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Old 04-28-2014, 10:41 PM   #6616
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Lightbulb Lower Brake force and check for play in pinion/dtiveshft

Yeah you don't want to lock the wheels up ever, also when you build the case/driveshaft/pinion... make sure your pressing the pinion IN and then making sure the drive shaft is pressed > onto the pinion shaft tight.
So there is no slop or play... then with blue lock tight on setscrew tighten it up.
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Originally Posted by shaner222 View Post
need help guys
iv chip teeth off my rear ring gear twice in a month killin 2 ring gears
so what would cause my teeth to chip iv replace twice and sure cant figure out why the second chipped let alone the first followed instruction to the letter
thanks
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:25 PM   #6617
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
All I had were M2 and M4 Blockades and some MegaBytes that were about 80% worn. When they blew the track off and you could actually see the groove starting to come in, the MegaBytes were money... but only for a few laps, it was so dry and dusty it went skating by lap 3.
The Blockades were my only other option, so thats what I went for.
Diffs were 5-7-5, its the Dunford setup, to the T.

Have you tried removing the front sway bar? An old trick from the 1.0 that seemed to help alot.
Doog, try 5-5-3

use the tekno front shafts that'll turn the front wheels a little more too.

you can try running a softer front spring as well.

What weight oil you use in your shocks? I run 27.5
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:05 PM   #6618
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Originally Posted by XXXDad View Post
Yeah you don't want to lock the wheels up ever, also when you build the case/driveshaft/pinion... make sure your pressing the pinion IN and then making sure the drive shaft is pressed > onto the pinion shaft tight.
So there is no slop or play... then with blue lock tight on setscrew tighten it up.
thank yo and to thefirst fella who responded funny you guys are telling me this cause the last couple months been pulling throttle full and hammering my brakes proir to my heats i never did in previous years so i know what you guys are telling me is exactly what my issue is great advice
thanks
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:27 AM   #6619
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MIP "Puck" center drives worth it? Also are they compatible with the King Headz dual bearing setup?

By the way, new alu caster blocks are working great, steering is much sharper!
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:37 AM   #6620
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MIP "Puck" center drives worth it? Also are they compatible with the King Headz dual bearing setup?

By the way, new alu caster blocks are working great, steering is much sharper!
The pucks will work with the king headz setup, and are a nice addition.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:38 AM   #6621
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I had the pucks...they wore out after 12 packs.....i think that is unacceptable...emailed mip, they asked for pictures, and i was then ignored after multiple emails...i would never run them again after that kind of service from MIP....many people love them, but i will prob not be buying any mip product after this
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:45 AM   #6622
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I was going to ask about durability. Wonder why they wore so quickly?
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:48 AM   #6623
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Idk..i had run them previously and gotten around 40 runs on the older pucks...i swapped to new ones as they were getting worn and bam, 12ish packs later gone...i threw my tekno's back in, and now i don't even think about it...
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:14 AM   #6624
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I was going to ask about durability. Wonder why they wore so quickly?
Is this Tim? I like them so far on mine. I hate wearing outdrives and pins and having metal dust all over so that and the tight drive train was the main reason I went to them. I have probably 15 packs on them now with a 4800 and they are showing signs of wear but still ok to run. At $6 for a pack of pucks it's not that bad, and would rather deal with that then the pins and outdrives wearing.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:18 AM   #6625
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Originally Posted by rivalshad View Post
Is this Tim? I like them so far on mine. I hate wearing outdrives and pins and having metal dust all over so that and the tight drive train was the main reason I went to them. I have probably 15 packs on them now with a 4800 and they are showing signs of wear but still ok to run. At $6 for a pack of pucks it's not that bad, and would rather deal with that then the pins and outdrives wearing.
Hey, I am in protective custody, you aren't supposed to out me like that!

I think I might pull the trigger, order some spare pucks as well. I too like the idea of not wearing outdrives and pins! In my opinion, the kit should come with some spares, I bet more people would buy them!
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:04 PM   #6626
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Problem is the Puck outdrives do wear down and once they are not perfectly smooth the plastic pucks are worn down faster. Every time you replace the pucks they last less and less. Lube often with dry lube or teflon, like after every race day is best. That's about all you can do. It's not just replacing the plastic pucks often. The CVD pins and outdrives eventually need replacement no matter what. Even the drive shaft holes for the puck pin and CVD pin wear out. If you want top performance they are that, just comes at a price.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:19 AM   #6627
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Hey, I am in protective custody, you aren't supposed to out me like that!

I think I might pull the trigger, order some spare pucks as well. I too like the idea of not wearing outdrives and pins! In my opinion, the kit should come with some spares, I bet more people would buy them!
Tim is the generic name I call everyone The kit does come with one set of spares.
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:21 AM   #6628
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Thinking of picking one of these up. What are some of the more popular motor / esc / servo combinations for it?
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:48 AM   #6629
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Tekin gen2 and a 4600 I have heard is reall popular. The hobbywing xerun 4700 I have heard is a good motor. My truck is in the mail! Lol can't wait to drive!
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:25 AM   #6630
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Hello everybody,
This is my first port on the forum. I recently got a scte 2.0 kit while visiting the US. I am back home now ( Athens, Greece ) and in the process of assembly. Car is almost ready and I will post pix soon. I also bought a tekin 4300hd motor which i plan to temporarily match with a LRP IX8 spd control. Later on I plan to buy a skyrc sc120 and return the LRP to my Mugen Eco.

Need some help on gearing. My local track is an indoor carpet and relatively small in size.should I go for the 14/40 combo?
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