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Old 11-04-2013, 05:45 PM   #5566
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I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T

Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #5567
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Originally Posted by ctuinstra View Post
I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T

Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
I have used the same hardware in my 2.0 Leave the small shims out.
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #5568
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Believe it or not, most of the fast central Ohio guys have gone to a 2-pole setup, including the local pro, who whipps up on everyone. The 4300 HD seemed to have far too much power.

Since going to the Orion R10 Pro / Thunder Power Z3R-550 (4.5T) setup (the same setup many of the really fast guys use), I have DEcreased my lap times considerably, as it lays the power down in a more smooth fashion.
Thru the HW 4000 On the bench and went with the TP 550 can 4.0 and 1st thing I noticed is how well the truck felt while driving .like the balance just need ed that longer can in there.When I ran a 550 in the 1.0 you could feel the weight of the motor right away and it was bad( lol )doesn't seem to be the case here quite the opposite effect.And gobs of power, 13 tooth pinion th epa @80% expo @-45 and still full of piss and vinegar Small outdoor track under the lights, truck was flawless all night!!! T.Q. And the W.
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:38 AM   #5569
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Originally Posted by ctuinstra View Post
I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T

Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
The 2.0 comes with updated HD diff cases. That diff case came with a thicker gasket for better seal. We don't use the small washers with the HD diff case as well. You basically got a the "1.0" rebuild kit for the original diffs. Not bad just not "updated"
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:14 AM   #5570
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Has anyone installed the rx-box (TLR241004) from the 3.0E in this truck?

Just curious to know if the box takes out the right nerf-bar. Would be nice to have a rx-box for those wet race days...

Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #5571
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The 2.0 comes with updated HD diff cases. That diff case came with a thicker gasket for better seal. We don't use the small washers with the HD diff case as well. You basically got a the "1.0" rebuild kit for the original diffs. Not bad just not "updated"
What would be the correct part number for the 2.0 rebuild kits? I've just been buying new diff cups when they start to leak. It's only a few extra bucks for the whole thing but just seals is probably all that's needed.
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:25 PM   #5572
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Diff gears are same part number as what you bought. There was a running change but the part number stayed the same.
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:41 PM   #5573
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Originally Posted by aland View Post
Has anyone installed the rx-box (TLR241004) from the 3.0E in this truck?

Just curious to know if the box takes out the right nerf-bar. Would be nice to have a rx-box for those wet race days...

Thanks.

Buddy and me did it, If your willing to Loose the whole Side guard when running the box then you'll be fine, If you want to keep the Side guard you have to do some rather intensive dremeling. It can be done and still look pretty, Just takes some time and effort to do so.

Shoegoo on the seams to prevent Dirt from falling/Jamming under the tray.



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Old 11-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #5574
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So you are leaving out the shim behind the little cross pin then?!
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #5575
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Cool new truck. I still like my 2.0. It smokes almost everything at my local track.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:04 PM   #5576
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Buddy and me did it, If your willing to Loose the whole Side guard when running the box then you'll be fine, If you want to keep the Side guard you have to do some rather intensive dremeling. It can be done and still look pretty, Just takes some time and effort to do so.

Shoegoo on the seams to prevent Dirt from falling/Jamming under the tray.
Many thanks! Nice work!
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:25 AM   #5577
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Just finished tuning the truck up for racing tomorrow night. Fitted the new jconcepts hi flo and had to trim 3/8" out of the front fenders to get the suspension free movement. It's a nice heavy body but just doesn't fit right. I believe I will be sticking to the factory Losi body from here on out. It may be somewhat thin but mine has lasted better than I expected and fits without question.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:44 AM   #5578
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Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:29 AM   #5579
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Originally Posted by 87MagnumII View Post
Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub
You can either trim the turnbuckles down a couple mm or swap them with the steering ones which are shorter.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:36 AM   #5580
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Originally Posted by 87MagnumII View Post
Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub
We don't typically run that short a rear camber link. You would need shorter tierods to run that link position. Not uncommon to run into this type of problem running the longest or shortest camber link positions. You end up running out of adjustment in the lniks.
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