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Old 04-14-2014, 03:16 PM   #6541
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Originally Posted by JK47 View Post
Hey Casper. First of all, thank you for spending time on this forum and answering our questions. Same goes for the rest of the TLR team.

So on to my question… have you ever used droop as a tuning tool? I race on outdoor, hard packed tracks which blue grooves and sometimes end up with a fine layer of dust depending on the humidity (east coast). I find my SCTE runs better with less droop. In order to get everyone on the same page, when I say 'less droop' I mean that I limit the downward travel of the arm to LESS than what it is stock (or without adjustments). I find that I am still able to get the steering required to rotate around turns and the truck just 'feels' better and more responsive. With full droop (arms all the way down) I feel the truck has too much body roll and takes longer to react to inputs and I also tend to overdrive the truck, meaning it turns TOO much if that makes any sense.

The reason I ask this question is that in all the setup sheets available for the SCTE, almost no one mentions droop settings or if they do, state they UNSCREW the shock bottom eyelet 2 turns which INCREASES droop => increase body roll => slow down the truck's reaction further. Is this really how you guys drive?

When I see vids of your trucks (TLR team guys), they seem VERY reactive and have VERY limited body roll around the turns. The inside radius of the truck barely lifts up if at all and it looks like there is not a whole lot of weight transfer going on. Especially on some of the higher grip tracks on the west coast, your trucks almost look like carpet TC's lol. This just does not compute in my head. I know you can get the same 'feel' by increasing oil weights and changing roll center, but the setup sheets online do not reflect this.

The only downside I've experienced due to limiting droop is that the truck feels less 'plush' when coming off big jumps. When i am able to cleanly downside the jump, I can accelerated MUCH quicker and its sooo smooth. When I over jump and land flat, it feels like it hits harder (which makes sense).

Could you provide some input to my observations? When I ask the local drivers about droop, they often don't understand what it does or don't touch it as a tuning option. Thanks in advance!
Absolutely we play with droop thus the unthreaded shock ends. Now when grip goes way up like slicks time for indoor clay or outdoor blue groove we will limit travel or take away droop and make a few other little changes to help numb the car some some it is easier to drive and will be less likely to traction roll. But our "normal" track settings do have extra droop in them. Again depends on how the track is. I will be posting Ryan and I's blue groove/slicks setup shortly at www.casper-rc.com Going to run this weekend and take some measurements of where we end up so I can document it properly.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:23 PM   #6542
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Hey everyone...just wanted to let you all know about our aluminum front spindle carriers for the SCTE that are ready to ship. They now have 15 degrees of caster to allow for more weight transfer to the rear. We also raised up the spindle itself to adjust bone plunge and also added more steering throw.

Some words of wisdom so to speak, lol...you will need to unscrew your front shock ends 2 more turns from wherever you are to make up for the raised spindle.

You may see some additional rubbing with the extra steering throw and will want to dremel accordingly.

We tried to give you some of what we learned form the 22-4 and 8ight series updates with one carrier set.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR334017
Ryan, sounds great but it looks like the aluminum is really thin in one area. How's the durability?
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:33 AM   #6543
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Ryan, sounds great but it looks like the aluminum is really thin in one area. How's the durability?
We have been running them for a while no with no issues thusfar. We did have to strengthen up a couple areas, you should have seen the first prototypes, lol.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:16 AM   #6544
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Yeah we have run them for a while and they hold up great. Handing is well worth the upgrade as well!

Cold morning put the truck in to the wall broke a spindle (first ever on this truck!) caster block was fine. (actually the spindle I think is the first suspension part I have EVER broke on this truck!) Then again we modified those spindles as well for the +2 part of the new spindles before we figured them out so that might have been part of the failure.

