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Old 08-04-2013, 09:12 AM   #4741
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
Its a boot. I run an hot bodies boot over the drive shaft end and i grease the pin up
Got a part no. on that boot?
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:17 AM   #4742
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Quote:
Flip your side guards. One has a relief cut in it so the motor mount fits right.
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:07 AM   #4743
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Default Bearing Issues

Bearing Issues

My rear gear box pinion bearing has gone out for the 2nd time. First set of bearings lasted about 10 races this last set only make it through 4 race days and some practice. Running a hobbywing 4700kv anyone else run this motor or a Tekin 4300HD having this problem. I never had this problem with my tekin 4600 or Schuur Speed 4800.

I have a set of Avids that I am going to install we'll see how long they last.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:37 PM   #4744
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Default What I should know?

Making the transition into SC. Any weak links to watch for? Do you install the shim behind the big gear inside the diffs or leave them out like we do on the 1/8 scales? Tyler is excited to give it a try.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:53 PM   #4745
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Looks like Dakotah Phend just wrapped up the the National Championship in 4x4 SCT with his SCTE2.0, congrats!
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #4746
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I did... I put most of it together last night. ordered the 2.0 braces. I heard the plastic ends are the weak link. The part number for them is the whole brace. Can I just buy the plastic ends to have as spares? If so what part number am I looking for? Is there a more heavy duty option for the plastic ends from a different company or perhaps off the 8th scale buggy? And yes I know to screw the set screw all the way into the plastic to make them last longer.
I've broken 2 of these ends on the rear brace already. They are definitely weak.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:08 PM   #4747
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I've broken 2 of these ends on the rear brace already. They are definitely weak.
Make sure you thread the set screw all the way into the plastic before you screw it into the alum strut. The plastic ends last longer this way.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #4748
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Default rear brace

.....

Last edited by miket3; 09-16-2013 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:08 PM   #4749
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there is a fix for this.

1- get a kings head long alum rear chassid brace for the 1.0 trk. You dremel or grind about 1/8" off the front and it bolts right in. Just trim a little and test fit.
Never break again.
pics?
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #4750
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When steering to the left, I cannot seem to get full throw. The steering knuckle is about a few millimeters away from getting to the caster block.

When I turn up my EPA higher, it appears the steering tie rod (for the servo) bumps up against the drag link -- not allowing the full throw. (Steering to the right does not cause this concern b/c the steering tie rod goes away from the drag link.)

Anyone else experience this issue?
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:56 PM   #4751
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I run a torque Rod on the Rear end on my 1.0 SCTE its not screwed in maybe not quite in all the way but i never broke the ends on them.

One other thing is to check the screw and nut that goes underneth the chassis it can get loose and could break the ends if you dont tighten it up so check it .
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:59 PM   #4752
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
When steering to the left, I cannot seem to get full throw. The steering knuckle is about a few millimeters away from getting to the caster block.

When I turn up my EPA higher, it appears the steering tie rod (for the servo) bumps up against the drag link -- not allowing the full throw. (Steering to the right does not cause this concern b/c the steering tie rod goes away from the drag link.)

Anyone else experience this issue?


Im willing to bet its the inside hole on the Losi servo arm that is causing it i couldnt get the steering tie rod to stop hitting againest the servo case . So i been using the Outside hole on the Losi horn no issues with that.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:09 PM   #4753
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Im willing to bet its the inside hole on the Losi servo arm that is causing it i couldnt get the steering tie rod to stop hitting againest the servo case . So i been using the Outside hole on the Losi horn no issues with that.
I don't think that's the issue -- the rod end is still going to be at the same location on the bellcrank. I've actually dremeled down the rod end a bit to get a little more clearance before it hits the drag link. But it still won't give me full throw to the left...

I really don't want to dremel down the drag link to allow more clearance (making it weaker).
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Last edited by skrichter; 08-04-2013 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:40 PM   #4754
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For those running big, outdoor, low-traction, dusty, dirt tracks, where are you liking your droop set? Are you setting with the droop screws or shocks? thanks for any advice
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:53 PM   #4755
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For those running big, outdoor, low-traction, dusty, dirt tracks, where are you liking your droop set? Are you setting with the droop screws or shocks? thanks for any advice
I am running full droop. the screws just barely touch at full extension. no limiting inside either.
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