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Old 06-06-2013, 05:30 PM   #4081
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Thanks Casper, so for what I have now about all I need is a chassis and towers?
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Well actually you need chassis, side guards, servo mount, battery tray, front and rear torque rods, Chassis foam pads for the battery. It is a combo of it all as most of the 1.0 center chassis stuff does not fit on the 2.0 chassis.
basically if you take off the front and rear clips, add the shock towers to them, and slap them on the 2.0 chassis....you will need everything else on the chassis other than the 2 center driveshafts as those are swapped front to rear. You dont really need a new diff, diff mount, or motor mount but the top plate for the diff is new

SCTE 1.0 to 2.0 Conversion parts list
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:47 PM   #4082
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Starting a new build. Any tips??
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:12 PM   #4083
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Got the 2.0 out Sat nite for the 2nd time and really starting to get a feel for it!!
Unfortunately right before the second qual while revving the motor prior to setting her on the track a clicking sound emerged from the rear diff but I ran anyway. It seemed to stay together :lol :By the main it was loud enough that every one at the track knew something was wrong. I was gonna run her anyway since I was sitting at the TQ spot.
I made to the end took the win but kinda had to limp it around.Finaly dug into the rear diff to see the problem and the ring gear was missing about 4 teeth!!She finished both races and put me on the podium
Cost of new ring and pinion $21.00 finishing first with a battered 2.0 =Priceless.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:13 PM   #4084
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Starting a new build. Any tips??
Get some good tools (especially a 1/16 for the diffs)

Take you time.

Read this.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:28 PM   #4085
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Got the 2.0 out Sat nite for the 2nd time and really starting to get a feel for it!!
Unfortunately right before the second qual while revving the motor prior to setting her on the track a clicking sound emerged from the rear diff but I ran anyway. It seemed to stay together :lol :By the main it was loud enough that every one at the track knew something was wrong. I was gonna run her anyway since I was sitting at the TQ spot.
I made to the end took the win but kinda had to limp it around.Finaly dug into the rear diff to see the problem and the ring gear was missing about 4 teeth!!She finished both races and put me on the podium
Cost of new ring and pinion $21.00 finishing first with a battered 2.0 =Priceless.

Revving a brushless engine in the air is hard on everything...just saying.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:39 PM   #4086
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Revving a brushless engine in the air is hard on everything...just saying.
Im talking about a quick 1/2 throttle blip before she hits the track to make sure all is good and I have throttle at all. Just as with the steering will get a quick check as well. Most peeps who race do this. Im not standing there holding full pin and checking things out. LoL
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:59 PM   #4087
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Good deal! I have seen lots internals of brushless motors and drivetrain problems because of NO load conditions in my 25+ years of R/C racin..anyways,I was just makin a friendly suggestion..it all good for me...
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:51 AM   #4088
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looks like everyone is digging their 2.0

I might have to move on up :-)

Are most dudes running the Tekin pro4/rx8 set up with the 2.0 ???
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:36 AM   #4089
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Get some good tools (especially a 1/16 for the diffs)

Take you time.

Read this.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html
Thanks. That's perfect.

I have built many rc's and a good set of tools is priceless I agree.

Are you guys running the 540 pro4 or the HD 550 can?
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:18 AM   #4090
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Im talking about a quick 1/2 throttle blip before she hits the track to make sure all is good and I have throttle at all. Just as with the steering will get a quick check as well. Most peeps who race do this. Im not standing there holding full pin and checking things out. LoL
The throttle isn't too bad as long as you aren't holding it wide open for a long time. Its the people that have their brake at 100% still for some odd reason and rev it way up and then jam on the brakes...that's what causes heat and most damage, lol.
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:25 AM   #4091
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.....
I made to the end took the win but kinda had to limp it around.Finaly dug into the rear diff to see the problem and the ring gear was missing about 4 teeth!!She finished both races and put me on the podium
Cost of new ring and pinion $21.00 finishing first with a battered 2.0 =Priceless.
What can cause that to happen?
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:13 AM   #4092
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Poor shimming of the diff, pinion gear backing out from the ring gear on the diff,
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:17 AM   #4093
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Is anyone really shimming the ring and pinion? I put mine together like the manual shows and there are no shims in the front or back cases. The only shim, I believe is in the center diff on the motor side I think. I guess the only variable in these is if the center drive shaft is not pushed all the way on the pinion with the pinion being pushed all the way up to the bearing on the inside of the case.
Maybe Hacker or casper can let us know how they shim there's. I'm going to guess it's by the book.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:22 AM   #4094
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Ive ran this truck for a long time never had to shim the diffs at all no issues my guess is because your only running on a 2s . Now if you never check the bearings inside the gear box than i can see the diffs stripping if you have a gritty bearing or just bad.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:47 AM   #4095
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Is anyone really shimming the ring and pinion? I put mine together like the manual shows and there are no shims in the front or back cases. The only shim, I believe is in the center diff on the motor side I think. I guess the only variable in these is if the center drive shaft is not pushed all the way on the pinion with the pinion being pushed all the way up to the bearing on the inside of the case.
Maybe Hacker or casper can let us know how they shim there's. I'm going to guess it's by the book.
I have seen some diff cases that wear out or are exposed to extreme conditions need to be shimmed from time to time. It is only the rear diff that I have seen this with due to the motors we are running these days and the extreme torque. I do have mine shimmed as the aluminum rear bearing holders come with shims but it will be different for each vehicle.
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