R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-04-2014, 12:07 PM   #6646
Tech Champion
 
XXXDad's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
Posts: 6,009
Trader Rating: 195 (100%+)
Arrow Indoor OK

When you make chassis so ridged it takes away traction, so in a high bite situation you can get away with it. Outdoor: stick with the flex from the stock unit. Make sure the threaded rod is as far as it can go into the plastic eye.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
Are the MIP rigid chassis braces a good idea for indoor clay tracks? Im a bit tired of breaking the plastic ends...
__________________
☆ Glenn Carlson ☆☆ WPB, Florida☆

☆TLR 22B 3.0 MM ☆ 22T 2.0 MM ☆22B 2.0 MM ☆22-4 ☆ SCTE 2.0☆ ☆
XXXDad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 12:18 PM   #6647
Tech Adept
 
SoCalMX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Sunny Southern Cal...
Posts: 197
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks... Yea, I would bottom out the allthread rod into the plastic, I guess my driving needs much improving!

Just ordered the rigid set as all my 2.0 sees is the indoor track.
__________________
Losi 5ive-T monster
Kyosho RB6 mid...
Kyosho SC6 mid...
Kyosho RT6 mid...
SoCalMX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 12:58 PM   #6648
Tech Regular
 
hkrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Baldwin Park, CA
Posts: 470
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
Are the MIP rigid chassis braces a good idea for indoor clay tracks? Im a bit tired of breaking the plastic ends...
I have been running the mip braces since they came out both indoors and out. I did not notice a loss in traction when running on indoor clay tracks I see no down side to running the mip braces with the stock chassis.However I did run them with a BCE chassis and did not like the way it drove.
hkrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 10:40 PM   #6649
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mc Rae, AR
Posts: 1,371
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
Received new caster blocks this week. Very nice quality.

We have a new track layout so I ran my first two qualifiers with the stock ones still in my truck... (new layout is killer at Mikes Hobby Shop !!!)
I installed the new caster blocks for the 3rd qualifier, extended the shocks 2-turns, checked the ride height and tossed it on the track... WOW!!!
The only way to explain it is...it felt like I had power steering if that makes sense.
My truck turned with alot more authority, felt very positive on the track.
Sounds like a big improvement. Do they take out caster or put more caster in?
Thunder Trail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 11:40 PM   #6650
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,738
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Awesome idea from Imagine It Graphics. Way cleaner then shoe goo.
Attached Thumbnails
Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_8356.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_8357.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_8358.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_8359.jpg   Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-img_8361.jpg  

__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 05:47 AM   #6651
Moderator
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,744
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

That is a slick idea. I have been wetting a finger and smoothing the shoe goo out too. Works really well, you can spread it uniform and relatively thin and it remains clear and doesn't stick to your finger.
__________________
Current Racers: AE B6D, Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48.3
Full Throttle R/C Raceway www.ftrcr.com, Psycho Dog Racing Team, Team Holy Rollers - Greatest RC race team on the planet. Well, at least the team with the best sponsor.
Tekno RC
bds81175 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 03:53 PM   #6652
Tech Elite
 
symmetricon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: houston
Posts: 4,721
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw1i...e_gdata_player
Roar nats sct A1
__________________
XRAY / RCAMERICA
JCONCEPTS
RCSHOX
Mikes Hobby Shop
symmetricon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 04:38 PM   #6653
Tech Elite
 
JEFFs SC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orlandooooo, Fl
Posts: 3,866
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXDad View Post
When you make chassis so ridged it takes away traction, so in a high bite situation you can get away with it. Outdoor: stick with the flex from the stock unit. Make sure the threaded rod is as far as it can go into the plastic eye.
The stock braces SUCK and are known to break. I run the MIP's and love them. It's a known thing that they stock plastic sucks.
__________________
XRAY T4 17' //CRC Gen X SE- 17.5 GT//Xray X12-17' GT12//Xray X12-18' 17.5
check out the new 12th scale GT class!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/148391312353349/
JEFFs SC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 04:41 PM   #6654
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,738
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
The stock braces SUCK and are known to break. I run the MIP's and love them. It's a known thing that they stock plastic sucks.
Can you break the stock plastic ends on the stock braces. Sure. If you thread the set screw all the way into the plastic piece to fill in the hole in the plastic end first it strengthens it significantly and they last much longer.

