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Old 06-11-2013, 01:52 PM   #4141
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Originally Posted by minisloth View Post
Hello,

Very new to the forums so I have tried to search for this prior to posting so if I have missed someone else already talking about this I apologize in advance of getting flamed.

I just finished the kit build and it went well but I am now putting an engine in this beast and have been purchased the Castle Mamba Monster 2.0 1/8th Scale 2650kv. Then I can use it for both racing by adjusting the 16T pinion gear up to a 20T and use a 2s or 3s lipo depending on racing or out bashing around.

However I am getting conflicting information if this setup would end up tearing apart the truck. Some say the SCTE 2.0 is overbuilt and will easily handle that setup even up to a 4s Lipo on it. Others say the 3s will cause damage by being just too much torque from that motor. So I thought I would ask the opinions of those here.

I don't have alot of other options for motors and I already own this one and can not return it now. However I don't want to destroy this nice build either.

Anyways thats my question would love to know peoples opinions and Thanks in advance.

-Minis
That motor might not fit because of the side guards. My Tekin 3500 HD barely clears the mud guards with a 16T pinion. I ran a T8 1900 on 4s for a few months on the 1.0 (same drive train) and I noticed the pins in the cvds wear much faster. I also ran the T8 2650 on 2s for a year or so and never had a drive train failure. The SCTE was not built for 1/8 power...
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:46 PM   #4142
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Hey guys, just ordered some "titanium" lunsford turnbuckles, and the tlr "titanium" screws, and kingpins for my 2.0, Does anyone know how much weight this will save me? I had a few extra bucks burning a hole in my pocket! Lol. I recently got some of the 100c protek 7000mah batts. They make wicked power! But they are slightly heavier then my old packs.. Just trying to offset the added weight.Thanks.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:24 PM   #4143
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Originally Posted by Cackswayn View Post
That motor might not fit because of the side guards. My Tekin 3500 HD barely clears the mud guards with a 16T pinion. I ran a T8 1900 on 4s for a few months on the 1.0 (same drive train) and I noticed the pins in the cvds wear much faster. I also ran the T8 2650 on 2s for a year or so and never had a drive train failure. The SCTE was not built for 1/8 power...
The side guard needs just the top edge sanded down just a little bit, but not much at all. I could likely get away with not even doing that but I would like a little bit of clearance.

I figure I will give it a shot with this motor based on your response and another one saying it would be no problem.

Thanks for all the information I will let you know how it runs when its done on Wednesday.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:45 PM   #4144
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hey guys new to 4x4 trucks. just bought a tlr scte 2.0. i bought an orion pro 10 esc 160 amp. will this esc work? for the motor i bought a new Tekin Pro4 HD 4-Pole Brushless 550 Motor w/5mm Shaft (4,300kV). I was told i should of bought an rx8 esc.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #4145
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hey guys new to 4x4 trucks. just bought a tlr scte 2.0. i bought an orion pro 10 esc 160 amp. will this esc work?
Yes just download the 4 pole software to make it live.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:11 PM   #4146
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Hey guys, just built my 2.0 and I notice I have a slight bind in the front diff. Its free 3/4 of a turn then binds the rest of the way turning the front drive shaft. I took it back apart and it turns free in the housing but once I put it back together complete it does they same thing... Even tried loosening the screws a tad. Still the same. Anyone else have this problem...
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #4147
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Quote:
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Yes just download the 4 pole software to make it live.
Ok thanks! do you know if i will have heat issues?
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #4148
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The ring gear is rubbing the inside of the case. Use a Dremal and clearance it.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:27 PM   #4149
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Thx Purdue E will give it a try..
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:33 PM   #4150
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:16 PM   #4151
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Originally Posted by urluzn View Post
Hey guys, just built my 2.0 and I notice I have a slight bind in the front diff. Its free 3/4 of a turn then binds the rest of the way turning the front drive shaft. I took it back apart and it turns free in the housing but once I put it back together complete it does they same thing... Even tried loosening the screws a tad. Still the same. Anyone else have this problem...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
The ring gear is rubbing the inside of the case. Use a Dremal and clearance it.
Same thing happened to me. If you pull the housing apart and dont see ring gear rubbing marks in housing try this.

The instructions tell you to build the diff install into diff housing then install drive shaft. When you do this some times it will push the pinion shaft in and cause a bad gear mesh between pinion and ring gear.
Install the pinion gear and hold it down with finger while you install drive shaft, then put diff into housing and finish building diff assembly, this will not allow pinion shaft to move in and out causing bad gear mesh in diff housing during accelaration and braking causing some of the tooth breakage some people are having.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:30 PM   #4152
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... causing some of the tooth breakage some people are having.
Not to mention prematurely blown out bearings.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #4153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urluzn View Post
Hey guys, just built my 2.0 and I notice I have a slight bind in the front diff. Its free 3/4 of a turn then binds the rest of the way turning the front drive shaft. I took it back apart and it turns free in the housing but once I put it back together complete it does they same thing... Even tried loosening the screws a tad. Still the same. Anyone else have this problem...
It will be fine after first run. I had the same problem.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:43 PM   #4154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urluzn View Post
Hey guys, just built my 2.0 and I notice I have a slight bind in the front diff. Its free 3/4 of a turn then binds the rest of the way turning the front drive shaft. I took it back apart and it turns free in the housing but once I put it back together complete it does they same thing... Even tried loosening the screws a tad. Still the same. Anyone else have this problem...
First Post Woo Hoo..

I had the same issue. I finally figured out that the bearings weren't pressed onto the case tightly enough. I used a large pair of channel locks, carefully, to snug them up by pressing around each side a little at a time until they were completely snug.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #4155
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All great suggestions, Thanks!! Will tear it down and take a look again.
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