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Old 11-30-2013, 08:37 PM   #5731
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Hello peeps..I am currently running the 2-11-13 set up on my 2.0 and like it pretty well but was wondering how the latest set up 7-1-13 compares to the original set up? I am getting these set ups on Casper's site..

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Old 12-02-2013, 09:35 AM   #5732
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Ryan and I run the 7/1/13 setup most everywhere. We will need to post up a blue groove setup soon as we run some slightly different settings for shock diff and rear camber link for high traction conditions but the 7/1 setup has more agressive steering while still not sacrificing rear traction. The Feb setup is a little more tame and easier to drive but has a little bit of a push to it.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:50 PM   #5733
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Hey guys...I have been running on a tight indoor track...packed clay...I am getting a lot of push on power around corners...any good tips to help this out? I am new to racing and tuning for that matter...you don't have to tune much when you bash...hahaha
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:13 PM   #5734
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Originally Posted by zuki250 View Post
Hey guys...I have been running on a tight indoor track...packed clay...I am getting a lot of push on power around corners...any good tips to help this out? I am new to racing and tuning for that matter...you don't have to tune much when you bash...hahaha
What is your setup right now?
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #5735
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I think its basically stock set up...bought it used with one day of use on it
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:35 PM   #5736
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I would double check the setup.

I have two good setups posted here.

http://www.casper-rc.com/

The latest one is more agressive on the steering dept and what we run now. We used this setup this past weekend on a smaller size track and both of our trucks were really good. (that being Ryan and I)

If the truck is used and you don't know the setup it would not be a bad idea to rebuild the shocks and the diffs just to know for sure what is in those.

Remember droop settings (now much you unscrew the bottom of the shocks) and ride height are important.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:48 PM   #5737
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Thanks Casper..
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:11 PM   #5738
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hey casper any suggestion for rough dusty low grip track set up? thx for helps
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:49 PM   #5739
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Servo suggestions.
Most common appear to be Savox and hitec.
I have a savox 1258tg currently. Within months, it does not turn nearly as sharp on carpet. Gears are fine. Torque burnout???
I hear good things about hitec.

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:51 PM   #5740
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Originally Posted by braderb View Post
Servo suggestions.
Most common appear to be Savox and hitec.
I have a savox 1258tg currently. Within months, it does not turn nearly as sharp on carpet. Gears are fine. Torque burnout???
I hear good things about hitec.

Thanks
Na, Spectrum S6040 is a great one and not power hungry
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:14 PM   #5741
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Originally Posted by braderb View Post
Servo suggestions.
Most common appear to be Savox and hitec.
I have a savox 1258tg currently. Within months, it does not turn nearly as sharp on carpet. Gears are fine. Torque burnout???
I hear good things about hitec.

Thanks
give it 7.4v with your RX8 gen2 and you will be happy.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:25 PM   #5742
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Originally Posted by braderb View Post
Servo suggestions.
Most common appear to be Savox and hitec.
I have a savox 1258tg currently. Within months, it does not turn nearly as sharp on carpet. Gears are fine. Torque burnout???
I hear good things about hitec.

Thanks
Did you check the servo saver?
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:25 AM   #5743
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Did you check the servo saver?
+1... if u haven't completely tightened then backed off 2-3 turns and loctited the screw that would be the first place to look
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:55 AM   #5744
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Can someone help me out here. Doing a rebuild for the first time on my truck. With regards to the steering turnbuckles.....the manual has you build the steering links with the outside rod end pivot flange up and the inside pivot flange up. I know at one point Ryan came on here and said run both flanges up or down...just cab't remember which one. Thanks in advance to anyone that can set me strait.
The angle of the steering link effects the bumpsteer, you can check this easily by watching the toe change when pushing the suspension up an down. I usually use a straight edge against the tires to help see the change in angle. In general if you move the inner camber link down you need to move the inner steering link pivot down as well or the outer link up to prevent bumpsteer. I totally disagree with using bump steer as a tuning option on any off road vehicle (and almost all on road) because it makes the car unpredictable every time the front suspension is compressed. I think way too many people just blindly use whatever their favorite setup sheet recommends. If you learn to measure it yourself you can easily set the bumpsteer on any vehicle
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #5745
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Originally Posted by dirtracin58 View Post
The angle of the steering link effects the bumpsteer, you can check this easily by watching the toe change when pushing the suspension up an down. I usually use a straight edge against the tires to help see the change in angle. In general if you move the inner camber link down you need to move the inner steering link pivot down as well or the outer link up to prevent bumpsteer. I totally disagree with using bump steer as a tuning option on any off road vehicle (and almost all on road) because it makes the car unpredictable every time the front suspension is compressed. I think way too many people just blindly use whatever their favorite setup sheet recommends. If you learn to measure it yourself you can easily set the bumpsteer on any vehicle
Speaking of this. On the setup sheet from Casper it says to use camber link position 1 but when I do this it interferes with the sway bar link. I try to move them out of the way a little but it just doesn't seem right.

Again thought like you said I never really did proper testing to know if 1 is what is best for me.
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