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Old 09-15-2013, 09:13 PM   #5206
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Originally Posted by sanny632 View Post
Hey guys/Casper my center diff out drive seem to be sloppy. Well actually the front center drive shaft looks a bit bent and my truck had a horrible vibration. So I pulled the center diff and the out drive seem to move side to side


Well 24 hrs no ones suggestions so ill add details.
I had a 1.0 sold it because Its cheaper just to buy one of these. Rather than upgrade. Well I bought a used scte 2.0 that's in good shape the previous owner put the Tekno center drive shafts on ( are these better?) I noticed the front one has a slight bend. Well if I apply throttle it creates a horrible vibration. I started to follow it from the center drive to the center diff. The center diff out drives seem to be rather sloppy in how much they move. I noticed that the diff bearing mount to the plastic case. Unlike the eight 2.0 I have the diff out drive goes into the bearing. Has any one else noticed this?
Don't know about the tekno drive shafts, but I do know that the out drives are a bit sloppy on all the diffs. It's normal. Mine were sloppy from day 1. If your out drive appears sloppy because your bearing that supports the diff is shot, that's another story. I had a rear diff support bearing go out and melt the insert in the gear box. That made the slightly sloppy out drive appear very sloppy. I'd check the bearings on the center diff, straighten the center drive shaft, then see how it looks...
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:20 PM   #5207
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Tire balancing; is it worth it?
I balance mine. I have an old prop balancer and a roll of adhesive back lead tape from the golf shop. Is it worth it? IMO it is since it doesn't cost much in time or $. You might notice a little smoother look to the vehicle on the fast parts of the track.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:41 PM   #5208
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FYI guys if you are thinking about purchasing a BCE chassis Builtrc is currently offering them authorized by BCE!! them here is a link to the eBay store. If for some reason you prefer not to use eBay they can be purchased directly from Builtrc.com. He ships FAST!! Get one while they last as they will sell quickly!!

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=171124365522
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:11 PM   #5209
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I should have asked this a long time ago, but what exactly does it mean "full plus 2 turns" when referring to shock length? Does it mean thread the eyelets until threads aren't showing then OUT 2 turns or IN? I figured out but now thinking about it, it's probobly in.

I think I'm missing something with my setup (shock length or droop?). My truck appears to roll over or go up on two wheels easier than most trucks when going through high speed sweepers. These are also usually rutted turns around here. I basically run the stock setup with 26mm ride height. Any advice?

Where do the shims go on the rear to space it out 5mm, just under the wheel? Looks like the only place they could go?
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:14 AM   #5210
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
I think I'm missing something with my setup (shock length or droop?). My truck appears to roll over or go up on two wheels easier than most trucks when going through high speed sweepers. These are also usually rutted turns around here. I basically run the stock setup with 26mm ride height. Any advice?
I am no expert on setup, but had that problem whenever I went to new Calibers with too much grip. Dropping ride height to 24mm (front and back) solves it until the tyres wear and lose some traction, then I can go back up to 26mm. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:03 AM   #5211
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Originally Posted by kingofcool999 View Post
Don't know about the tekno drive shafts, but I do know that the out drives are a bit sloppy on all the diffs. It's normal. Mine were sloppy from day 1. If your out drive appears sloppy because your bearing that supports the diff is shot, that's another story. I had a rear diff support bearing go out and melt the insert in the gear box. That made the slightly sloppy out drive appear very sloppy. I'd check the bearings on the center diff, straighten the center drive shaft, then see how it looks...
Got it fixed... The bearing that holds the diff is good but I went to king headz (my lhs...lucky). His front and rear center diff mounts are amazing. Thanks Jim!!
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:08 AM   #5212
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
I should have asked this a long time ago, but what exactly does it mean "full plus 2 turns" when referring to shock length? Does it mean thread the eyelets until threads aren't showing then OUT 2 turns or IN? I figured out but now thinking about it, it's probobly in.

I think I'm missing something with my setup (shock length or droop?). My truck appears to roll over or go up on two wheels easier than most trucks when going through high speed sweepers. These are also usually rutted turns around here. I basically run the stock setup with 26mm ride height. Any advice?

Where do the shims go on the rear to space it out 5mm, just under the wheel? Looks like the only place they could go?
Screw the shock ends on as far as you can then back off 2 turns (full plus 2 turns) or one turn.

It's .5mm You have to buy a cluch shim kit and use 2 .25mm shims per side. They go between the outer hub bearing and the drive pin on the rear axles.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:08 AM   #5213
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Default Indoor/Carpet Setup Sheet

hey Casper - Ryan, you guys have a setup sheet for indoor/carpet for the 2.0? or could you point out some changes we could make to the current setup sheet.

thanks.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:19 AM   #5214
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I am no expert on setup, but had that problem whenever I went to new Calibers with too much grip.
That's a good point. I'm relatively new to offroad so my tires are newer. It seems to do it with any tire I try. I was running blockade fronts and holeshot rears. Worn blockades in front might be better. The track is difficult though in that there are some very tight "Z" 180 turns in the infield.

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Screw the shock ends on as far as you can then back off 2 turns (full plus 2 turns) or one turn.

It's .5mm You have to buy a cluch shim kit and use 2 .25mm shims per side. They go between the outer hub bearing and the drive pin on the rear axles.
Thanks. I knew they were .5, I just wasn't thinking lol. I got some .2 shims they will have to be close enough for now.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:03 AM   #5215
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post

Thanks. I knew they were .5, I just wasn't thinking lol. I got some .2 shims they will have to be close enough for now.
Kyosho sells a combo pack of shims, .1, .2, .3 for a couple of bucks. Buy a few. You'll use them somewhere.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #5216
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Can I get a part number for the shims used in the center dif and the alum dif inserts?

I just want the shims only.

The manual says LOSB3570, but when I search for that part number a spur gear comes?
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:56 PM   #5217
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Can I get a part number for the shims used in the center dif and the alum dif inserts?

I just want the shims only.

The manual says LOSB3570, but when I search for that part number a spur gear comes?
There is no part number for just the shims. They come in two parts, the spur gear for the nitro TEN series cars or the alum rear inserts.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:08 PM   #5218
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There is no part number for just the shims. They come in two parts, the spur gear for the nitro TEN series cars or the alum rear inserts.
Ok. Thanks. In that case, can you point me to a reasonable facsimile? Again, just for the shims.

Thank you.

Edit: I found these-kyosho #96646. Looks like they will work.

Last edited by ByronM; 09-19-2013 at 05:43 AM. Reason: Found part
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #5219
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Dunno if anyone posted this...

King Heads Upper Steering Plate
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #5220
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Dunno if anyone posted this...

King Heads Upper Steering Plate
I like it
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