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Old 09-24-2013, 05:44 PM   #5296
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No drag brake. It dos spin out more to the right now that i think about it. but i do have a lot of right hand turns on my track. I didn't notice any bearings that where hanging. but i could inspect them better. My spur gear is a little loud. could this be causing enough drag to throw the Diff's off?
Not unless the pinion gear is tight against the spur. As long as the mesh is set right there shouldn't be a problem. I would go through the whole truck and check all the bearings. Make sure they are all smooth and quiet when spinning. I had a rear diff bearing go out in my 2.0 after 3 race days so anything is possible.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:00 PM   #5297
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No not the same the 231010 is for the 2.0 and is 80mm witch is longer than the 2426 that was in the 1.0 flex chassis. Both the front and rear 231010 on 2.0 chassis and the 2426 will only fit rear of 1.0 not 2.0.
This is for a SCTE 1.0 with the original BCE chassis. So it sounds like I can run this rod on the rear (LOSB2426), will the 231010 part number work on the front of a 1.0 or should I just run the rod that I have in the rear and go with something else in front?

BTW... anyone want a free torque rod for rear? Just pay shipping PN# LOSB2426
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:07 PM   #5298
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Not unless the pinion gear is tight against the spur. As long as the mesh is set right there shouldn't be a problem. I would go through the whole truck and check all the bearings. Make sure they are all smooth and quiet when spinning. I had a rear diff bearing go out in my 2.0 after 3 race days so anything is possible.
The mesh is set right. I guess ill have to just break the whole truck down and check all the bearings in hubs and diffs.. The only reason i didn't do it yet was because the truck had very little run time on it and everything looked good. Thanks for your input. Ill post back if i find anything out of the ordinary. thanks
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:45 PM   #5299
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The mesh is set right. I guess ill have to just break the whole truck down and check all the bearings in hubs and diffs.. The only reason i didn't do it yet was because the truck had very little run time on it and everything looked good. Thanks for your input. Ill post back if i find anything out of the ordinary. thanks
No prob let us know.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:46 PM   #5300
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This is for a SCTE 1.0 with the original BCE chassis. So it sounds like I can run this rod on the rear (LOSB2426), will the 231010 part number work on the front of a 1.0 or should I just run the rod that I have in the rear and go with something else in front?

BTW... anyone want a free torque rod for rear? Just pay shipping PN# LOSB2426
I would run the torque rod in the rear and stock front brace. Ran that on my BCE 1.0 and it was dialed.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:17 AM   #5301
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I was thinking about getting the MIP tweak board and trying it out. Has anyone tried it or do I need to keep measuring shocks, checking ride height, and leave it be. Does anyone use a tweak board on off road vehicles?
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:12 AM   #5302
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I was thinking about getting the MIP tweak board and trying it out. Has anyone tried it or do I need to keep measuring shocks, checking ride height, and leave it be. Does anyone use a tweak board on off road vehicles?
Tweak doesn't exist for off road vehicles. Er... maybe it does, but it's irrelevant

Tweak is more of a concern for double decker chassis braces you find on touring cars with really a rigid chassis. You could actually FEEL the chassis 'untweaking' when you loosened the screws holding the top brace on those things lol.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:48 AM   #5303
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That makes sense. I also understand that checking tweak is a good way to see if the chassis is bent or warped. Just wasnt sure if it was worth doing on a off road vehicle.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #5304
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No prob let us know.
So far the only thing i see is the rear diff is full of metal shavings.. Still feels smooth so i might be able to just add new fluid and be good. Both of the otter bearings on the diff feel a little rough also.. im replacing them now hopefully this will take care of the problem...
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:37 PM   #5305
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So far the only thing i see is the rear diff is full of metal shavings.. Still feels smooth so i might be able to just add new fluid and be good. Both of the otter bearings on the diff feel a little rough also.. im replacing them now hopefully this will take care of the problem...
Metal shavings or the fluid is discolored? If there are actual visible metal shavings then something is definitely wrong. I would replace the diff case and gears while you have it apart.
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:08 AM   #5306
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Metal shavings or the fluid is discolored? If there are actual visible metal shavings then something is definitely wrong. I would replace the diff case and gears while you have it apart.
The fluid color was pure silver. No metal chunks..
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:41 AM   #5307
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The fluid color was pure silver. No metal chunks..
OK cool. That's normal.
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:51 PM   #5308
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Default 17mm hex adaptors for Losi scte



Mitch from M2C RACING here.
I made this kit so you guys could run the buggy tires in the yard or where ever.
my question is that I need to know if this kit is what you guys need.
I have hear of guys using the larger axles from the 10-t .
If you want something else that will make it better. let me know as these have been
selling quite well all of a sudden.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:32 PM   #5309
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Mitch from M2C RACING here.
I made this kit so you guys could run the buggy tires in the yard or where ever.
my question is that I need to know if this kit is what you guys need.
I have hear of guys using the larger axles from the 10-t .
If you want something else that will make it better. let me know as these have been
selling quite well all of a sudden.
i'll take a set for free to try.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:33 PM   #5310
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I bought those adaptors two days ago. Just waiting for them to arrive.
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