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Old 04-21-2013, 07:30 PM   #3466
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Thanks. On the rod the marks should be all facing the left,if your sittin in the drivers seat of a normal full size car?
It does not matter which side they are on, as long as they all are on the same side.
This makes it easier when adjusting them independently, because if you turn one upwards, you get the same direction of travel on all of them...

That sounds confusing in print, hope it helps.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:35 PM   #3467
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Originally Posted by CanadianNascar View Post
It does not matter which side they are on, as long as they all are on the same side.
This makes it easier when adjusting them independently, because if you turn one upwards, you get the same direction of travel on all of them...

That sounds confusing in print, hope it helps.
haha, i still think you said it better....lol
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:36 AM   #3468
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I am having extreme looseness in the rear of my truck, which means i need more rear traction. I was running the same setup as the dunford standard setup minus having stock pistons and 27.5 oils all around. What are some changes I can make?

I tried a longer rear camberlink by moving it inner lower on the rear, move the hubs forward so that one spacer was front and 3 behind. moved the battery back. moved the shocks in one on the tower in the rear. Nothing worked loose loose loose mainly on mid to exit of the turns. And i have a buddy who has had the same issues and couldnt figure it out either. Would it be smart to add some weight to the rear? So far on it outdoor track the car wont be driveable. On indoor tacky clay track the car is awesome. And i had the right tires on as the number 1 and 2 drivers were using the same thing.
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:50 AM   #3469
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
I am having extreme looseness in the rear of my truck, which means i need more rear traction. I was running the same setup as the dunford standard setup minus having stock pistons and 27.5 oils all around. What are some changes I can make?

I tried a longer rear camberlink by moving it inner lower on the rear, move the hubs forward so that one spacer was front and 3 behind. moved the battery back. moved the shocks in one on the tower in the rear. Nothing worked loose loose loose mainly on mid to exit of the turns. And i have a buddy who has had the same issues and couldnt figure it out either. Would it be smart to add some weight to the rear? So far on it outdoor track the car wont be driveable. On indoor tacky clay track the car is awesome. And i had the right tires on as the number 1 and 2 drivers were using the same thing.
I had the same issue. The things I did were went to 7 7 5 diff oil, moved the front camber link in and up on the shock tower and took some droop out. I will not run till tuesday to see if it works but thats what I did.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:16 AM   #3470
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try adding more rear toe in.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:16 AM   #3471
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try adding more rear toe in.
I will give that a try.....i need something that will be stable on loose, blown out conditions, if someone has any outdoor track time, please let me know your setup.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:45 AM   #3472
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I will give that a try.....i need something that will be stable on loose, blown out conditions, if someone has any outdoor track time, please let me know your setup.
Just ran the Casper setup outside yesterday. Works great.

Let me ask you this - when you get on the throttle, does the car squat a lot? Do the front tires balloon more than the rears going down the straight? If you're running 27.5 front and rear, you may actually be having too much weight transfer. What this is doing is pulling all the weight off the front tires. This will end up making the car very twitchy under acceleration. Try leaving your setup as is and going to a heavier oil in the front. Try 30 front 27.5 rear
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:59 AM   #3473
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Just ran the Casper setup outside yesterday. Works great.

Let me ask you this - when you get on the throttle, does the car squat a lot? Do the front tires balloon more than the rears going down the straight? If you're running 27.5 front and rear, you may actually be having too much weight transfer. What this is doing is pulling all the weight off the front tires. This will end up making the car very twitchy under acceleration. Try leaving your setup as is and going to a heavier oil in the front. Try 30 front 27.5 rear
Yes i have have 27.5 front and rear with the 3 pistons front and 4 pistons rear. And i think it is squating in the rear alot during acceleration almost to the point where if i didnt get on it right going down the straight it would want to spin out mid straight. i will try 30 in the front. Would you suggest 2 on antisquat as well?
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:15 AM   #3474
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Yes i have have 27.5 front and rear with the 3 pistons front and 4 pistons rear. And i think it is squating in the rear alot during acceleration almost to the point where if i didnt get on it right going down the straight it would want to spin out mid straight. i will try 30 in the front. Would you suggest 2 on antisquat as well?
I run anti-squat 3 as per Casper/Dunford setup. 2 was stock on the 1.0. You want weight to stay on the front end as these are drive wheels and keep the truck tracking straight. I struggled with just this same problem all last summer.

