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Old 01-18-2014, 07:05 PM   #5941
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In looking at the king headz mount, does the 2nd bearing fit over the out drive?
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:25 PM   #5942
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yup
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:35 PM   #5943
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The King Headz unit really is a GREAT upgrade. If you talk to anyone who runs it, I doubt you'll hear anything but great sentiments.
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:18 PM   #5944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWolfson View Post
Open the center diff. Something is broke in there. Could be gears - could be a pin.
Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:22 PM   #5945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drepus View Post
Like Chris said definitely a broken pin or gears. How often do you disassemble and fill up the oil in your diffs?
I just recently built this truck 3 weeks ago which is the reason why Im thinking something must be broken. I havnt re-oiled any of the diffs since the build though.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:27 PM   #5946
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Originally Posted by BSCFlash View Post
The King Headz unit really is a GREAT upgrade. If you talk to anyone who runs it, I doubt you'll hear anything but great sentiments.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to pick it up. Do you run the front and motor mount as well?
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:14 PM   #5947
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Hi, just reading. If you buy the front, it's good to buy the rear mount too. It keeps the center diff housing from wearing out. I have both and I don't have to worry about my center diff leaking all the time or rebuilding either!!
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:22 AM   #5948
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if anyone is selling a clean roller let me know. I want to build a pro 8.
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:21 AM   #5949
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Originally Posted by rivalshad View Post
Thanks for the info. I'm going to pick it up. Do you run the front and motor mount as well?
It is imperative that you run both pieces. This will give you the stability of four bearings truing your center diff. It is butter!
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:14 AM   #5950
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The king heads set is amazing I race at king hobbies Jim is a great guy his pieces are top notch. I'd say the front is a Must but the set makes the out drives solid.
http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...roducts_id=945
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:21 AM   #5951
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Default Parma body works

Might not work at ROAR nationals but it works for me.
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Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:02 AM   #5952
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Default Pinion and Spur gear

Running a SCTE 2.0 at an indoor track. LSR speedway......
Anyone have a good ration for a Pinion and Spur to run?
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:58 AM   #5953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrman41 View Post
Running a SCTE 2.0 at an indoor track. LSR speedway......
Anyone have a good ration for a Pinion and Spur to run?
Let us know what motor you run, this is critical info you left out! For example, the Tekin 4300 will run a much different pinion gear than the 4600.

I run the Tekin Pro4 4600, and run a 14 tooth on larger indoor tracks and a 13 on smaller tracks. Very small tracks could go as low as a 12. Top speed can be fine tuned by reducing travel on your radio to slow it down or adding some timing (up to 25 or 35 degrees) to speed it up (with the Tekin ESC).
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:45 AM   #5954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrman41 View Post
Running a SCTE 2.0 at an indoor track. LSR speedway......
Anyone have a good ration for a Pinion and Spur to run?
I run an Orion 4T motor with an 11 pinion inside and outside. I adjust turbo and boost accordingly.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:47 AM   #5955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakotah Phend View Post
I run an Orion 4T motor with an 11 pinion inside and outside. I adjust turbo and boost accordingly.
I have seen a few setups lately with 2 pole 4/5T motors. What's the goal behind running a 4/5T over a 4300/4600/4800? I love my Schuur Speed 4300, but was thinking of changing it up to a 4600/4800 or a 4/5T.

I ended up ordering both center diff mounts, the top plate with transponder mount and the upper steering plate, I'm a sucker for hop ups
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