R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-26-2013, 09:27 PM   #5071
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
they stopped selling to bashers and crashaholics.
Mine has been raced 2 times and is real bad.. if you roll the sc backwards the front wheels go positive 6 degrees real loose
1488rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 09:38 PM   #5072
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 300
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1488rider View Post
Mine has been raced 2 times and is real bad.. if you roll the sc backwards the front wheels go positive 6 degrees real loose
mine is 6 months old and I don't have anywhere close to that much play
hoonigantoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #5073
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonigantoo View Post
mine is 6 months old and I don't have anywhere close to that much play
its all in the steering rack
1488rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #5074
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,349
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1488rider View Post
its all in the steering rack
You might be missing the little bushings that the steering rack screws mount through, that would add a bunch of play.
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 10:44 PM   #5075
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
You might be missing the little bushings that the steering rack screws mount through, that would add a bunch of play.
it is where the Ackerman bar mounts
1488rider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 04:48 AM   #5076
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 51
Default

I was noticing how a friends was really loose in the front while mine was much tighter. A few races later, and mine is as loose as his. All the parts are there. The slop is mostly in the Ackerman, a little bit in each mount and it all adds up. I don't know if there is much one can do about it other than replace all the linkage parts together.
ctuinstra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 04:51 AM   #5077
Moderator
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,744
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

There's a lot of slop at that point. Someone should really make an aftermarket ball bearing supported Ackerman arm. I have the 1.0 with the original rod ends and balls and they slop out after a few runs. I ended up replacing mine with something different. I still have the slop in the Ackerman arm and the hinge pins and such in the front end. Slop isn't necessarily bad but the amount I saw in the 1.0 was pretty ridiculous compared to the other vehicles I have owned. No need to beat this guy up for wanting his truck to be as good as possible.
__________________
Current Racers: AE B6D, Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48.3
Full Throttle R/C Raceway www.ftrcr.com, Psycho Dog Racing Team, Team Holy Rollers - Greatest RC race team on the planet. Well, at least the team with the best sponsor.
Tekno RC
bds81175 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 07:01 AM   #5078
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Rochester,IN
Posts: 1,129
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Tyler's new 2.0 is that loose too and it hasn't been races yet. And the bushings are in it. It does go way toeed in if you pull it back wards. Made tought to get toe set on it. I just thought it was ours that was that way.
__________________
Randy
RandyJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 07:22 AM   #5079
Tech Elite
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post
Tyler's new 2.0 is that loose too and it hasn't been races yet. And the bushings are in it. It does go way toeed in if you pull it back wards. Made tought to get toe set on it. I just thought it was ours that was that way.
A - loose is fast. In general these trucks get better with some slop. I wouldn't worry about it.

B - check the pivot balls in the ball ends. I've run my truck hard since it came out in March and its only about ready for new pivot balls. I will only replace these when the ball is so worn it will not stay in the plastic rod end.
__________________
Your Product Name Here
Grandturk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #5080
Tech Regular
 
Purdue Engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 407
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
A - loose is fast. In general these trucks get better with some slop. I wouldn't worry about it.

B - check the pivot balls in the ball ends. I've run my truck hard since it came out in March and its only about ready for new pivot balls. I will only replace these when the ball is so worn it will not stay in the plastic rod end.
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
Purdue Engineer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 09:49 AM   #5081
Tech Elite
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
Definitely switch pivot balls and rod ends at the same time. You don't want to half ass it.
__________________
Your Product Name Here
Grandturk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 09:52 AM   #5082
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,659
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
The kit came with the upgrade balls.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB2187

You want to use these as they last a lot longer then the SCTE 1.0 stock balls did.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 10:08 AM   #5083
Tech Regular
 
Purdue Engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 407
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I totally understand but the old hard anodized balls fit tighter in the old plastic rod ends then the new plastic rodends.
Purdue Engineer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 10:22 AM   #5084
Tech Elite
 
Grandturk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,485
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
I totally understand but the old hard anodized balls fit tighter in the old plastic rod ends then the new plastic rodends.
I don't think there's a difference in the balls and ends. The ends are the same and the balls are the same as have been available from the 1.0

Edit - I meant the upgrade hard ano balls are the same

No?
__________________
Your Product Name Here
Grandturk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 01:20 PM   #5085
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,659
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I may be wrong as well but I don't believe the plastics were ever changed on the Ten series.
__________________
TLR/Losi Team Driver
TLR/Losi | Tekin | DE Racing | Spektrum | Exotek | JBRL | Kolor Koncepts | OC/RC |Sticky Kicks | Imagine It Graphics | Casper-RC.com
TLR 22 3.0, TLR 22SCT 2.0, TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR Ten-SCTE 3.0, Spektrum DX6R

WWW.CASPER-RC.COM TLR and Tekin setups
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:45 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net