TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#3766
Tech Initiate
What is the required number of posts before being allowed to post images from photo hosting sites? When I reach it I'll post a pictures of the diff screws we used in the build.
#3767
Hay guys,
What Deg. are the front spindle carriers?
I see for the 22 and the 1/8 scale buggies they offer different deg. spindles, but not for the SCTE 2.0. What does changing the spindle degree do to the front of the truck? Can I accomplish the same thing just by changing the front kick up?
I like trying different adjustments on my truck and that is one I haven't tried yet. I just want to find out what everyone else has felt when making a change like that.
Thanks guys.
What Deg. are the front spindle carriers?
I see for the 22 and the 1/8 scale buggies they offer different deg. spindles, but not for the SCTE 2.0. What does changing the spindle degree do to the front of the truck? Can I accomplish the same thing just by changing the front kick up?
I like trying different adjustments on my truck and that is one I haven't tried yet. I just want to find out what everyone else has felt when making a change like that.
Thanks guys.
#3768
Tech Initiate
Setup change with a 550 2-pole?
All this might have been asked, but I can't find it. Anyway I would like to build my 2.0 with a 2 pole 550 motor. Casper/Hacker is setup change necessary when not using a 4 pole motor? Thanks
#3769
The main thing is that if you are using a longer 550 can motor, you will likely want to move the battery to the forward position.
#3770
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I picked up a brand new Castle Monster 2 last night! Cant wait to wire this beast in my SCTE! I sold my sidewinder 3 kit out of my SCB to pick this up. Later today, I am picking up a Reedy 5500mah battery to put in this too!
I was given a coupon for a free Castle USB cable to tune the motor as well! I can either get the free cable or get the field programmer for $10. I opted for the programmer! Cant wait to get it!
I was given a coupon for a free Castle USB cable to tune the motor as well! I can either get the free cable or get the field programmer for $10. I opted for the programmer! Cant wait to get it!
Last edited by JetBlast; 05-13-2013 at 08:49 AM.
#3771
Tech Initiate
We don't race but will probably try it within a year. We run mostly on short grass with lots of patches of bare earth. What sized motor would people recommend if we are mostly bashing (but with an eye on racing).
#3772
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Can anyone advise exactly what parts to order if I go down the route of an RX8 Gen2 with a Tekin Pro4 HD 550 motor? What extras will I need e.g sensor wires for the 2.0 layout, programmer etc?
We don't race but will probably try it within a year. We run mostly on short grass with lots of patches of bare earth. What sized motor would people recommend if we are mostly bashing (but with an eye on racing).
We don't race but will probably try it within a year. We run mostly on short grass with lots of patches of bare earth. What sized motor would people recommend if we are mostly bashing (but with an eye on racing).
Get connectors for the batteries you are using to add to the ESC.
I would go with the 4300KV. For bashing you really can't have too much power adn when you choose to go racing you can detune it if need be.
#3773
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Do the RX8's come with enough wire length to cross over from the ESC to the motor? I almost bought the RX8 last night. I saw that there was some wire in the box but I dont know how long the wires were.
Unfortunately, my Monster 2 didnt come with extra wire so I will need to pick some up to finish the build.
Unfortunately, my Monster 2 didnt come with extra wire so I will need to pick some up to finish the build.
#3774
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Do the RX8's come with enough wire length to cross over from the ESC to the motor? I almost bought the RX8 last night. I saw that there was some wire in the box but I dont know how long the wires were.
Unfortunately, my Monster 2 didnt come with extra wire so I will need to pick some up to finish the build.
Unfortunately, my Monster 2 didnt come with extra wire so I will need to pick some up to finish the build.
#3775
Hay guys,
What Deg. are the front spindle carriers?
I see for the 22 and the 1/8 scale buggies they offer different deg. spindles, but not for the SCTE 2.0. What does changing the spindle degree do to the front of the truck? Can I accomplish the same thing just by changing the front kick up?
I like trying different adjustments on my truck and that is one I haven't tried yet. I just want to find out what everyone else has felt when making a change like that.
Thanks guys.
What Deg. are the front spindle carriers?
