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Old 04-23-2014, 01:56 PM   #6571
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Thanks for the great feedback guys, seems some are doing better than others with them, apart from making less noise does anybody feel they made the truck faster due to the less rotating mass?

I'm also looking at tekins new 550 4300 motor, anybody running this care to share thoughts on it.
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:07 PM   #6572
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Thanks for the great feedback guys, seems some are doing better than others with them, apart from making less noise does anybody feel they made the truck faster due to the less rotating mass?

I'm also looking at tekins new 550 4300 motor, anybody running this care to share thoughts on it.
Massive bottom end torque. That motor is a BEAST!
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:59 PM   #6573
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Originally Posted by RossNZ View Post
Thanks for the great feedback guys, seems some are doing better than others with them, apart from making less noise does anybody feel they made the truck faster due to the less rotating mass?

I'm also looking at tekins new 550 4300 motor, anybody running this care to share thoughts on it.
It's more then the truck needs by far! But it sure is fun! Lol
I have one myself and its great. Be prepared to replace several axle shafts ! The pro4 hd 4300 will destroy them if you're running a high bite track. I personally haven't tried the tekno shafts yet but using them will add to rotating mass but I'm sure they're stronger then the stock ones. Good luck!
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:55 PM   #6574
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It's more then the truck needs by far! But it sure is fun! Lol
I have one myself and its great. Be prepared to replace several axle shafts ! The pro4 hd 4300 will destroy them if you're running a high bite track. I personally haven't tried the tekno shafts yet but using them will add to rotating mass but I'm sure they're stronger then the stock ones. Good luck!
Dunford ran the 4300 for most of last year and never had drive train issues with his truck. We run on high bite clay (slicks even) or sugar outdoor which is about as grippy as you get. Maybe we don't drive as punched as some but the stock system should be able to take the power no problem. Yeah things will wear but break no. Make sure you lube your CV joints (Casper-RC extreme grease is great for this!) and thread lock your set screw for the cross pin for the center joints.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:47 PM   #6575
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Originally Posted by RossNZ View Post
Thanks for the great feedback guys, seems some are doing better than others with them, apart from making less noise does anybody feel they made the truck faster due to the less rotating mass?

I'm also looking at tekins new 550 4300 motor, anybody running this care to share thoughts on it.
I can't tell you the Pucks make the truck turn faster laps, but the wt difference when looking at rotating mass is awesome. Think about throwing a 20lb bowling ball and then throw a 10lb ball. It's a big difference in effort to move it but the lighter ball might not improve your score

That 4300 is a beast on 2s. Fastest 2s motor I have run. Bad thing is that it sucks amps under load like crazy. Can melt lipo plugs and the power can be a hand full at times. Yeap, it's a great motor. Love it, lots of fun. I'm turning faster laps with a slower motor myself No regrets about having the monster though. Just makes you understand what throttle control is on another level!
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:00 PM   #6576
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I've had my 2.0 out twice now and have broken body post both times, first time a front one and an rear on the 2nd time. I am not a basher and done this at the track practicing... I am running a Proline Evo body...

1. Anyone else had this problem?

2. Could the Evo body be too stiff and causing this
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:55 PM   #6577
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I've had my 2.0 out twice now and have broken body post both times, first time a front one and an rear on the 2nd time. I am not a basher and done this at the track practicing... I am running a Proline Evo body...

1. Anyone else had this problem?

2. Could the Evo body be too stiff and causing this
I had that problem with the evo body. It needed the mounting posts to be raised up for clearance. I ended up moving the mounts up on the shock tower putting the lower mount holes in the upper shock tower mount and using a longer screw with a nut on the end. You're only using two screws instead of 4 so I recommend Nutting them. That allowed me to not have so much of the post sticking up and didn't have any problems after.
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Old 04-24-2014, 05:26 AM   #6578
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Dunford ran the 4300 for most of last year and never had drive train issues with his truck. We run on high bite clay (slicks even) or sugar outdoor which is about as grippy as you get. Maybe we don't drive as punched as some but the stock system should be able to take the power no problem. Yeah things will wear but break no. Make sure you lube your CV joints (Casper-RC extreme grease is great for this!) and thread lock your set screw for the cross pin for the center joints.
I was running mine on an ultra high bite felt surface that provided enough traction that with 5-5-3 diff oils the truck would do wheel stands like a funny car! Oh they break! Went thru 3 sets of axle shafts in approximately 8 weeks. Had several others at the track with the same issue. I even sheared the cross pin in the dog bone end once! How the outdrive survived I'll never know.
All that asside, the scte2.0 is a beast! Love this truck!
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #6579
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I admit it, I'm one of those guys who hates sloppy parts. Wheels that wobble and flop from extra play make it impossible for me to repeat settings for caster and toe. After swapping to the MIP steering rods a year ago I found myself replacing the ackerman plate often to take out slop. I have been looking for a ball bearing unit a long time.

