.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:58 PM   #6853
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Could I recommend after you use the simple green you blow off real well and wipe dry. Then coat with something (wd40, silicone spray, etc.)that will not rust out the shock shafts and hinge pins. Always keep all liquids away from electronics. Getting them wet is asking for trouble.. Avoid anything wet to electronics... Just my 2cents
Quote:
Originally Posted by braderb View Post
After a day of practice/racing question:

I take out the battery, get it a good going over with the air compressor and visual inspection.
Once done, Ive been spraying some Simply Green all over and let it sit for the night in the garage. The next day I bring it inside to my desk clean & good as new.

Will a little overspray hurt my esc or motor?
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:47 PM   #6854
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Thanks hacker07 & XXXDad

Want to keep my TLR's looking good and appreciate any tips

Brad
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:26 PM   #6855
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Been trying to find a round about weight for a Ready to run Scte 2.0. Losi list the RTR 1.0 @ 6.75lbs and that is without a battery. The 2.0 kit is listed @ 6.3lbs which im assuming is dry weight (no Diff fluid, no shock oil)

So my question is what is the average weight of a 2.0 RTR with battery?(hop ups ok) If anyone could post up some weights of their rigs i would really appreciate it. Trying to do some planning for my MMP and Pro4Hd and don't want to run too heavy
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