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Old 07-18-2013, 06:54 PM   #4636
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Why do people put heat shrink tubing on the solder posts? They are intended to help cool the ESC
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #4637
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Why do people put heat shrink tubing on the solder posts? They are intended to help cool the ESC
I'm pretty sure if you thought about it you would figure it out.. That being said, now thinking about the cooling aspect it does make since. But I'll leave mine on to protect it from possible arching er wires touching it etc...
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:39 AM   #4638
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I've got a Viper VTX8 and a VST4.5XL on the way and am now finding out that the SCTE 2.0 is too heavy for that motor. Is there anyone here that has used that motor in their trucks?
I'll throw down w/a 550 4.5 in my SCTE any day.
I've been running a 4600pro4 in my 2.0 since I got it w/great results but w/the outdoor season being so damn hot this year I decided to drop in a Reedy 4.5 550 to save my lipo's and keep temps down. We were on a big track w/big air so i added 80 timing on my rx8 and geared up to a 15/41 so I could clear the huge triple. I have been very impressed w/a 4.5t in this truck for outdoor, Super smooth, cool temps, plenty of nut.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:45 AM   #4639
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Why do people put heat shrink tubing on the solder posts? They are intended to help cool the ESC
They put them on there to keep them from touching. If one post touches another while the car is running.......poof...flash....fire. Happened to me once.

That being said, the Tekin reps say not to do this.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:33 PM   #4640
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Just built up a 2.0 and trying to figure out these mud flaps. Do they serve any purpose at all on a racetrack? Seems like they make contact w the track after every jump.

Are people racing w these or just taking them off/not installing them?
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:35 PM   #4641
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Just built up a 2.0 and trying to figure out these mud flaps. Do they serve any purpose at all on a racetrack? Seems like they make contact w the track after every jump.

Are people racing w these or just taking them off/not installing them?
Take them off and cut the rear bumper so just the center circle is left. I don't use the side guard extenders either
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:55 PM   #4642
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Just built up a 2.0 and trying to figure out these mud flaps. Do they serve any purpose at all on a racetrack? Seems like they make contact w the track after every jump.

Are people racing w these or just taking them off/not installing them?
Im racing with them on, they look realistic
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:58 PM   #4643
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Im racing with them on, they look realistic
Keep a fresh one just for the Mains!!LOL.The bumper gets beat during practice!!Fresh body and mud flap bumper and beadlocks for the Amain only!!LOL..
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:51 PM   #4644
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Default Ryans New Setup

For the guys running Ryans new setup a couple questions:

1) rear hexes spaced out 0.5mm is that for each side and how are you spacing them out?
2) what are the witness marks on the front arms and steering links dremel accordingly?
3) any starting point for the droop measurements?
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:38 PM   #4645
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Default 0 insersts new set up

And for those, yes the kit was built with -0- inserts so no need to tear down the whole front end like i did
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:44 PM   #4646
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Do the MIP chassis braces fit the 2.0 in the stock holes?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:44 PM   #4647
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Originally Posted by fullpull View Post
I'm pretty sure if you thought about it you would figure it out.. That being said, now thinking about the cooling aspect it does make since. But I'll leave mine on to protect it from possible arching er wires touching it etc...
Yeah no. Not a brilliant idea, chief. If they ever get that close to arc in the first place, consider your ESC done for dinner..

It is NEVER a good idea to run heat shrink on your solder posts.
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:09 AM   #4648
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Originally Posted by Lablover View Post
For the guys running Ryans new setup a couple questions:

1) rear hexes spaced out 0.5mm is that for each side and how are you spacing them out?
2) what are the witness marks on the front arms and steering links dremel accordingly?
3) any starting point for the droop measurements?
1) Take clutch bell shims and put them behind the pin that the clamping hex goes over.
2) Witness marks will be where the wheel is rubbing the arm and steering link just grinf those areas down until you cannot see them. Also, if you haven't put the 2mm under the steering link on the outside, the squares from the diff make a nice 2mm spacer.
3)We do not use droop screw for this setup. You want to take the front shock ends go up until they stop and unsrew them 2 full turns. The rear do the same but only unscrew 1 turn.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #4649
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Originally Posted by ballnM3 View Post
Used one of the silver screws that came with the RX8 Gen2 and screwed through the hole in the switch and then in the battery stops. Seems like it will be a good spot for it and pretty secure. We shall see though...
You battery is all the way back? We don't normally run it there.

you can servo tape the swtich to the side of the ESC and this makes it easy to get to as well. With one screw holding it in place it will tend to spin.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:25 AM   #4650
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Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
Take them off and cut the rear bumper so just the center circle is left. I don't use the side guard extenders either
thanks!!
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