R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-04-2014, 10:24 AM   #6316
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,731
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
Thanks for answering Casper. I am just so bummed because I was so excited about this kit. How often are you at OCRC? I was going to head there this Saturday for practice. You think you'll be there? Maybe you can point out how I'm doing this diff wrong?
I like kits that require a bit of fine tuning because that means tolerances are tight which keeps the slack away for a while. I'm really not down on Losi or anything but this has put a bad taste in my mouth
I will be at IERC this sat for the opening round of the JBRL. Ryan Dunford is there most Friday nights and works some Sat. at OCRC. If I am not there he is a better resource then myself anyway as the SCTE is his project. (Ryan works for TLR I am just a team driver) but if you find either of us we will both be glad to help you out. Jake in the shop is a great resource as well as Nick and the rest of the OCRC crew.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Errokk View Post
Any ideas?
Are you breaking pins or what exactly is going bad? I have broken a few front CVA cross pins over the years but usually if I make sure the pinion to coupler are tight agains the bearings (you have to take the front diff out to make sure you push the pinion agains the case and make sure the coupler is all the way on) this helps with front pins breaking. Other than that I have not had many issues other than normal wear on the stock drive line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by braderb View Post
Casper or anyone else, I have a shock question.

I have no problem getting zero rebound. My issue is the piston being pulled back up when its extended. This really came to light on my 22-4. Setup should be 19", but I can't get more than 15'. My piston goes back up 3/4 of the way.

No youtube video addresses how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston, just no rebound.

Now I know why I'm bottoming out after jumps.

Everyone, try pulling your piston down and see for yourself how far your piston travels back up. I gave a pistons to 4 different people at my track. All pistons travelled up over 1/2 way.

I hope Team Losi will make a new shock rebuild video that will address how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston while making a zero rebound shock.

AND FASTů...
If your shocks are smooth and you fully bleed them there will be a vacuum. Typically stroking the shocks a few times fast will suck a little air to balance out the shocks a little. This is part of the nature of building a shock this way. I would bet if you put the shocks on the car and ran it for a pack and pulled them back off they should not feel this way.

The shock will not want to the vacuum and will take in some air to balance out the shock

Assuming you are not removing too much oil in bleeding the shock (this should be done quite slowly) the vacuum should not be that bad if you stroke the shocks a few times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drepus View Post
Glad to offer the encouragement! This truck is so fun to drive that i like to help when I hear someone struggling.
As a tip for high high grip situations or when you have way more power then the tires can handle try turning down the current limiter in the rx8 till you notice a slight reduction in acceleration. Then go back up 1 or 2 higher on the setting. That way if you have a "heavy" throttle finger at least you are not dramatically overpowering the drivetrain. This will reduce wear on everything and reduce heat in the motor and almost always lead to smoother/lower lap times.
Since your track is going to dirt you will need to change your setup. Try Caspers latest setup on his site.
Have fun playing in the dirt.
+1 on current limiter (and the setup) Check out the extreme grease for lubing your CVA's and ring and pinons!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieFlow View Post
Hello!

I have an SCTE 2.0 and I am very happy with it!
I recently bought a Axial Exo Terra, and the shocks that came with it are pretty bad and I would like to replace them.

I tested my SCTE 2.0 shocks on it and it works perfectly.
I would like to buy the same shocks but I cannot find them on Amain, is it not possible to buy the entire shocks?

Thanks!
TLR/LOSI does not sell a complete SCTE shock kit. You will need to buy all the parts and assembly them. (you may be able to find shock sets on ebay as guys parts out kits over there from time to time.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 11:09 AM   #6317
Tech Apprentice
 
CookieFlow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 80
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the tips Rcgod and Casper
I did check ebay and didn't found SCTE 2.0 shocks, only SCTE, 8ight and 22 shocks
Could you PM me the ones you found Rcgod?

Thank you very much guys!
CookieFlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 11:20 AM   #6318
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,731
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieFlow View Post
Thanks for the tips Rcgod and Casper
I did check ebay and didn't found SCTE 2.0 shocks, only SCTE, 8ight and 22 shocks
Could you PM me the ones you found Rcgod?