I would set the anti-squat at 3 and go to a 32.5/30 or 30/27.5 setup depending on the track.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:18 AM   #3475
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
I am having extreme looseness in the rear of my truck, which means i need more rear traction. I was running the same setup as the dunford standard setup minus having stock pistons and 27.5 oils all around. What are some changes I can make?

I tried a longer rear camberlink by moving it inner lower on the rear, move the hubs forward so that one spacer was front and 3 behind. moved the battery back. moved the shocks in one on the tower in the rear. Nothing worked loose loose loose mainly on mid to exit of the turns. And i have a buddy who has had the same issues and couldnt figure it out either. Would it be smart to add some weight to the rear? So far on it outdoor track the car wont be driveable. On indoor tacky clay track the car is awesome. And i had the right tires on as the number 1 and 2 drivers were using the same thing.

Are you sure you have the right tires on? First thing I would do is make sure you have the right tires, look at the fastest drivers and see what they have, make sure they have a similar driving style. If that doesn't help you can change rear camber positions on the tower (move it down if you need side bite, move it up if you need straight line traction) not 100% sure from your description. Start there then make more or bigger changes. typically traction is tires first.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:31 AM   #3476
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Are you sure you have the right tires on? First thing I would do is make sure you have the right tires, look at the fastest drivers and see what they have, make sure they have a similar driving style. If that doesn't help you can change rear camber positions on the tower (move it down if you need side bite, move it up if you need straight line traction) not 100% sure from your description. Start there then make more or bigger changes. typically traction is tires first.
100% positive down to the foam and compound, first and 2nd place had the same tires. keep in mind i was the 3rd fastest truck lol!
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:56 AM   #3477
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
I run anti-squat 3 as per Casper/Dunford setup. 2 was stock on the 1.0. You want weight to stay on the front end as these are drive wheels and keep the truck tracking straight. I struggled with just this same problem all last summer.

I would set the anti-squat at 3 and go to a 32.5/30 or 30/27.5 setup depending on the track.
would the 2 hole 1.3mm pistons make a bit of difference too?
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:05 AM   #3478
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After driving yesterday I noticed the positive female connector in my battery comes out (2mmor so). Is this a sign of lipo puffing or just a bad connector ?
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:16 AM   #3479
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
I am having extreme looseness in the rear of my truck, which means i need more rear traction. I was running the same setup as the dunford standard setup minus having stock pistons and 27.5 oils all around. What are some changes I can make?

I tried a longer rear camberlink by moving it inner lower on the rear, move the hubs forward so that one spacer was front and 3 behind. moved the battery back. moved the shocks in one on the tower in the rear. Nothing worked loose loose loose mainly on mid to exit of the turns. And i have a buddy who has had the same issues and couldnt figure it out either. Would it be smart to add some weight to the rear? So far on it outdoor track the car wont be driveable. On indoor tacky clay track the car is awesome. And i had the right tires on as the number 1 and 2 drivers were using the same thing.
Some thing to try are moving the rear hubs all the way back, go to more rear toe in, small changes at a time, so use the .5 out in the rear outer hinge pin brace, thicker rear diff oil.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:19 AM   #3480
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Originally Posted by maddog9 View Post
would the 2 hole 1.3mm pistons make a bit of difference too?
It shouldn't really as they have a bigger effect on high speed damping.

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After driving yesterday I noticed the positive female connector in my battery comes out (2mmor so). Is this a sign of lipo puffing or just a bad connector ?
Nah, the tubes often pull out a little from the case. It's ok
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