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Old 05-26-2014, 10:27 AM   #6766
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Hey guys, I run an SCTE 1.0 with the Mamba SCT Race Pro system (3800kv) and was wondering if the shroud fan for the motor is necessary? It's just bulky and saps some battery so I'm curious.. PS I live in Texas so it can get hot and run outdoors. Thanks
Temps are ususally between 80-100F around here, my motor is about 115-140 after 10 mins.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:35 AM   #6767
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Temps are ususally between 80-100F around here, my motor is about 115-140 after 10 mins.
K, what's a good electric temp window again?
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:58 AM   #6768
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Castle recommends <200F.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:01 PM   #6769
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Sweet thanks! Getting back into it after a year (:
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LOSI TEN-SCTE (1.0) w/ Jammin lightened chassis - Mamba SCT Race Pro 3800kv

Wish list: MIP Pro4mance + Pro8 to make an e buggy
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:52 PM   #6770
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If one breaks alloy caster blocks with plastic spindles , what do you think is gna happen when you install alloy spindles?
Sumn's gna give!!!
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:06 PM   #6771
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I will be going back to plastic casters. I am by no means spending another $50 only to have one snap again. My new chassis should be in tomorrow so a complete swap and diff service will take up my day. When doing the diffs, what all should I replace, housing, diffs etc???
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:38 PM   #6772
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When rebuilding my diff I always replace the gasket, o ring, washers and pin, rarely the housing. (TLR332001). I always Inspect if gears are still good.
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:33 PM   #6773
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hi guys,

need part nos for caster blocks, front tekno shafts and rear hex (0.5 mm)

need to mod my NEW 2.0

repost, a little help please.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:11 PM   #6774
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Tekno drive shaft conversion TKR2210X
Rear 0.5mm hex TLR332014
For the caster blocks I do not know if you want the plastic or the aluminum version.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:18 PM   #6775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmitch282 View Post
Hey guys, I run an SCTE 1.0 with the Mamba SCT Race Pro system (3800kv) and was wondering if the shroud fan for the motor is necessary? It's just bulky and saps some battery so I'm curious.. PS I live in Texas so it can get hot and run outdoors. Thanks
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I run the CC 3800KV motor down in South Alabama at some of the tracks and I use the fan on it. Motor temps are lower and makes the motor bearings last longer also. I run the HW SCT PRO/3800KV w/ a 14T, temps stay below 140 in the summer time. Just as fast as my 4600KV motor, Which i run CC motor fan on also.
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:23 PM   #6776
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What's everyone using for reciever box ? Any pic?
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:05 AM   #6777
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Last weekend we had a 1st and 3rd Place in the Swiss Nats Round3 (Large medium bite Indoor carpet Tack) with our TLR SCTE 2.0's.
We where only 2 TLR's of 23 Racers but the SCTE handled great and we had the large advantage as our cars never broke. We both completed all practice rounds, qualifying and the finals and my friend dominated every run by at least 1/2sec per round.

We both used ThunderPower 4,5t 550 2 pole motors and normal Hobbywing/Nosram ESC's, this has also proven to be easy to handle and reliable.

I'm very happy with my SCTE as now the outdoor season will start and we know that our trucks will also handle very good on dirt
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Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-imag0311.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_1254481261321002.jpeg  
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:01 AM   #6778
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While I was preparing my SCTE for the outdoor season, I noticed 2 things:

1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.

2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.

Thx!
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Last edited by skrichter; 05-27-2014 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:13 PM   #6779
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
While I was preparing my SCTE for the outdoor season, I noticed 2 things:

1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.

2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.

Thx!
1. The balls have a flange to them. On the inner tie rods (that connect to the bellcrank) the flange faces up. On the outside (that connects to the spindle) the flange faces down.

2. You may need to add a washer or two to the steering link where it connects to the bellcrank to raise it up just a bit to clear the ackerman link. I had to do this when I installed the ball bearing bellcrank by vision racing.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:46 PM   #6780
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Originally Posted by fredmotokx View Post
Tekno drive shaft conversion TKR2210X
Rear 0.5mm hex TLR332014
For the caster blocks I do not know if you want the plastic or the aluminum version.
thank you, def want the aluminum.
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