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Old 07-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #4471
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Default New setup for scte 2.0

Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.
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Official TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread-dunford_7_10_13.jpg  
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #4472
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.
Setup works great. You do not need to remove the front droop "pad/screws" with this setup. that is only needed if you run max front kickup. This setup goes back to 0/0 settings and the screws can be left in place. Since we are not using the droop screws it does not matter if they are there or not though so....
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:02 PM   #4473
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+1 on this. Is there a list anywhere of all the different wheel offsets on all 2wd and 4wd sct out there?
The associated wheels are +3mm offset
The SCTE wheels are 0mm offset to my knowledge.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:06 PM   #4474
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.
Is this setup better suited for a well groomed indoor clay track or is it a good starting point for a more universal application? I travel all over to race, primarily outdoors, and track conditions range from blue grooved to dusty and loose.

I suppose if I stayed at one track I could finally get this thing dialed in lol But the closest track that I run at doesn't run every weekend and I gotta get my racing fix

I normally run the stock setup and just adjust my driving style to whatever track conditions I encounter.

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:10 PM   #4475
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The associated wheels are +3mm offset
The SCTE wheels are 0mm offset to my knowledge.
No - the AE stock wheels are 0 offset or very close to 0. The aftermarket wheels are all +3 for the SC10 in order to bring the width out to maximum allowed.

I am not sure that the stock AE wheels will clear the SCTE steering assembly - they may rub.

I use SCTE/22SCT wheels for my Losi trucks and my SC10.2 as I have widened the hexes on my SC10.2 so I get the same max width without using the +3 wheels.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:11 PM   #4476
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Hay Ryan or Casper,
Have you guys try running the short ackerman bar? Just wondering what your thoughts are on that?
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:29 PM   #4477
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
No - the AE stock wheels are 0 offset or very close to 0. The aftermarket wheels are all +3 for the SC10 in order to bring the width out to maximum allowed.

I am not sure that the stock AE wheels will clear the SCTE steering assembly - they may rub.

I use SCTE/22SCT wheels for my Losi trucks and my SC10.2 as I have widened the hexes on my SC10.2 so I get the same max width without using the +3 wheels.
Thanks for clearing that up, I forgot to mention about stock AE vs. the aftermarket. I did the same thing(spaced the hexes) on my SC10 so I could run the same wheels.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:38 PM   #4478
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Hay Ryan or Casper,
Have you guys try running the short ackerman bar? Just wondering what your thoughts are on that?
I have tried it a few times and did not like it. I think Ryan tried it again with the bumpsteering changes and did not work for him as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JK47 View Post
Is this setup better suited for a well groomed indoor clay track or is it a good starting point for a more universal application? I travel all over to race, primarily outdoors, and track conditions range from blue grooved to dusty and loose.

I suppose if I stayed at one track I could finally get this thing dialed in lol But the closest track that I run at doesn't run every weekend and I gotta get my racing fix

I normally run the stock setup and just adjust my driving style to whatever track conditions I encounter.

Thanks in advance
The setup was developed at OCRC which is med to high bite indoor clay. We find that if we can get a good neutral setup there it translates well to many other conditions. Blue groove hot weather is were we find we change the setup some but other conditions these OCRC setups work well.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #4479
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Casper or Ryan - can you describe the differences between the new setup vs the last one? I've been running the last setup very successfully (with changes to the shocks - 32.5/30 read oil with 2 hole #55 pistons) - and the truck has been running very well for me.

Can you describe the "bump in" that you experienced with the previous setup?
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:12 PM   #4480
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Casper or Ryan - can you describe the differences between the new setup vs the last one? I've been running the last setup very successfully (with changes to the shocks - 32.5/30 read oil with 2 hole #55 pistons) - and the truck has been running very well for me.

Can you describe the "bump in" that you experienced with the previous setup?
Move the front arms up and down and you will see the toe change quite a bit with the current setup. the changes we made to the steering link take a lof of that toe change (or bumpsteer) out of the truck and makes it land more consistantly as the toe is not changing as much as the suspension compresses on landing. This was probably the biggest change with this setup and we were able to back off some of the other changes we made to add steering to the car with the previous setup.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:23 PM   #4481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.
1 deg Toe-in???? That's interesting....
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:46 PM   #4482
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Casper or Ryan - can you describe the differences between the new setup vs the last one? I've been running the last setup very successfully (with changes to the shocks - 32.5/30 read oil with 2 hole #55 pistons) - and the truck has been running very well for me.

Can you describe the "bump in" that you experienced with the previous setup?
Turk, The primary major issue with the steering on the SCTE is that when the tire travels up, it bumps IN, this is a big no no and makes for a vehicle that is inconsistent under braking and under landing. What these changes do (learning from the 8 3.0), help us be able to get the car to land better, steer in and out of a turn, and brake better. Overall, the car is more consistent. The reason we lowered the amount of front kick is to get more turn in, now that we could go to some toe in, to get the steering out of the turn for a more balanced steering and vehicle.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:12 PM   #4483
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Turk, The primary major issue with the steering on the SCTE is that when the tire travels up, it bumps IN, this is a big no no and makes for a vehicle that is inconsistent under braking and under landing. What these changes do (learning from the 8 3.0), help us be able to get the car to land better, steer in and out of a turn, and brake better. Overall, the car is more consistent. The reason we lowered the amount of front kick is to get more turn in, now that we could go to some toe in, to get the steering out of the turn for a more balanced steering and vehicle.



So thats why SCTE dont turn well at least in the pretty tight turns on indoor tracks Outdoor tracks its fine turns good with the 1.0 its the kickup and bumpsteer on the 2.0 also ? Everytime i adjusted the Front Toe with the eye look its always off on one side so i dont bother with it.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:33 PM   #4484
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Just for clarification, you are running the inside ball down, but how are you running the outer ball at the wheel. Up or down with the additional shim?
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:42 PM   #4485
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Move the front arms up and down and you will see the toe change quite a bit with the current setup. the changes we made to the steering link take a lof of that toe change (or bumpsteer) out of the truck and makes it land more consistantly as the toe is not changing as much as the suspension compresses on landing. This was probably the biggest change with this setup and we were able to back off some of the other changes we made to add steering to the car with the previous setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Turk, The primary major issue with the steering on the SCTE is that when the tire travels up, it bumps IN, this is a big no no and makes for a vehicle that is inconsistent under braking and under landing. What these changes do (learning from the 8 3.0), help us be able to get the car to land better, steer in and out of a turn, and brake better. Overall, the car is more consistent. The reason we lowered the amount of front kick is to get more turn in, now that we could go to some toe in, to get the steering out of the turn for a more balanced steering and vehicle.
Thanks guys. I see this as a pretty interesting change. I'd like to play around with it. I thought the extra kick in the front helped my truck out in blown out sections - I literally went from babying the truck through the blown out sections to complete confidence pulling the trigger and driving it through.

So I'll be interested in the change there. And I can't imagine the steering being so aggressive that toe in works.

Now - I didn't like the 4 piston setup the last time and went back to the 2 hole with harder oil. It's summer so I'm 95% of the time on big loose 1/8 rutted up tracks. I'm happy to try out the 4 holes again - where do you think the 4 hole pistons and lighter oil have an advantage over the 2 hole pistons.

Thanks guys - appreciate all you do for us. Like I said your latest setup has really helped dial my truck in.
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