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Old 03-29-2013, 10:12 AM   #2701
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I kinda want something to attach the transponder too to clean up the looks also I like adding stuff haha
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:15 AM   #2702
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Its really the rod ends that can sometimes break and really that only happens if the setscrews are not first screwed into the plastic all the way which leaves abotu 7mm to threadlock into the metal tube then. And those ends are the same as LOSA6044.
Thanks Ryan, I remember you mentioning that before and did just that in my 2.0 build. You're right not a lot thread left for the rod I found one issue besides the shock caps and that was on a new HD diff case wasn't milled out for the o-ring. Surprised me, but not a big deal as I had plenty of spares. I will call it in to HH. I'll post a pic later tonight. I had to postpone my build until tonight as I'm getting a couple new parts that I wanted to integrate into it. Should be up and running this weekend. Did you get down to SDRC last weekend. If so, how was it and sorry I missed you guys. Next time for sure!
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #2703
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I'm using the KH motor mount and center diff brace for my 2.0. I'm also using the Tekno drive-shafts all around. I was thinking about the telemetry mount as well, but I'm a bit undecided if I want to invest in all of the required hardware. I do like the option however.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:32 AM   #2704
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Thanks Ryan, I remember you mentioning that before and did just that in my 2.0 build. You're right not a lot thread left for the rod I found one issue besides the shock caps and that was on a new HD diff case wasn't milled out for the o-ring. Surprised me, but not a big deal as I had plenty of spares. I will call it in to HH. I'll post a pic later tonight. I had to postpone my build until tonight as I'm getting a couple new parts that I wanted to integrate into it. Should be up and running this weekend. Did you get down to SDRC last weekend. If so, how was it and sorry I missed you guys. Next time for sure!
It was pretty good. Figured some things out with compounds and sauces. Sorry we missed you but we will be there again for JBRL.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:04 PM   #2705
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Is the king headz front diff mount needed on this truck or is the stock one fine?
Also the torque rods are same front to rear?

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Old 03-29-2013, 12:45 PM   #2706
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Is the king headz front diff mount needed on this truck or is the stock one fine?
Also the torque rods are same front to rear?
The kings head diff mount isn't needed Cale. They do take some wobble outta your diff. I suppose it depends on how you keep up with your truck. Maintenance wise . If you like to get the most outta your parts the kh diff mount helps.Uf your the type that replaced your parts as they start to wear. You won't need them. You could look at it this way. The kh has two bearings in it right? Well it's just another bearing that could go bad.Its really a personal preference option.I have the front and rear on all three if my sctes. The drivetrain is a little smoother but it's not a must.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:47 PM   #2707
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Is the king headz front diff mount needed on this truck or is the stock one fine?
Also the torque rods are same front to rear?
I always thought the stock mounts were fine but the new HD diff cases take a lot of wobble out of the diffs everyone complained about but no one actually had a performance problem with.

Yes front and rear torque rods are the same.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:53 PM   #2708
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Yea i dont see the need really for the King Headz motor mount or the Dual bearing mount the HD diff cups. With HD lighten outdrives they take a ton of wobble out.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:01 PM   #2709
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Is anyone else using loctite on the battery hold downs ?
A trick Ryan and I have used is to get a 2mm shock spacer and put that over the front post. Then you can loctite that one down. I then only take off the rear thumb screw and swing the battery strap out of the way. I use the optional Carbon strap and don't use a spacer in rear and just snug down that screw. The tension in the strap will hold the screw in place. Makes for an easy and quick battery change out as only one thump screw is needed.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:16 PM   #2710
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I just bought 2.0 kit. I have both Tekin 4000 and 4600 motors. I see just about everyone is running the 4600. Is there any point in keeping the 4000?
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:23 PM   #2711
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I just bought 2.0 kit. I have both Tekin 4000 and 4600 motors. I see just about everyone is running the 4600. Is there any point in keeping the 4000?


The main reason why people like me and others run the 4600kv is because of the power it has to run on big outdoor tracks. The downside is they run a little warmer and more amps compared to the 4000kv. Ive never tried out the 4000kv but the 4600kv has a smooth powerband.

There is some guys who do run 4000kv motors with good success on big tracks.
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:45 PM   #2712
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If you run indoors on smaller tracks then it would be worthwhile for you to compare the two to see which you like better indoors.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:53 PM   #2713
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King Headz 2.0

I did this myself, but maybe this is the first wave of copy cats? Battery has been flipped forever, but I just did the drivetrain mod a few days ago. Spins real free the way it's lined up - will get a chance to run it this Saturday!
Nice...how balanced does it feel when you lift it?

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If you run indoors on smaller tracks then it would be worthwhile for you to compare the two to see which you like better indoors.
yes, the 4000 would be more suitable indoors as the Tekin 4600/Hobbywing 4700 was just waaaay to much for me so i sold the 4700 and have the HW 4000 now and def smoother and you can gear them alittle more
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:06 PM   #2714
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Yea i run the 4600kv indoors and outdoors and had to gear to a 40/13 to just get enough torque out of it. I have to go a little wider into tight turns to gain enough to hit the jumps so its a little bit of disvantage. Although i can get on power a bit harder because its a smooth powerband.

Theres only a couple of guys who run the 4600kv the others run 3800kv to 4000kv at my indoor track and if there a good driver they do have a advantage.

So if you race indoors do get a 3800kv or a 4000kv.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:15 PM   #2715
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These are good points. We do have a semi local indoor track that I will be running at and it's small so I will hold onto it. I bought a 2.0 and the guy is throwing in the 4600 so can't hurt to have 2 motor options!
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