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Old 01-21-2014, 06:40 AM   #5971
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I was breaking the pins too until I stopped cranking down on them like I used to with the old pins that didn't have a flat spot. Just snug and some loctite on the screw. Or the kh sleeves are nice you don't even have to use the set screw if you don't want to.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:51 AM   #5972
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I was breaking the pins too until I stopped cranking down on them like I used to with the old pins that didn't have a flat spot. Just snug and some loctite on the screw. Or the kh sleeves are nice you don't even have to use the set screw if you don't want to.
I have the KH sleeves on the drive shafts. they have taken a beating and keep kicking. its the axles that arent staying together.
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:58 AM   #5973
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I run the Pro4 4300HD with 15/40 gearing and a good amount of current limit to soften the bottom end without any issue. Lately i've only been coming off 10 min mains at 130 motor 105 esc...
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:42 AM   #5974
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I run the Pro4 4300HD with 15/40 gearing and a good amount of current limit to soften the bottom end without any issue. Lately i've only been coming off 10 min mains at 130 motor 105 esc...
Wow, I've never seen anyone break a bone on this truck at ourour track. The tekno driveshafts are stronger and wear better but more $ since you have to replace the out drives too. Have you checked the bearings and front diff to make sure nothing is binding?
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:56 AM   #5975
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i checked everything up front... no binding and no bearing issues. I ordered a fresh set of front hubs, complete bearing kit, and will be reworking the front balls/plastics (they are pretty worn) anyway to rebuild the front... i wanted to wait until march or so but it seems to be wearing out faster than i hoped for... hopefully i can solve the issue its a fast truck and i'm getting better everyday i practice/race.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:10 AM   #5976
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SO... i keep snapping front cvds... pins, inner bones, new, used, rebuilt... I'm running a 13/40 on a Tekin 4300 HD, RX8 gen 2. I turned the HP down fairly low (and lost a second on my average lap time for it) and i'm still popping them.

any ideas?

I dont want to shell out cash for the tekno stuff, but i might have to. Its been so bad i've been keeping 6-8 NEW losi spares on me to make sure i make it through a race day. I made it through sundays race and went to practice (to try to get my second back) yesterday and snapped one.
Make sure the drive shaft and pinion do not have a lot of slop in the housing. I found if there is front to back play of the front drive shaft on the diff pinion hard front impacts can break teh drive pin. Take the front end apart and hold the pinon to the case bearing and install the drive shaft snug to the other side. This has helped me. I have broken a few front drive shaft CVD pins as well but when I made this small change it has stopped.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:20 AM   #5977
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thanks!
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:24 AM   #5978
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Casper, he said he's breaking front drive bones not driveshaft.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #5979
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SO... i keep snapping front cvds... pins, inner bones, new, used, rebuilt... I'm running a 13/40 on a Tekin 4300 HD, RX8 gen 2. I turned the HP down fairly low (and lost a second on my average lap time for it) and i'm still popping them.

any ideas?

I dont want to shell out cash for the tekno stuff, but i might have to. Its been so bad i've been keeping 6-8 NEW losi spares on me to make sure i make it through a race day. I made it through sundays race and went to practice (to try to get my second back) yesterday and snapped one.
You breaking the actual bone. Front center drive shaft or the ones that go to the wheels.

I have not heard of anyone going through wheel drive shafts. Something sounds very wrong. Where are they breaking.
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:40 PM   #5980
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I have broken two on the front as well. I never broken any on the 1.0 running 3x a week.This truck I have not driven as much or raced as much as I want too.
Mine have broken both at the end of the strait part of the shank towards the wheel right before it goes to the round part the pin goes in.Both in the front only.Very weird....Cheers..
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:54 PM   #5981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You breaking the actual bone. Front center drive shaft or the ones that go to the wheels.

I have not heard of anyone going through wheel drive shafts. Something sounds very wrong. Where are they breaking.
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I have broken two on the front as well. I never broken any on the 1.0 running 3x a week.This truck I have not driven as much or raced as much as I want too.
Mine have broken both at the end of the strait part of the shank towards the wheel right before it goes to the round part the pin goes in.Both in the front only.Very weird....Cheers..
I broke two front bones at the joint where it mates to the axle. Eventually I figured out I had a bad lot of bones where the slot for the crosspin was not cut deep enough and it was binding when the wheels were at full left or right. I thought about calling Losi to try and get them replaced but decided to just use them in the rear instead of spending the time on the phone trying to convince someone there was something wrong with them.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:51 AM   #5982
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This shaft has 10 runs on it... 6 full packs, 4 qual/race runs. I broke down both the fronts (both replaced at the same time) and this is what i am finding. The axle holes for the pins are ovaling out.


If the pin can hold itself together, the barrel beings to slop and oval. This one ovaled out, pitched the barrel and pin... i've had others oval out and break the shaft where it holds the barrel. Here is the ovaled shaft side where the barrel used to sit.


i previously noted that there was some "slop" in the front end. I'm pretty OCD about tracking slop and replacing the warn parts. I'm pretty new to RC (i did on road 12years ago) world and I need consistency in my truck to make sure its all driver error (and it is!). I just put in two brand new front axle sets and the slop went away.

10 runs seems a little low to have this wear... but i'll keep tracking it and collecting more data. and i'll stop throwing away all my broken ones and start taking more pictures!
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:05 PM   #5983
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One more thing along these lines, I balance all of my wheels/tires and this makes a huge difference. Bearings last longer, car handles better, and it greatly reduces vibration. This is even more important on eighth scale. You would be surprised by how out of balance many wheels/tires actually are. Food for thought!
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:16 PM   #5984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMURACN View Post
This shaft has 10 runs on it... 6 full packs, 4 qual/race runs. I broke down both the fronts (both replaced at the same time) and this is what i am finding. The axle holes for the pins are ovaling out.


If the pin can hold itself together, the barrel beings to slop and oval. This one ovaled out, pitched the barrel and pin... i've had others oval out and break the shaft where it holds the barrel. Here is the ovaled shaft side where the barrel used to sit.


i previously noted that there was some "slop" in the front end. I'm pretty OCD about tracking slop and replacing the warn parts. I'm pretty new to RC (i did on road 12years ago) world and I need consistency in my truck to make sure its all driver error (and it is!). I just put in two brand new front axle sets and the slop went away.

10 runs seems a little low to have this wear... but i'll keep tracking it and collecting more data. and i'll stop throwing away all my broken ones and start taking more pictures!

Just a couple of quicks thoughts here.
What shock mounting locations are you using on the tower and the arm in the front?
You don't accidentally have the centre diff outdrives (they have flats on them and are longer) in the front diff do you? They would cause the driveshafts to bind severely when the suspension is nearing full extension.
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:51 PM   #5985
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my shocks are hole 3 at the top and middle at the arm.

i'm purchasing brand new front/rear driveshaft cvs and axles. There is zero binding that i can find.
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