I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.

I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.

The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.

I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.

See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155320
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155322
I just installed the these links last night based on this thread. Nice work on them. It however did not entirely clear up my steering. I know RPM makes a rod end kit, but has anyone experimented with any traxxas rod ends. This would be nice to not have to mail order something and get some traxxas stuff at the LHS.

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Old 04-24-2014, 11:15 AM   #6580
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Originally Posted by Errokk View Post
I was running mine on an ultra high bite felt surface that provided enough traction that with 5-5-3 diff oils the truck would do wheel stands like a funny car! Oh they break! Went thru 3 sets of axle shafts in approximately 8 weeks. Had several others at the track with the same issue. I even sheared the cross pin in the dog bone end once! How the outdrive survived I'll never know.
All that asside, the scte2.0 is a beast! Love this truck!
Ok you win on the traction side!
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:46 AM   #6581
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Has anyone dropped the 50 bones on this new caster block??

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...scte-TLR334017

Curious how much more steering this offers? What is the stock caster block angle compared to this new 15* option?
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:43 PM   #6582
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Has anyone dropped the 50 bones on this new caster block??

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...scte-TLR334017

Curious how much more steering this offers? What is the stock caster block angle compared to this new 15* option?
Steering and stability are better.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:32 PM   #6583
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I just installed the these links last night based on this thread. Nice work on them. It however did not entirely clear up my steering. I know RPM makes a rod end kit, but has anyone experimented with any traxxas rod ends. This would be nice to not have to mail order something and get some traxxas stuff at the LHS.

RickM
I used to run the Traxxas rod ends on my 1.0, so when I built the 2.0 I used them from the get go.
I believe they were off the Traxxas Jato, and you have to use 440 hardware as the ID of the Traxxas rod ends are slightly smaller.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:57 PM   #6584
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My build is ready, I have used a losa6045 to make the servo link bulletproof, had some other annoying details which may be small so but the rain didn't let me run it last weekend so I am getting anxious to drive, please forgive me if these are non-issues.
1, the servo mount has fixed positions between mounting holes, so do my servo (ko rsx response hc) and only two of the holes match. Is it OK to only use two screw to mount the servo or is there any mod to the mount? I want to avoid trimming the servo case if possible.
2. the front shock bodies are darker than the rest of the aluminum shock parts, is it reason to be concerned?

3. one of the turnbuckles has a different finish from the others; it is satin and a bit darker. It seems to be the same size; is it somehow substantially different?
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Old 04-24-2014, 03:31 PM   #6585
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My build is ready, I have used a losa6045 to make the servo link bulletproof, had some other annoying details which may be small so but the rain didn't let me run it last weekend so I am getting anxious to drive, please forgive me if these are non-issues.
1, the servo mount has fixed positions between mounting holes, so do my servo (ko rsx response hc) and only two of the holes match. Is it OK to only use two screw to mount the servo or is there any mod to the mount? I want to avoid trimming the servo case if possible.
2. the front shock bodies are darker than the rest of the aluminum shock parts, is it reason to be concerned?

3. one of the turnbuckles has a different finish from the others; it is satin and a bit darker. It seems to be the same size; is it somehow substantially different?
1. are they on opposite sides of the servo? (long ways). I would like to see all 4 in there and I find it off it does not fit. what exact servo you putting in there? Servo's tend to be pretty std.

2. Just different batches of anodize. I would not be concerned at all.

3. Again plating process can effect finsih. I would not be too concerned.
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