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Old 05-27-2014, 04:11 PM   #6781
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thank you, def want the aluminum.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:12 PM   #6782
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I just put my MIP steering kit on (had the stock ones) and it did help with the binding at full compression.

I was wondering did you put the 2mm washers on the outer to get the same bumpsteer as dunfords setup? I measured and 1.5mm would be close as far as the height. But the inside would be different so I don't know how that would react.

I also put a .5mm under the steering linkage to prevent it hitting the Ackerman bar. (thanks for the tip cctech)



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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
While I was preparing my SCTE for the outdoor season, I noticed 2 things:

1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.

2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.

Thx!
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #6783
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Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:06 PM   #6784
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Thanks Casper
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:24 PM   #6785
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
If you are running the recommended droop, shock eyelets unscrewed. You may notice that the drive shafts bind with the diff out drives. I saw wear on both front and rear shafts. Mine were binding to the point where my diff cases were wearing out because of the upward pressure on the out drives. To solve this I added hard external limiters on the shock shafts.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:41 AM   #6786
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Casper, where do you guys run your front kick with the new 15 deg. Blocks? Same as before?

Thanks,
Jack
Great question. Did you ever get an answer?
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:27 AM   #6787
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Remains the same. Lengthening of the shocks is all, I believe!?
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:34 AM   #6788
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
I'm confused. How does that affect your jumping. Wouldn't the rear only be fully compressed when the truck lands, not on takeoff?
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:58 AM   #6789
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I'm confused. How does that affect your jumping. Wouldn't the rear only be fully compressed when the truck lands, not on takeoff?
Not exactly, when you hit the jump the suspension compresses. For larger jumps where i'm really on the throttle, the rear suspension compresses all the way. When this happens, the binding happens and effectively puts on the breaks. This causes the truck to front roll and land on the hood. If i'm hitting a double or single, there is no issue and the truck is great.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:13 AM   #6790
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
I would have to check my truck but I don't think mine binds up under full compression. I have very few troubles jumping this truck. Big or small. This truck does have more uptravel then it really needs so limting a little is not a bad thing but I would still give it full compression to touch the chassis to the ground under a flat compression. so not sure it this would help what you think is the problem.
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:22 AM   #6791
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When changing fluid in diffs, can you just unscrew one of the four screws that hold it together and patiently shoot it through there? Like will it sufficiently fill the diff? Two of my screws are stripped, so I can't open it, otherwise I'd take it all apart.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:05 AM   #6792
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I'm pretty sure the screw holes are separate from the fluid cavity so that will not work.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:26 AM   #6793
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When changing fluid in diffs, can you just unscrew one of the four screws that hold it together and patiently shoot it through there? Like will it sufficiently fill the diff? Two of my screws are stripped, so I can't open it, otherwise I'd take it all apart.
Not an option. Drill out the head. They are soft. Then pull the stud out with pliers. Then use HPI Z449 screws to replace. Part number is HPIZ449. You'll never have a problem again.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:16 AM   #6794
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Not an option. Drill out the head. They are soft. Then pull the stud out with pliers. Then use HPI Z449 screws to replace. Part number is HPIZ449. You'll never have a problem again.
K thanks. What do you mean by drill it out?
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:20 AM   #6795
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K thanks. What do you mean by drill it out?
Use a small drill the size of the bolt and drill into the stripped head. Once you drill enough the head will actually fall off. Leaving the stud. When you get the top plate off the diff case, you'll see a small piece of the stud sticking out. Grab that stud sticking out with a pair of pliers and turn it out.
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