Anyway they look thin but they are tuff!
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:41 AM   #6545
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Nice driving and your truck looked good. Would love to see your setup for carpet!
Thanks and sorry, havent seen your post.
Diffs 10/20/10 work great for me on carpet, shocks with 35/30, black springs front cut 1 coil and silver rear - ride height between 20-18mm. We use Schumacher Mini Pins with foam insterts - outside and inside rows are cut on the front. If the car is to sensible I use closed cell inserts in front und use the 4 hole for the camber link in front.
Anti roll bar 2,3 in front and 2,0 rear (1/8 Buggy sway bar kit)
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:52 PM   #6546
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Default My thoughts on the Vision Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates

I admit it, I'm one of those guys who hates sloppy parts. Wheels that wobble and flop from extra play make it impossible for me to repeat settings for caster and toe. After swapping to the MIP steering rods a year ago I found myself replacing the ackerman plate often to take out slop. I have been looking for a ball bearing unit a long time.

I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.

I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.

The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.

I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.

See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155320
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155322
Attached Thumbnails
Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-ackerman-plates.jpg  

Last edited by Thunder Trail; 04-19-2014 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:00 AM   #6547
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
That hyperlink doesn't work.

Anyway: see here for the long steering link, and here for the short steering link.
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:45 AM   #6548
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Thumbs up I bought the shorty

http://vision-racing.net/products.ht...=0&sort=normal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
I admit it, I'm one of those guys who hates sloppy parts. Wheels that wobble and flop from extra play make it impossible for me to repeat settings for caster and toe. After swapping to the MIP steering rods a year ago I found myself replacing the ackerman plate often to take out slop. I have been looking for a ball bearing unit a long time.

I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.

I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.

The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.

I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.

See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...=0&sort=normal
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
That hyperlink doesn't work.

Anyway: see here for the long steering link, and here for the short steering link.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:02 AM   #6549
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just type the url and select products.

boom that easy.

thanks for the tip i'll be ordering that!
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:09 AM   #6550
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
That hyperlink doesn't work.

Anyway: see here for the long steering link, and here for the short steering link.
Thanks. I updated post with your links. See how that does.

Now I need a better set of camber links, NO SLOP, for my Pro8 conversion. Something bigger than MIP links would be best. I used some 6.8mm steel balls with the stock links 2 years ago and that lasted an entire season. I had some old CEN parts at the time and have not looked at a better solution than the MIP kit until now. Looking for ideas, anything other than another set of HA balls.

Last edited by Thunder Trail; 04-19-2014 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:26 AM   #6551
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Yeah we have run them for a while and they hold up great. Handing is well worth the upgrade as well!

Cold morning put the truck in to the wall broke a spindle (first ever on this truck!) caster block was fine. (actually the spindle I think is the first suspension part I have EVER broke on this truck!) Then again we modified those spindles as well for the +2 part of the new spindles before we figured them out so that might have been part of the failure.

Anyway they look thin but they are tuff!
Can you tell us how they affect steering? More or less aggressive?

What are the stock caster numbers? 10?

How does this work along with changes to the pill inserts that change caster by moving a arms? Is it not the same adjustment?

One more, what chassis setup changes have you tried that worked with these other than longer shock?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:44 AM   #6552
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I am guilty of having full trust in team TLR, I wonder why? Hmmmm..... Ordered my spindle carriers today!!!
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:56 PM   #6553
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Hey guys,
I just picked a scte 2.0, and was wondering if they're any upgrades that would be recommended for it?
Thanks
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:57 PM   #6554
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Hey guys,
I just picked a scte 2.0, and was wondering if they're any upgrades that would be recommended for it?
Thanks
The only thing needed to make it work to it's full potential are the option springs. Most guys run the latest setup on casper rc. Durability wise there are no issues. The truck is tough as nails.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:37 PM   #6555
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I have been running the Dunford set-up for the last couple of months (exactly as noted) and it works killer on our indoor clay track. I am interested in seeing some set-ups when for a high bite (i get traction roll when clay track gets dry).

I just ordered the new spindles... now I have to ask... what the hell is 'bone plunge' ???
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