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Old 04-27-2014, 10:08 AM   #6601
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Originally Posted by Hadz View Post
Hi all need some help, I am having a problem with my car for the last two races is starting to cut out around the 5 minute mark in a 7min race. I still have steering but no throttle. After about 10 sec I have throttle back but it keeps cutting out on any heavy throttle. Temps are - Motor-117, ESC-123, so not a thermal problem (I think). I am assuming it is the battery, hitting the battery cutoff, but this is only a recent occurrence. I have already reduced gearing from a 14 to 13 with no effect. Running a large outdoor 1/8 track.
RX8Gen2, 4600Pro4, 13-40, 6000mAh 65-130C Nano-Tech.
ESC Settings - 2S, LM 80, TP3 - would reducing the current limit help?
Cheers
Adjusting the current limiter so that it feels 'softer' will definitely lower the amps drawn from the battery. Remember, wheel spin = more tie wear and wasted mAH's.

The symptoms you are describing is classic low voltage cutoff.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:09 PM   #6602
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Hi all i would like to know what hex pin can i take for my losi scte?
My hex are ok but the pin broke.

What size are the axle shim or number. thx alot
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:44 AM   #6603
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
First try a different battery. If it still does it then check for loose/cold solder joints. You can lower the current limit but it will be a bandaid for a marginal battery. Also check your fan. I had the same problem and tracked it down to a shorted fan. About 4 minutes into the run the esc would try and turn on the fan and because it was shorted it would shut down throttle for about 5 seconds. But it really sounds to me like you have a battery issue and voltage is dropping to lvc under load.
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
Reduce or turn off current limit cutoff or get a larger battery like a smc 7200 or spc 8200.
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Originally Posted by JK47 View Post
Adjusting the current limiter so that it feels 'softer' will definitely lower the amps drawn from the battery. Remember, wheel spin = more tie wear and wasted mAH's.

The symptoms you are describing is classic low voltage cutoff.
Thank you for the advice, hopefully I will find a fix.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:07 AM   #6604
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Has anyone dropped the 50 bones on this new caster block??

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...scte-TLR334017

Curious how much more steering this offers? What is the stock caster block angle compared to this new 15* option?
Well I installed the new 15* Alu casters and Paired it with the short link > http://vision-racing.net/products.ht...59&id=35155322
I can say that I now have so much steering available. I TQ and win with the New setup. Also Installed the MIP Puck system . Made the power smooth and it accelerated hard and smooth. Also freshened up the frontend with some new HA ballz. Still running the 1.6 2 hole pistons 30 front 27.5 rear. Overall The new parts are a welcome addition with not only performance gains but also the fit and lack of sloop or loose fitting parts are nice . I'll post more as the Upgrade goes on.

Don't forget to check out > http://speedwyze.com/vectorworks/
There shock towers offer more adjustment for tuning of shock position and camber link.
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Last edited by XXXDad; 04-28-2014 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:23 PM   #6605
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Sounds good XXX, getting ready to install my alu casters. Also going to order the short drag link.

Did you unthread the shock ends 2mm when you installed the blocks?
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:24 PM   #6606
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Curious why most seem to be switching to the short link lately? I've tried both and keep in mind my cars are considered 'twitchy' by almost all who drive them, but didn't see the huge benefit
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:33 PM   #6607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXDad View Post
Well I installed the new 15* Alu casters and Paired it with the short link > http://vision-racing.net/products.ht...59&id=35155322
I can say that I now have so much steering available. I TQ and win with the New setup. Also Installed the MIP Puck system . Made the power smooth and it accelerated hard and smooth. Also freshened up the frontend with some new HA ballz. Still running the 1.6 2 hole pistons 30 front 27.5 rear. Overall The new parts are a welcome addition with not only performance gains but also the fit and lack of sloop or loose fitting parts are nice . I'll post more as the Upgrade goes on.

Don't forget to check out > http://speedwyze.com/vectorworks/
There shock towers offer more adjustment for tuning of shock position and camber link.
What track was that,Coral Springs?
I ordered the blocks too, just waiting on them to show up.
I ran Lake Park Sunday and it was so dry and dusty, everyone was scrambling for steering... On M4 Blockades my truck was pushing like a dumptruck.
Ended up BQ, won the B and finished 6th outta 12 in the A.
Running the Dunford setup.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:15 PM   #6608
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Originally Posted by ironzgti35 View Post
Curious why most seem to be switching to the short link lately? I've tried both and keep in mind my cars are considered 'twitchy' by almost all who drive them, but didn't see the huge benefit
I am going to try it simply based on testimonials like XXX, anything to get a leg up on friends! I will pull it off if I see any negative!
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:17 PM   #6609
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need help guys
iv chip teeth off my rear ring gear twice in a month killin 2 ring gears
so what would cause my teeth to chip iv replace twice and sure cant figure out why the second chipped let alone the first followed instruction to the letter
thanks
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:23 PM   #6610
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need help guys
iv chip teeth off my rear ring gear twice in a month killin 2 ring gears
so what would cause my teeth to chip iv replace twice and sure cant figure out why the second chipped let alone the first followed instruction to the letter
thanks
You have too much brake, or you go full throttle and hit the brakes often with the wheels off the ground. If you look at how the gears are built, they have more material supporting the teeth in the forward direction. There is less material supporting the back side of the teeth.

Turn your brake way down and your problems will be solved. I see it often at our track.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:27 PM   #6611
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I have plenty of steering with my setup, I guess those caster blocks are for guys running those really tight indoor tracks.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:30 PM   #6612
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
What track was that,Coral Springs?
I ordered the blocks too, just waiting on them to show up.
I ran Lake Park Sunday and it was so dry and dusty, everyone was scrambling for steering... On M4 Blockades my truck was pushing like a dumptruck.
Ended up BQ, won the B and finished 6th outta 12 in the A.
Running the Dunford setup.
Doog, did you try a small pin tire ? What's your diff oils?
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:20 PM   #6613
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
I have plenty of steering with my setup, I guess those caster blocks are for guys running those really tight indoor tracks.
Tight indoor track here. I could use a bit more steering, especially now, the new layout was set up for the stock nationals, a buggy friendly track.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:31 PM   #6614
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Doog, did you try a small pin tire ? What's your diff oils?
All I had were M2 and M4 Blockades and some MegaBytes that were about 80% worn. When they blew the track off and you could actually see the groove starting to come in, the MegaBytes were money... but only for a few laps, it was so dry and dusty it went skating by lap 3.
The Blockades were my only other option, so thats what I went for.
Diffs were 5-7-5, its the Dunford setup, to the T.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
Tight indoor track here. I could use a bit more steering, especially now, the new layout was set up for the stock nationals, a buggy friendly track.
Have you tried removing the front sway bar? An old trick from the 1.0 that seemed to help alot.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:35 PM   #6615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoogieLee View Post
What track was that,Coral Springs?
I ordered the blocks too, just waiting on them to show up.
I ran Lake Park Sunday and it was so dry and dusty, everyone was scrambling for steering... On M4 Blockades my truck was pushing like a dumptruck.
Ended up BQ, won the B and finished 6th outta 12 in the A.
Running the Dunford setup.
Short Link quick tight turning...15* helps also, race against a Hekno and you'll wish you could turn under him. To each his own, I run outdoor loose tracks, Like Coral Springs and Mills Pond. The top guys are running cars with a lot of turning. So you need to be able to match or beat there turning to stay tight and maintain your inside fast line. It's working for me.... if you beat me with your setup..... I'll ask you for it. Just passing on the good true working setup changes I made and like.
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