The stock ones allow more torsion then the MIP ones. It is a tuning thing. There was a reason for the way TLR did it.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 05:58 PM   #6655
Tech Adept
 
rivalshad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fontana CA
Posts: 220
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Can you break the stock plastic ends on the stock braces. Sure. If you thread the set screw all the way into the plastic piece to fill in the hole in the plastic end first it strengthens it significantly and they last much longer.

The stock ones allow more torsion then the MIP ones. It is a tuning thing. There was a reason for the way TLR did it.
I 2nd that. The first one I built for my bro I threaded it in the rod first and it broke on the first night. I then screwed it in the eyelet on his and mine and haven't broke one on either truck in a year.
__________________
8ight E 3.0, SCTE 2.0, TLR 22-4, B5, RC8.2 FT, SC10B FT

60% of the time it works everytime
rivalshad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 06:37 PM   #6656
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 286
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
The stock braces SUCK and are known to break. I run the MIP's and love them. It's a known thing that they stock plastic sucks.
I broke my front one only once on a string nose dive. Then assembled like the man says and have had no problems.
Roken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 09:54 PM   #6657
Tech Master
 
Jack Bonhomme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 1,121
Default New TLR 334017 and TLR 332014 parts

I installed the new 15 deg +2mm front castor blocks and +0.5mm rear hexes in my version 1.0 for this past Sunday's outdoor season opener at Barnstormers in NY. The new handling was quite impressive. This is a large 1/8th scale sized medium grip track, which gets fairly bumpy by the end of the day. I was able to TQ 4wd SC with my truck. I believe I was the only person running the new parts. My truck drove noticeably smoother and was very stable. It was not darty to small steering inputs, and seemed to have more corner exit steering on power. The steering felt more like it was coming from the front end, and less from having the rear end break free and rotating. The truck was fairly planted overall. But I could still pitch it into a turn if I needed to. But with no sudden loss of rear grip. I did have to raise the front body posts up 1 hole in order to keep the now wider front end from rubbing the front tires on the body's wheel wells. Other than that I made no other changes to my usual setup. I still have to drive it again on a small indoor track to see if these new parts benefit the steering and handling as well as they did on the big outdoor track. But so far it seems like money well spent!
__________________
YouTube Page: JackBonhommeVideos
Sponsors: FTM Grip, Redline Hobbies, Garcia Graphix
Tracks:Barnstormers, 46RC, R/C Madness
Jack Bonhomme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 06:11 AM   #6658
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 4
Default

after assembling the car i noticed that the driveshaft that connects the middle and the front differential is not completely straight. i also checked a brand new i got as a spare part when i purchased the kit and i noticed that it is also a bit bent. anyone else had the same issue?
Maximos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 08:55 AM   #6659
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,738
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximos View Post
after assembling the car i noticed that the driveshaft that connects the middle and the front differential is not completely straight. i also checked a brand new i got as a spare part when i purchased the kit and i noticed that it is also a bit bent. anyone else had the same issue?
My front center shaft has been bent for a while. It does not seem to affect much and I have left it. I am about to replace most of my drive line as it has been almost a season and a half and time for a refresh but yeah some of them are slighly bent. You can contact Horizon Customer Service.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 06:56 PM   #6660
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,695
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

I have a question about bump steer. A lot of the setup sheets I see have a 2mm washer added for bump steer. Would I be correct to assume that the 2mm washer adds bump steer (which I believe adds toe out at full compression)?
__________________
B6D
B64D
Tekno EB410
JoeC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:31 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net