BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

18 good lord.....lol ill try a larger pinion

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

18 will make you faster not slower LOL. stick with your 12 and take it easy with the lead finger. Slow is faster.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

lol.... you racing tomorrow? if so what ride height are you running? which springs?

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

I'm gonna try and make it.

Run the Lundsford set up.

black fronts, silver rears, might need to tweak depending how surface is.

25 mm, those jumps are big and you don't want to chassis slap.

CaptainHowdyt13

iTrader: (33)

What spares should I stock up on? Also, I'm going to be running a 14t with a pro4 4600 (non HD). Think I'll be aite with a 14t?

flysullivan

iTrader: (31)

Hey guys, is the 2.0 servo Mount really necessary for the bcd H1 conversion? I like the box from the 1.0 and I added the jammin carbon fiber plate to it. If it really makes that much of a difference I will switch. Thanks!

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

The gearing depends on your track size of course. If you're running a small indoor track I think you might want to go down a tooth, medium size track around 14 and big outdoor track around 15 or 16 I'd say.

I've had my truck for about 8 months and haven't broken a thing. It's incredible. A rocket out of the box too. I "dented" a front arm front smashing into a pole or something and saw a rear hub break on some ones once. So If I were to buy any spares it would be arms and rear hubs. I don't travel with any spares currently though.

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

I've had my truck for about a year and am really tough on it.
For spares, I would have the lower spring collars for the shocks (i lost a couple). A-arms for sure (at least front, rears aren't as necessary). I also keep body posts (i've broken at least 4 or 5). Also I would recommend having rod ends. I've only broken a rod end on the front torque chassis brace (not necessary to drive), but they are so cheap it'd be smart to have some. Other than that, maybe keep some stub axles (I've broken a couple), driveshafts (i snapped one), extra locknuts for the wheels. I've also bent a few front inner hinge pins, I just replace them when i rebuild the truck.

And personally, I keep a spare painted body because I go through them every couple months.

And never buy RPM a-arms for this. They are terrible and required a reduction in the steering EPAs (at least with stock wheels) from maybe 90% down to 60% in order to not hit the a-arms.

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

Just to save me from reading through all this forum can the Left and Right front a-arms be reversed (I have a left, need a right)? The only difference I see is a little space for the lower spring collar

PYRO689

Thanks for the input. I actually ended up ordering the Specktrum S6040. Can someone confirm that the JR Losi Aluminum Servo Arm is the correct arm?

04sti20

So I'm kinda confused. Bigger pinion = faster top end correct? Smaller obviously more low end or torque ? I have a 14 with the stock spur currently and it's smooth with enough power but I also have 12 and 13, don't like the 13 because it's not losi and it's louder for some reason. The losi ones seem to just fit right

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

If you're losing them on the track make sure you have the opening pointing out, if you don't already.

Yes, big pinion for big tracks, small pinion for small tracks. It doesn't take much change with mod 1 pinions though, they are so coarse. A tooth or two is a big difference.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Any suggestions: My front wheels seem to wobble a bit and i got about a 1-2mm play when i push + pull the wheel out and in..... any suggestions on how to fix this issue?

ses601

iTrader: (29)

confirmed

ctuinstra

I had the same thing. 1-2mm seems a bit excessive. I had about .5mm and I shimmed it up using two .2mm x 5mm x 7mm shims on each wheel. I put the shims between the bearing and the pin.

I also replaced the ackerman arm and bushings, that seemed to tighten up most of the slop in the steering. The ball joints can wear also. The 1.0 had terrible aluminum ball joints were the 2.0 had hardened balls and they last a very long time.