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Old 05-10-2014, 04:19 AM   #6691
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Can anyone give input on how they feel about the TLR SC flow body?
TLR 8061
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:23 AM   #6692
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That's too hot. That's a BIG pinion. I've never heard of anyone running that big. I've got my Viper system set to shut down at around 180 on my Tekin Pro4 4000KV. This motor has been over 200 twice on accident (oops) and "survived" but that is just way too hot.
Tekins will run hotter. Acording to Frank as he has posted in the past, the 180-200 range under race time for 8-10 min is ok. I would'nt bash with those temps. If you look at the recordings of the time and temps my temps when warm like that are in the last minute less than two minutes or the run. Sure I would like to have temps lower and can acheive that by droping a tooth or two or take timing out a few degrees; but where is the fun in that. Ive got the 4600 pro timing from 13-15 and just switch to my 15 on the pinion power deliver for my track is smoother and stronger with this setup to clear some triples as compared to a 12 or 13 pinion setup where intial power is stronger but traction control is more sensative(throttle finger)
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:47 PM   #6693
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Can anyone give input on how they feel about the TLR SC flow body?
TLR 8061
Look awesome but is expensive and don't last. More a body to save for race time if anything. I just switched to the Pro Line Evo and have a super high cutout which looks real good and this body can take a beating.
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:49 PM   #6694
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yes the TLR body is awesome with all the cutouts but it is very thing and breaks easy. I have to shoo goo mine LOL
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:58 PM   #6695
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What Chassis? H1 or V2 Pro?

im in a stage where i have both V2Pro and TLR's chasi laying around and both the MIP Pro4-Mance SCTE 2.0 Rigid Chassis Brace Kit (MIP13249) and Team Losi Racing Front/Back Torque Rod Set.

What do you suggest? to use MIP's? TLR's? to mix them? (using one as back and the other as front)
I was using the V2 chassis I should have tried it with the TLR braces but I really did not like them. Never broke one but the rod ends seem to wear out really quick.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #6696
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First a quick disclaimer -

I am new to the hobby and I purchased by 2.0 SCTE assembled on ebay. I am trying to clean and inspect the truck as I have had it for about 2 months and have now entered 4 races (approximately 20 heats and finals). Another disclaimer is I have only been in the hobby for about 6 months and am learning everything through the manuals and online so hopefully I have the parts and terminology correct.

I can't figure out for the life of me how to remove the clamping wheel hex. I have disassembled the front end and have the spindle and CV driveshaft removed from the truck. I have removed the little clamping screw but now I can't remove wheel hex, the CV driveshaft just spins even when I clamp it down with vise grips and cloth.

I am now worried I am going to damage the CV driveshaft while trying to remove the wheel hex. I figured there has to be a trick or method to this since it seems like it should be a fairly routine process. The other thing I worry about is if I need to change the bearings in a quick hurry on race day I will be out of luck and my day will be over since it looks like the wheel hex is not coming off with any method I have tried.

I have done youtube and internet searches for the past hour and can't find anything that shows how to do this. I am guessing it is b/c it is such a simple process and I am just missing the boat on how to remove the wheel hex. It looks like it might have some loc-tite on it as well.

Any suggestions or pointers would be great.

Thanks!
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:38 AM   #6697
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The wheel hex has a small set screw you need to remove and it will just slide off, the pin that keeps it in place will just slide out of the axle.


Oh yea, welcome and congrats on getting the best truck out!
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #6698
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Thanks, I removed the small set screw. Should I just use a little screw driver to prior the wheel hex loose now?

I am loving the truck, I am awful at racing but the truck is awesome. It is very smooth and handles great. I am enjoying racing so much that I picked up a TLR 22 SCT as well so I can run a second class, there is a lot more tweaking with the 22 truck which is fun as well. I am very happy with the Losi brand and look forward to learning more about the trucks and racing. I consistently run in the middle of the pack which I am happy with since I am a beginner and I have got 1st place in the B main twice. I need to find some more Losi drivers in the area so I can learn from them about tuning, maintenance and potential upgrades. I just don't want to be the annoying guy that asks a million questions while they are trying to have a relaxing day at the track.

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The wheel hex has a small set screw you need to remove and it will just slide off, the pin that keeps it in place will just slide out of the axle.


Oh yea, welcome and congrats on getting the best truck out!
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:51 AM   #6699
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If the Previous owner used too much locktite on the set screw some may have seeped down o to the axle And stuck the hex to the axle and crosspin. Once u remove the setscrew ther is nothing else holding the hex on so just wedge a then flat blade screwdriver or even better a putty knife in between the hex and carrier and pry it off.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:28 AM   #6700
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Originally Posted by walterheard View Post
Can anyone give input on how they feel about the TLR SC flow body?
TLR 8061
I feel the body helps with jumping a lot and is a lot more consistent. A lot of the time I buy the solid one and just cut five holes out. I shoe goo the body and put heat shield tape on the inside of the sides and it lasts a lot longer.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:48 AM   #6701
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If anyone is not willing to help out with answering questions, they aren't worth racing with. Don't hesitate to ask questions at the track. I can almost guarantee that you aren't awful at racing. There are tons of us out here who are great at racing....but terrible at driving. Mwahahahahhaha
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:09 AM   #6702
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Thanks for all the help guys. Once you explained it, it was a breeze to get the wheel hex off and I was able to clean the bearings. The bearings sound kind of scratchy like there is grains of sand in them so it might be time to get some new ones I suppose.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:13 PM   #6703
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You can use some motor cleaner or contact cleaner to spray the bearings out, spin and spray them until they stop sounding gritty, re-oil them and reinstall them. If they don't stop sounding gritty, pitch them. You might want to keep some spares too as they are a wear item and they are cheap.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:36 PM   #6704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
If anyone is not willing to help out with answering questions, they aren't worth racing with. Don't hesitate to ask questions at the track. I can almost guarantee that you aren't awful at racing. There are tons of us out here who are great at racing....but terrible at driving. Mwahahahahhaha
This....

Being somewhat a newb myself (to indoor) I have found everyone I approach willing to help and don't appear annoyed one bit, even the top pros/product developers are willing to spend the time to get you sorted.
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:13 PM   #6705
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Awesome! I enjoy working with other racers as much as the racing itself.
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