Thank you very much guys!
I found these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Team-Los...item27df982dc6

I would just get a list of the parts you need from the SCTE exploded parts sheet and order the parts.

Or get this set and upgrade the caps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-TEN-SCT...item20dc7fa731
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 12:28 PM   #6319
Tech Apprentice
 
CookieFlow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 80
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Casper!
1st ones look really nice, price is a bit higher than what I would have like to pay, but maybe
CookieFlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 12:43 PM   #6320
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,731
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieFlow View Post
Thanks Casper!
1st ones look really nice, price is a bit higher than what I would have like to pay, but maybe
Yeah the first set have a bunch of TSR stuff I am not sure what all that is about but they are full option set.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 01:12 PM   #6321
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PYRO689 View Post
Hi all,
Just built a new 2.0 and it seems like I have a lot of excessive play with the CV Driveshafts...I am able to move them back and forth a bit in all the spindle/carriers. is this normal? I have placed a washer/spacer between the bearing and the wheel hexes and it seems to take up a majority of the play. Will there be any issues running these spacers. Or is the play I am experiencing normal and just leave it as is?
Thanks in advance
Ken
Ken, this play is normal and actually for most people will make the truck easier to drive. It is that way by design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
OK so I am putting together my brand new $500 kit (and I mention price because of how ripped off I feel) and am encountering some issues. And before I rant, you should know that I have an enginerring degree, race motocross every other weekend (Transworld MX - Muscle Milk Series) and have been building kits since I was 10. What I am getting at is that I know how to building / work on anything mechanical.

1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.

2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.

3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.

4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?

I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
I am not sure exactly where to start with all of this but I am sorry for your frustrations. This truck has evolved a long way from its RTR roots and thus some things are still evolving on it. It does however provide you with the best 4WD SC out of any box you can buy today.

1. We are still looking into this to see if this can be resolved properly. The bearings were initially too loose on the diff and so we tightened up the tolerances and so they got a bit tight. Most go on with a tiny bit of work but it is still work.

2. I use a powered driver and MIP tips and have yet to strip one of these screws. I run them straight in with no grease and no tapping. For those using hand tools, I always recommend grease and tapping these as these holes were also tightened up so as not to strip. I do not take being called a a-hole lightly but realize you are venting so I will just assume that is what it is. HH CS would be happy to send you new ones if you so desire.

3. I have never had an issue with the diff in the housing, in either the front or rear. If you feel there is an issue, you can surely contact HH customer service and they will get you a new one. It is possible that the bearings may not be fully seated on the diff and this could possibly cause this. When you place the screws into this system and screw it together, it aligns everything.

4. I have not heard such remarks on the instructions. As for as metric versus standard, this vehicle includes metric screws where they engineering wise were needed. I do hear you on this and this is an issue coming from when this vehicle was originated and something that we want to address in time.

As far as your AE wants...sorry to hear you feel this way. I am incredibly familiar with AE and their quality and I can say our quality is very good.
__________________
-Ryan Dunford
Horizon Hobby Spektrum Product Manager
TLR--Spektrum--Horizon Hobby--Tekin--Venom--Pro-Line--Sticky Kicks--Bradley FLD--ImagineIt Graphics--Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22T 2.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0, TLR 8ight-E 4.0, DX6R
hacker07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 01:50 PM   #6322
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mechanicville, NY
Posts: 141
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered4life250 View Post
OK so I am putting together my brand new $500 kit (and I mention price because of how ripped off I feel) and am encountering some issues. And before I rant, you should know that I have an enginerring degree, race motocross every other weekend (Transworld MX - Muscle Milk Series) and have been building kits since I was 10. What I am getting at is that I know how to building / work on anything mechanical.

1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.

2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.

3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.

<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-9.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-8.jpg"/></a>


4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?