I see for the 22 and the 1/8 scale buggies they offer different deg. spindles, but not for the SCTE 2.0. What does changing the spindle degree do to the front of the truck? Can I accomplish the same thing just by changing the front kick up?
I like trying different adjustments on my truck and that is one I haven't tried yet. I just want to find out what everyone else has felt when making a change like that.
Thanks guys.
Hacker/Casper do you guys have any thoughts on this.
Thanks
#3776
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
You can ajust the caster with the front adjustable blocks but you change the kick up at the same time. At this point I don't think there are any plans to offere additional caster blocks for the Ten series but I would not leave it out of the question that something might happen in this area as you never know. I know Ryan is always looking for ways to improve the truck. These are pretty expensive parts to mold or machine though so....
#3777
Thanks I'm looking for some ideas on what to change to make my truck a little better. I ran this past weekend and took 6th out of 17 trucks. The problem I was having was middle to exit of corner. Getting into the corner and going under another truck was great, but when I got to the center the truck was tight and pushed. I had to tap the brakes in the middle to get the truck to rotate. I think that was slowing me down. I would get on the brakes going in and then try to just squeeze the throttle in the middle but I couldn't do it with out taping the brakes to get the truck to rotate. Any thought on what the best change would be to make my corner speed faster. My set up is something like this:
Shocks: front #3 with 27.5 and black springs
rear #5 with 27.5 and orange
Front camber hole 2
Rear camber holes 3-B
ride height 27mm front and back
Diffs 5-5-3
Shocks: front #3 with 27.5 and black springs
rear #5 with 27.5 and orange
Front camber hole 2
Rear camber holes 3-B
ride height 27mm front and back
Diffs 5-5-3
#3778
Tech Initiate
I would look into the hotwire so you can program the ESC easier as well as update it as new software comes out. this is one of the great features of the Tekin. The RS and RX8 line is quite old by current ESC standards but they stayed very relevent through software updates. The Gen 2 line is the first hardware update in YEARS so I would expect the same longevtiy of the Gen 2 line with software updates to keep the ESC on the cutting edge for years to come. I would get along Sensor wire (around 270mm).. I would get some extra wire as well as there should be plenty to wire up the motor but may not be enough left over for the battery connections.
Get connectors for the batteries you are using to add to the ESC.
I would go with the 4300KV. For bashing you really can't have too much power adn when you choose to go racing you can detune it if need be.
Get connectors for the batteries you are using to add to the ESC.
I would go with the 4300KV. For bashing you really can't have too much power adn when you choose to go racing you can detune it if need be.
#3779
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Thanks I'm looking for some ideas on what to change to make my truck a little better. I ran this past weekend and took 6th out of 17 trucks. The problem I was having was middle to exit of corner. Getting into the corner and going under another truck was great, but when I got to the center the truck was tight and pushed. I had to tap the brakes in the middle to get the truck to rotate. I think that was slowing me down. I would get on the brakes going in and then try to just squeeze the throttle in the middle but I couldn't do it with out taping the brakes to get the truck to rotate. Any thought on what the best change would be to make my corner speed faster. My set up is something like this:
Shocks: front #3 with 27.5 and black springs
rear #5 with 27.5 and orange
Front camber hole 2
Rear camber holes 3-B
ride height 27mm front and back
Diffs 5-5-3
Shocks: front #3 with 27.5 and black springs
rear #5 with 27.5 and orange
Front camber hole 2
Rear camber holes 3-B
ride height 27mm front and back
Diffs 5-5-3
#3780
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
These trucks pull a TON of amps so a good battery is important. I personally run the Venom 5800 70C for racing. You can't expect much more then 10 min out of those though depending on your coniditons and how hard you are driving the car. But these batteries have performed flawless and I run my cars hard in racing. Everything else I have put in this truck has puffed by now so I am really happy with my Venom packs. If you are looking for more runtime then that Protek is making some pretty good batteries now. They have a 7000 mah 2S pack that is pretty impressive but it uses a larger then standard 5mm bullet plugs so you need to wire your car and charger for those which is well inconvient unless this is the only battery you are running.
Look for something with pretty high Mah (over 5000) and a good "C" rating 40 as a minimum and I would strongly consider 60+. Like I said these trucks are power hungery and will beat up inferior cells.