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Old 05-08-2014, 05:53 PM   #6676
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I have same Issue, running this truck a long time. Some days better than others, Check gear mesh, never run Drag brake. I started running softer shock oils and will try going back because the nosedive is back and when I go for big jumps the Hekno guys fly flat over. Mine dumps the nose it's the only problem I need to solve on this truck. I have to full throttle in the air. if I let off It lands nose first..... sigh.... i'm not novice
Odd all I here in So Cal is how everyone hates how the tekno's jump nose down and how the SCTE is a better jumper. A lot of guys have dumped there tekno's after a few years of trying to get them to work and now running the TLR truck.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:55 PM   #6677
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Uploaded my SCTE 2.0 high bite setup to www.casper-rc.com

Remember this is a HIGH BITE setup. We are talking about slicks on clay or blue groove/sugar tracks outdoor. Otherwise we are still running the latest dunford setup but using the new 15 deg caster blocks with that! (remember to adjust your droop with the caster blocks. The feedback so far has been very positive from what I have read!)

Also don't for get to try out the Casper-RC extreme grease for your CV joints and ring and pinion gears!
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:08 PM   #6678
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Also if your truck is geared too low it will not have enough wheel speed to keep the nose up or correct in the air.
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:52 PM   #6679
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Anyone still having an issue with Nose Dive off jumps? I've tried a new motor, still happens. New softer rear springs, no change. This thing is almost un driveable. I can't find any evidence of drive train binding either. Checked gear mesh too, and that looks fine. I'm not a pro, but not a noobie either. Any help would be appreciated. SCTE 2.0 Tekin 4300HD RX8 Gen 2.
Try checking your hinge pins also. The slightest bend will cause nosediving.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:43 PM   #6680
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What hex pins for the wheels will work with out having to buy new hexes? Thanks
?
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:55 PM   #6681
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Odd all I here in So Cal is how everyone hates how the tekno's jump nose down and how the SCTE is a better jumper. A lot of guys have dumped there tekno's after a few years of trying to get them to work and now running the TLR truck.
+1
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:33 AM   #6682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Uploaded my SCTE 2.0 high bite setup to www.casper-rc.com

Remember this is a HIGH BITE setup. We are talking about slicks on clay or blue groove/sugar tracks outdoor. Otherwise we are still running the latest dunford setup but using the new 15 deg caster blocks with that! (remember to adjust your droop with the caster blocks. The feedback so far has been very positive from what I have read!)

Also don't for get to try out the Casper-RC extreme grease for your CV joints and ring and pinion gears!
Thanks for that, getting ready to do my diffs when my Puck drives come in. Been running 5/5/3 in the diffs, so I will give 5/7/5 a shot!
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:59 AM   #6683
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Thank you for all of the input. When I first built the truck, it was great. Somewhere along the way... I messed it up. Fail! I'm not running any drag brake. I'll have to check the pins, sway bars and shock mounts to make sure they are not too tight or binding. I don't think they are though as I'm constantly monitoring / cleaning them.

It doesn't happen on all jumps. Like XXXDad, it's just the big ones. Going over a single I'm able to nose down or nose up with the throttle. I can downside the small jumps every time. It's the big triples that get me. I stay hard on the throttle and if I come up short I'm nose dive smashing right into the upside of the jump. Lots of times I endo and do a front flip. This is killing the truck!
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:14 AM   #6684
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Thank you for all of the input. When I first built the truck, it was great. Somewhere along the way... I messed it up. Fail! I'm not running any drag brake. I'll have to check the pins, sway bars and shock mounts to make sure they are not too tight or binding. I don't think they are though as I'm constantly monitoring / cleaning them.

It doesn't happen on all jumps. Like XXXDad, it's just the big ones. Going over a single I'm able to nose down or nose up with the throttle. I can downside the small jumps every time. It's the big triples that get me. I stay hard on the throttle and if I come up short I'm nose dive smashing right into the upside of the jump. Lots of times I endo and do a front flip. This is killing the truck!
Don't come up short!

Does not sound like it is really an issue with the attitude more then actually clearing them jump? If you were to clear the jump would the truck be in position to land properly?
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:24 AM   #6685
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On the triples, even if I over shoot the jump I land on the front bumper. So it's a big problem.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:02 AM   #6686
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Most likely is the rear arm suspension hinge pins, remove them ,ream the hole and im willing to bet your problem goes away, the arms get a lil twisted and bind up causing your endo problems, just remove your rear shock and see if your arms move freely,
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:40 AM   #6687
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Originally Posted by LosiRacer33 View Post
Thank you for all of the input. When I first built the truck, it was great. Somewhere along the way... I messed it up. Fail! I'm not running any drag brake. I'll have to check the pins, sway bars and shock mounts to make sure they are not too tight or binding. I don't think they are though as I'm constantly monitoring / cleaning them.

It doesn't happen on all jumps. Like XXXDad, it's just the big ones. Going over a single I'm able to nose down or nose up with the throttle. I can downside the small jumps every time. It's the big triples that get me. I stay hard on the throttle and if I come up short I'm nose dive smashing right into the upside of the jump. Lots of times I endo and do a front flip. This is killing the truck!
What motor and gearing are you running?
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:05 PM   #6688
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Shocks move fine. No hinge pin binding either. However when I fully push the rear suspension up it binds the rear drivetrain. The rear doesn't spin at all. Are there limiters that prevent full compression? Is this normal?
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:31 PM   #6689
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How hot is too hot for a tekin motor? 4300HD 16T. 196 after a 8 min main.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:35 PM   #6690
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That's too hot. That's a BIG pinion. I've never heard of anyone running that big. I've got my Viper system set to shut down at around 180 on my Tekin Pro4 4000KV. This motor has been over 200 twice on accident (oops) and "survived" but that is just way too hot.
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