I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
I agree. this is the worse kit I have ever built, and my first Losi as well. Myself and two other guys had a similar binding issue with the front diff.. What we come to find out is that the issue is tied to your first issue, the bearings. After pressing the daylights out of them, that just gets them flush to the edge. After tapping them beyond flush the binding went away. Possibly they are not 100% true until taped further.
mconway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 02:48 PM   #6323
Tech Regular
 
drepus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 401
Default

Hey guys when I find a diff bearing is really hard to push on I use a little fine sandpaper and just lightly sand the surface the bearing presses onto until the bearing can be squeezed on firmly by hand. The diff centres itself nicely and no binding.
You only need to remove the tiniest bit of material so take it slow.
__________________
Dave Henry
TLR/Losi Team Driver,Team Horizon,Spektrum,Dynamite,JR,Nitrotane,AKA,CRC,Pinnacle Hobby, racing since '86 (at least trying!)

drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
drepus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 02:56 PM   #6324
Tech Apprentice
 
Mclogo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 96
Default

Interesting to hear, I'm coming from the latest Durango (Desc410v2) and the TLR was a dream to build compared to the rango... The only issue I had, was with the shrinked bottom caps, something you can find a solution for if you search the internet...
But for gearboxes, try tightening them on other kits... Most of them will bind if tightened to much.

Love my SCTE 2.0, it's a luxury SC out of the kit...
__________________
Yokomo B-Max4 III // B-Max2 MR
Yokomo YZ-2 << NOSRAM >>
Mclogo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 04:53 PM   #6325
Tech Master
 
BlackStarRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Miramar, Florida
Posts: 1,786
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Seeing that 80% of the trucks in my area are scte's there must be something to them and if all you have t complain about is a bearing and a diff case then wow! I have read horror stories in other threads before purchasing my scte and its been a work horse for me.... So here's a cheer for losi!!!
__________________
☆ Daryl Boston | TeamBlackStarRacing |
☆ TLR | Hot Bodies | Hobbywing | Savox | MT4S | AKA | Avid |
☆ TLR 22 2.0 MM | HB D413 | Schumacher K1|
☆ Coral Springs RC Track | Mills Pond RC Track | South Florida|
BlackStarRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:19 PM   #6326
Tech Addict
 
Errokk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mckenzie, TN
Posts: 659
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default Here's a picture for you Casper.

The CVA its self is snapping off around the barrel and pin. I'm sure that its my fat finger causing the problem but just wanted to make sure that's all it was.
Attached Thumbnails
Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-20140304_181050.jpg  
__________________
Love racing! I just suck at driving...
Garage:
Ten SCTE, TLR22, Xb4
Errokk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:24 PM   #6327
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,731
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Errokk View Post
The CVA its self is snapping off around the barrel and pin. I'm sure that its my fat finger causing the problem but just wanted to make sure that's all it was.
Oh wow. Yeah never broke one of those EVER. HUH. I will let Ryan chime in.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 4.0 SR, TLR 22T 3.0 (laydown), TLR 22-4 2.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:31 PM   #6328
Tech Addict
 
Errokk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mckenzie, TN
Posts: 659
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Oh wow. Yeah never broke one of those EVER. HUH. I will let Ryan chime in.
The bad thing is the axles are only 6-8 batteries old.
__________________
Love racing! I just suck at driving...
Garage:
Ten SCTE, TLR22, Xb4
Errokk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:43 PM   #6329
Tech Regular
 
drepus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 401
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Errokk View Post
The CVA its self is snapping off around the barrel and pin. I'm sure that its my fat finger causing the problem but just wanted to make sure that's all it was.
You don't have your steering modded to get a tighter turn do you?
__________________
Dave Henry
TLR/Losi Team Driver,Team Horizon,Spektrum,Dynamite,JR,Nitrotane,AKA,CRC,Pinnacle Hobby, racing since '86 (at least trying!)

drepus???? it's "superd" backwards since it was taken!
drepus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2014, 05:54 PM   #6330
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: nassau new york
Posts: 221
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mconway View Post
I agree. this is the worse kit I have ever built, and my first Losi as well. Myself and two other guys had a similar binding issue with the front diff.. What we come to find out is that the issue is tied to your first issue, the bearings. After pressing the daylights out of them, that just gets them flush to the edge. After tapping them beyond flush the binding went away. Possibly they are not 100% true until taped further.
I had the same problem.just build it and run it.it will break in.mine is smooth as butter after one night of racing.
tripleh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:09 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net