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Old 05-29-2014, 11:30 AM   #6796
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Use a small drill the size of the bolt and drill into the stripped head. Once you drill enough the head will actually fall off. Leaving the stud. When you get the top plate off the diff case, you'll see a small piece of the stud sticking out. Grab that stud sticking out with a pair of pliers and turn it out.
Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:07 PM   #6797
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Last noob question! Promise! can't remember if there are any special protocol for a new lipo's first run...??
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:32 AM   #6798
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Nope, charge and run.
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:27 PM   #6799
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Ok so I was curious if Anyone might be able to help me out with a few issues. I FINALLLY got a chance to run my new SCTE at OCRC the other day and I have and few questions I need help with.

1. My shocks leak like a motha-fu****. I have been building shocks for years so I know I built them right. I think the single seal is the culprit. Do any of you run an aftermarket/ different brand seal that seals tighter? For example. In my sc10.2, I use HPI shocks seals because they are .2mm smaller I.d. This grips the shaft a little better and prevents leaking.

2. I can't seem to get the truck to turn very tightly. I am running 7-5-3 on a large indoor clay track. I was thinking of going to 5k up front. Anyone else run at OCRC or SDRC ? What weight diff oil are you using up front?
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:09 PM   #6800
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Ok so I was curious if Anyone might be able to help me out with a few issues. I FINALLLY got a chance to run my new SCTE at OCRC the other day and I have and few questions I need help with.

1. My shocks leak like a motha-fu****. I have been building shocks for years so I know I built them right. I think the single seal is the culprit. Do any of you run an aftermarket/ different brand seal that seals tighter? For example. In my sc10.2, I use HPI shocks seals because they are .2mm smaller I.d. This grips the shaft a little better and prevents leaking.

2. I can't seem to get the truck to turn very tightly. I am running 7-5-3 on a large indoor clay track. I was thinking of going to 5k up front. Anyone else run at OCRC or SDRC ? What weight diff oil are you using up front?
You running dunfords set up?
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:30 PM   #6801
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Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
Ok so I was curious if Anyone might be able to help me out with a few issues. I FINALLLY got a chance to run my new SCTE at OCRC the other day and I have and few questions I need help with.

1. My shocks leak like a motha-fu****. I have been building shocks for years so I know I built them right. I think the single seal is the culprit. Do any of you run an aftermarket/ different brand seal that seals tighter? For example. In my sc10.2, I use HPI shocks seals because they are .2mm smaller I.d. This grips the shaft a little better and prevents leaking.

2. I can't seem to get the truck to turn very tightly. I am running 7-5-3 on a large indoor clay track. I was thinking of going to 5k up front. Anyone else run at OCRC or SDRC ? What weight diff oil are you using up front?
Run the latest dunford setup.
http://www.casper-rc.com/TLR_Ten-SCTE.htm

These shocks don't leak. There is something wrong here. Even with the one seal they don't leak. I have never had an issue with one and we have been running this truck for over 3 years now and I hardly ever service the shocks and maybe replace the o-rings once a year (I know bad but I don't feel the need to).

Both Ryan and I will be at OCRC tonight if you can make it out we would be happy to help you with your truck.
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:39 PM   #6802
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Ive never had the shocks leak on the 2.0. I bought the kit as soon as it came out.
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Old 05-30-2014, 03:17 PM   #6803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
Ok so I was curious if Anyone might be able to help me out with a few issues. I FINALLLY got a chance to run my new SCTE at OCRC the other day and I have and few questions I need help with.

1. My shocks leak like a motha-fu****. I have been building shocks for years so I know I built them right. I think the single seal is the culprit. Do any of you run an aftermarket/ different brand seal that seals tighter? For example. In my sc10.2, I use HPI shocks seals because they are .2mm smaller I.d. This grips the shaft a little better and prevents leaking.

2. I can't seem to get the truck to turn very tightly. I am running 7-5-3 on a large indoor clay track. I was thinking of going to 5k up front. Anyone else run at OCRC or SDRC ? What weight diff oil are you using up front?
I think your issue might be the bottom cap isn't screwed on all the way. If you have the ones that are too small you will have to use vice scripts to screw them until they meet the bottom of the shock body.
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:08 AM   #6804
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I have had one lower cup back out causing a leak but other than that like Casper said, these shocks don't leak. Maddog9, the plastic shock tools are cheap, I would never use a vice grip on these. I also Run OCRC and run the Dunford setup.
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:38 PM   #6805
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Ran the car for the first time in a while @ Mikes Hobby Shop (Porter, tx) and was wondering if there's anything I can do diff-wise or suspension-wise to fight it's nose-dive tendency on both the large and small jumps.. I could make due everywhere but the big kicker double with a low landing.. Diffs are at 5-7-5 per phend's e Nats winning setup.
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:40 PM   #6806
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Its probably not the diffs. If anything it's your shock package...maybe anti-squat. What are you running? Also, stay on the throttle in the air. You can't let off completely with these things in the air. The drive train spools down and pulls the front end down hard, even with little to no drag brake.
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:08 PM   #6807
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buy the rear spring package, that'll alter how it jumps.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:48 PM   #6808
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Its probably not the diffs. If anything it's your shock package...maybe anti-squat. What are you running? Also, stay on the throttle in the air. You can't let off completely with these things in the air. The drive train spools down and pulls the front end down hard, even with little to no drag brake.
Shocks: stock losi 1.0s... 30 wt front and 27.5 rear. no clue what anti squat cuz idk how to adjust that... or what it does?? lol and ya im having to get used to the throttle again.. its just on that one jump even if I gunned it up the face and held full throttle I'd have to do it just right to keep it from nosing over.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:53 PM   #6809
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buy the rear spring package, that'll alter how it jumps.
which rear spring package? MIP, losi?
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:55 PM   #6810
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Shocks: stock losi 1.0s... 30 wt front and 27.5 rear. no clue what anti squat cuz idk how to adjust that... or what it does?? lol and ya im having to get used to the throttle again.. its just on that one jump even if I gunned it up the face and held full throttle I'd have to do it just right to keep it from nosing over.
You running a 1.0 or 2.0 if it's a 1.0 try the APE battery tray it helps place the battery further back. I used one on my 1.0 and it really help balance the truck out and cured my nose diving issues.
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