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Old 01-13-2014, 12:41 PM   #5911
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Thanks alot! It means alot coming from you! I have to admit I am a little disappointed I couldn't overcome my nerves in the mains, but overall I was so pumped to be able to run how I did for my first National level race. I will say one thing, everyone seemed pretty shocked when I told them I was running a 2-pole 550 4.5t motor. Anymore if I even mention 2 pole motors in 4x4 people laugh and say they aren't enough and are slow. lol.
The Novak 4.5T Ballistics were always hands down the fastest motors I've run in Pro4. Still keep some in my box.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #5912
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David Jenson a local young up and commer runs for Thunder power and uses a 2 pole 550 motor and that thing is ballisitc. It can be done. The 4 pole stuff has more bottom and if you run 540 you can save some weight but there is nothing to say 550 2 pole can't get it done for sure.
I have run the TP 550 2-ploe it is a very smooth motor and the long can feels good in the 2.0 it will run a lot cooler than the slovak 550

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I have run the exact same motor/esc combination as MonsterSummit, it certainly was ballistic. I kept frying escs, though.

In the meantime, I run Casper's exact setup now while my esc is being repaired. Many of us, like Casper, like the Tekin 4600 better than the 4300HD for this light of a truck. Giving the 4600, like Casper, some timing--maybe 25 to 35--really helps the top end. I am actually faster with the 4600 over the 4300 as it is more driveable.
I did not like the 4300 at all,l had to turn epa down so far to keep from doing wheelies,just too much motor.4600 way more doable
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:22 PM   #5913
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The Novak 4.5T Ballistics were always hands down the fastest motors I've run in Pro4. Still keep some in my box.
The 4.5HT novaks were pretty awesome. (they don't sell the HT rotor anymore.) The Tekin 4.5 SC4X is a great motor as well. For open flowing tracks were you want lots of top end they are great or if you just want a little less on the bottom.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:55 PM   #5914
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Hey Ryan/Casper or anyone else whose recently purchased a TLR SCTE Pre-cut body.

Has TLR fixed the dimples for the mounting holes? I remember them being off slightly for the 2.0 with the kit body. Which were off, the front or the back? Also, how high are your front and rear body posts?

Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:30 AM   #5915
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Originally Posted by Tony Vega View Post
Hey Ryan/Casper or anyone else whose recently purchased a TLR SCTE Pre-cut body.

Has TLR fixed the dimples for the mounting holes? I remember them being off slightly for the 2.0 with the kit body. Which were off, the front or the back? Also, how high are your front and rear body posts?

Thanks.
I don't know about the dimples. I have always just marked the body and not worried about them. I have some of the new bodies waiting to be mounted but have not done it yet. Ryan should be able to help.

Body posts. I can't remember that off the top of my head. I think Ryans is a hole lower in the front then mine. We basically run the body as low as we can with out tire rub. I think it is 1 hole showing in the front and no holes in the rear but may be off.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:12 AM   #5916
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You can drill where the dimples are marked but will need to remove the rear body mount spacers and put them in the front to move the whole body back a little. It works fine. I think I prefer to just mark the body and drill instead though.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:42 AM   #5917
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I recommend this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ost-Marker-Set

If you run a lot if short course this is invaluable. Also useful for touring cars, crawlers etc.

I use this instead of dimples - especially on the SCTE as the body mounts bend and typically are not in the same location as the dimples. Typically the rear mounts are a few mm forward.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:05 AM   #5918
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I recommend this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ost-Marker-Set

If you run a lot if short course this is invaluable. Also useful for touring cars, crawlers etc.

I use this instead of dimples - especially on the SCTE as the body mounts bend and typically are not in the same location as the dimples. Typically the rear mounts are a few mm forward.
Nice find bud . I'm aweful at mounting bodies lol.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:19 AM   #5919
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The Thunder Power 4.5T is what I have in mine. I have yet to feel like I am ever being out motored on the track.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:21 AM   #5920
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How does the SCTE 2.0 compare to the SCTE with the pro4mance kit handling wise?
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:41 PM   #5921
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The Thunder Power 4.5T is what I have in mine. I have yet to feel like I am ever being out motored on the track.
I agree very awesome and smooth,I may have lost the sensor board in mine something happened with only 6 or 7 races on it.I threw the HW 4000 back in which I still think is the best motor for the money, never hot and cant seem to kill it. On a bigger track the tp motor is very nice tho.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:14 PM   #5922
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How does the SCTE 2.0 compare to the SCTE with the pro4mance kit handling wise?
They are similar. The 2.0 keeps the weight more centered in the chassis then the MIP kit does. It moves the weight a little further forward for better front to back weight balance.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:02 AM   #5923
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What radio box if any can be used on the 2.0? Ive done multiple searches to no avail.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:57 AM   #5924
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Team associated box works perfectly, several of my guys use it ... $3.69! Part number ASC7896

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ceiver-Box-GT2
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:36 PM   #5925
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Team associated box works perfectly, several of my guys use it ... $3.69! Part number ASC7896

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ceiver-Box-GT2
Awesome. Thanks.
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